cv joints?

So am I correct in saying that the (Clunk * clunk * clunk ) my passenger front hub is making when i turn my wheel full lock is a bad cv joint?

 

Someone please say no lol

So am I correct in saying that the (Clunk * clunk * clunk ) my passenger front hub is making when i turn my wheel full lock is a bad cv joint?

 

Someone please say no lol

 

Could be other things, but that's likely what it is. Have you looked to see if the boot is torn? Also, is it louder when you are at full lock and accelerating?

Hello;

Yes this is the likely culprit. I think a new one is around $100.00, a rebuilt $60.00, or go to a pull and pay for about $25.00. I keep a beady eye on my boots and if one tears the boot kit costs around $12.50. Once the grease flings out and the joint runs dry they are toast. Steven.

The first thing to make a clunking noise would be the CV joint (a bad wheel bearing could also cause the joint to go bad quicker than normal). But, I've never heard a bad wheel bearing make a clunking noise.

 

Get underneath, grab the axel, and try to shift it back and forth with some muscle. There should be almost no play whatsoever.

 

Get the passenger side wheel off the ground, and shift it with your hands at the 12 and 6 positions. Usually, with a bad bearing, there will be looseness in the steering and a wandering feeling while cruising.

 

Usually an axle will clunk when the wheels are turned and there is torque applied (i.e. pressing the throttle). Clunking at full lock may be the beginnings of a bad joint. When it gets really bad, it will start clunking in a straight line. And also, a boot isn't always torn when a CV goes bad.

Boots not torn and all other steering components are tight. There is lateral play in the passenger side half shaft and cv joint.

 

It only is noticable at full locks, never mild turns or in a straight line.. yet.

Yep. CV joint at the beginning of failure. You've got plenty of time before it goes. Still, get it replaced as soon as you can. I've used the ones from advance auto with no problem. They're like $70

I had figured.

 

Do you usually replace both sides at once?

And kenny, have you had luck just popping the axle nut and turning the steering wheel so there is clearance to pop out the half shaft? Or will I have to pull the 2 strut bolts?

I would love to know if there is a way to do it without pulling the strut bolts, since I'm going to have to do the other side soon, because I had to last time, but I had never done it before.

I had figured.

 

Do you usually replace both sides at once?

 

And kenny, have you had luck just popping the axle nut and turning the steering wheel so there is clearance to pop out the half shaft? Or will I have to pull the 2 strut bolts?

 

I have never replaced both sides at once. Just the one that was needed. That's not to say that it can't hurt to replace both, but I wouldn't.

 

Annnnnd honestly, it's not possible to remove the axle without removing anything. I do believe that I ONLY removed the top strut bolt, and loosened the bottom one. That allowed me to swing it down just the right way to remove everything.

Figured as much. Appreciate it dude!

Don't forget to check your front DIFF seals when replacing the front axles also... They like to leak over time and drip onto the hot cat converter and make a smelly burning gear oil scent that sucks lol. Anyways the seals are cheap from Subaru like 20 bucks or so, and the o rings are like 4 bucks and pretty easy to replace. The only advice I have is when removing the diff seal cap, make some marks so you can count your turns because you will want to put it exactly back in the spot it was since if its installed too tight you can put too much strain on the diff spider gears and possible explode it.