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Does the 2.5i have a PCV Valve?


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If you pull it off you'll know if it needs to be replaced or not. They aren't expensive and are easy to replace.

Current: 16 Crosstrek Premium w/ Eyesight & 05 Outback XT 5MT

Past Subies: 14 FXT Premium, 14 WRX hatch, 06 Legacy 2.5i SE 5MT, 98 Outback wagon

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I don't think they ever really *need* to be replaced. You can revitalize a sticky one by spraying carb cleaner inside and letting the oily gunk drain out. When it rattles, it's functional.

 

As far as I know, they're just metal inside... aka nothing to break or go wrong. They just get sticky.

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The only time I've ever HAD to replace one was in my 98 outback. We got it over the summer from a family member who didn't know how to maintain it. They dumped a couple grand into it at shops but the engine was still missing, it had a horrible shudder when up to any decent speed and had no power. It threw a CEL for the Valve and I had to replace that one. But that's it. The car is running good now BTW. 214k and counting

Current: 16 Crosstrek Premium w/ Eyesight & 05 Outback XT 5MT

Past Subies: 14 FXT Premium, 14 WRX hatch, 06 Legacy 2.5i SE 5MT, 98 Outback wagon

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The only reason I replace mine is because my legacy goes through 1qt-1.5qt's of oil over a 5k interval, and I'm convinced its being consumed through the pcv system. I'm hoping one time when I replace the pcv valve I'll get lucky, and there will be a redesigned valve that doesn't let this happen.
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The only reason I replace mine is because my legacy goes through 1qt-1.5qt's of oil over a 5k interval, and I'm convinced its being consumed through the pcv system. I'm hoping one time when I replace the pcv valve I'll get lucky, and there will be a redesigned valve that doesn't let this happen.

 

I'm convinced of that too, that's actually why I made this thread! I'm supicious it might be the cause, not valve seals or bad rings. It doesn't really smoke either which has me stumped.

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  • 2 weeks later...

What a b*tch this thing was! I did it last night. You need to remove the airbox torque chamber, tube, and disconnect the main harness mounting bracket just to be able to get a wrench in there! The PCV valve requires a 3/4" spanner. There is not much room to work down there at all, and removing the hose from the PCV valve was a fight in itself.

 

Mine was the original with 105,000mi on it. Totally frozen, and caked with oil deposits. Wouldn't rattle at all. I've been consuming a good bit of oil lately, so I'm hoping it's the culprit.

 

The replacement was $20 from autozone.:spin: Seems high.

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I am guessing your oil consumption will go down. A plugged PCV can be devastating to engines if not fixed.

 

I hope so. Could have been placebo effect, but the car did pull pretty nicely today - more than I expected. Could have been the cool air too. Who knows! :lol:

 

Won't be able to post impressions for a thousand miles or so though, especially given how inaccurate our dipsticks are.

 

"Stuck closed causes a slight power loss. The PCV valve has one major function and one minor side-benefit: it allows crankcase oil vapor to be burned instead of venting to atmosphere and the vacuum applied to the crankcase reduces crankcase pressure slightly. Pistons moving up-and-down pump crankcase air as wells as intake air, using horsepower to do so. Reducing the crankcase pressure reduces pumping losses."

 

Yay!

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I noticed a crazy misfire at low RPM yesterday, and found the culprit this morning. Check this out!

 

Video:

 

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/burnout8488/th_VID-20110101-00000.jpg

 

SOMEHOW, the PCV valve hose is sparking against my #2 spark plug wire. How the hell does a spark jump to rubber?!

 

I ended up zip-tying it to the metal torque-box support, away from the coil pack.

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I guess that makes sense, but still doesn't explain why sparks are transferring into a 100% rubber hose! It's only doing it because my friend and I were yanking on the tube, and probably deformed it to where it is closer to the coil pack now. In any case, I ziptied it back and its perfect now.

 

My MPG increased SIGNIFICANTLY after changing the PCV. I averaged 31.5mpg over 180mi with the cruise set yesterday. I usually only averaged 26-27mpg. Calculations were made using the trip computer which may not be 100% accurate, but the relative difference in mpg is still astonishing to me.

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  • 2 weeks later...

bump! how is the pcv doing? gas mileage? oil consumption? i think i need to do this asap.

 

where did you buy the PCV? oem or aftermarket?

 

fred beans has them for sale but it looks like its just the hose section?!? i'd imagine the actual pcv attaches to the bigger stubby hose, and then its screws into the engine block? those hose clamps look like a one time deal, i'll probably cut them and just get regular clamps.

 

http://www.fredbeansparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/1/0/10105ab790.jpg

 

heres an aftermarket one listed for $26.96. is this similar to what you used?...or did you get a whole hose section with it too?

 

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/images/product_images/thumbs200/beck_arnley/045-0351.jpg

 

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Subaru/Legacy/Beck_Arnley/PCV_Valve/2008/2-dot-5i_Special_Edition/4_Cyl_2-dot-5L/045-0351.html?tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain

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