Engine cranks but will not start.

So today my car (95 LS EJ22E 4EAT) decided it was not going to start. It's not the first time this has happened but at least in the past all I did was wait for a period of time (no longer than a day) and it would start up again. I'm really not liking this and would like to get to the bottom of it. Here's what I'm experiencing...

Engine turns over, fuel pump is running, timing belt is good, I'd assume I'm getting spark but I will be picking up a tester tomorrow to be certain, battery is only a few months old, will not start with a jump, all electronics work, cranks strong. I don't know if this has anything to do with it but sometimes if the car is in park and I turn the key I get absolutely nothing but when I shift into neutral it starts right up.

So from what I've read I want to say that the ignition switch may be going/gone bad. Anybody else agree or have any wisdom to share? Thanks ahead of time!

Hello;

The number one cause is fuel issues. I would have the fuel pressure checked. Just because you can hear the pump run does not mean it's putting out enough pressure for the injectors. In my case the pump was good but the filters were plugged solid. The inhibitor switch (neutral safety) will have to be replaced in the future. Steven.

The switch that monitors where you have shifted the lever (Shift Lever Position Switch) is actually on the passenger side of the tranny. This switch adds a different resistor into the circuit depending on whether the inside lever is in Park, Rev, Neutral, Drive, 2nd or 1st. This switch, must be mounted in precisely the correct position for it to report correctly to the engine computer and the TCU. There is a hole in the switch housing and a hole in the transmission side case that line up perfectly when the inside lever is in neutral. If it is lined up, you should be able to insert a 5/32 drill bit though the hole in the switch and right into the hole in the case. If you can't, you can loosen (but not remove) the two-10 mm bolts of the switch and rotate the switch (it will only move 1/4" either way at the most) until the drill bit can be slid into the case also.

 

I have a 4EAT on an engine stand and can take a picture with my phone if you need it.

 

EDIT: I'm sorry, I mis-read your post. Disregard this post if the engine is turning over but not starting. Your next diagnostic is to check for spark while cranking and then like snederhiser said, check for fuel pressure with the ignition switch in the on/run position and also while cranking.

 

Tom

Great info, thank you guys. I will certainly consider replacing. The fuel pump and filter soon. There are plenty of both at the junk yard that look almost new so why not. SHO if you don't mind getting a pic of that I would greatly appreciate it for future reference.

Just a little update. I have a suspicion that the humid and cold conditions of the engine bay were to blame. It has been cold and rainy/snowy here lately and when I was trying to get it to start I noticed that most of the components under the hood had a good bit of condensation on them. Today it was sunny, breezy and almost 60 degrees out and after having all day to dry out and warm up it cranked right up without issue! I'm going to take a good look at all the wiring/hoses and see if I find any suspect areas.

Hello;

I would think that all of the moisture had an effect on the spark plug wires. You might consider replacing these. Be sure to use dielectric grease on the inside of the boots and outside where they plug into the head. Take the coil off and clean off all the dirt and carbon deposits (squeaky clean). This should help a great deal, Steven.

Matt,

 

I suck at the hosting site stuff. I can email them to you if you'd like. Thomas (at sign) fiberspec.com

 

Tom

Wires are less than a year old but I did not put any grease on them. I'll stop at the store and grab some this weekend.

Hello;

When electronic ignition was introduced, replacement wires always came with a small packet of dielectric (silicone)(plumbers) grease. This keeps the spark contained and keeps the boots from welding on to the spark plugs. Funny how this well known fact has been forgotton, Steven.

Oh well I have plenty of plumbers grease at work! Thanks for saving me a few bucks.

Been researching for a while my 98 Legacy is having the same problem and I can't even find where to check the fuel pressure, the only thing I've tried is to disconnect the mass airflow sensor to see if it would start then, it sounded like it tried to hit but still wouldn't start, my car was running great brought it home one day parked it went out two days later nothing turns over but won't start.

I was wondering did the OP got his problem fixed and also if someone could post a fuel pump tutorial, if ones available here also if someone has a Pic of where the fuel pressure checkpoint is I can't find it.

Thanks so much in advance I will keep searching but I will check back here is well. PS I hope this is not considered hijacking a thread since I'm having the same problem and this is a relatively new thread I thought I'd give a shot thanks again!

Funny that you bumped this thread today. (no worries about threadjacking) I have been able to get it to start most of the time with some hesitation. Last week I got a CEL and when I drove it today it was still there. So after scanning I came up with a P0335 (Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction) and a PO420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold) I haven't done any research yet but I have a feeling that it's probably the sensor but the failing cat caused the CEL to show up when the CPS malfunction did not. I don't know that for sure, just an educated guess at this point.

Funny that you bumped this thread today. (no worries about threadjacking) I have been able to get it to start most of the time with some hesitation. Last week I got a CEL and when I drove it today it was still there. So after scanning I came up with a P0335 (Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction) and a PO420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold) I haven't done any research yet but I have a feeling that it's probably the sensor but the failing cat caused the CEL to show up when the CPS malfunction did not. I don't know that for sure, just an educated guess at this point.

Thanks for the reply I've been planning on getting a code reader to see if there is a code because there wasn't one or least there was no CEL before it stopped running I guess I'll go pick up a hanes Manual, or something I mean I have a fuel pressure gauge but I can't find the check valve connection.

I had the same issue with mine last summer. Cranked strong, at times sounded like it was going to start but wouldn't fire up. No CEL. I was told by a technician, (without hesitation), "Crank sensor, real common on those". I replaced it and it has been fine since.

I had the same issue with mine last summer. Cranked strong, at times sounded like it was going to start but wouldn't fire up. No CEL. I was told by a technician, (without hesitation), "Crank sensor, real common on those". I replaced it and it has been fine since.

Thanks for the reply I don't usually like to just through parts at proplem But I've called around and there pretty cheap so its worth a try . Thanks I let you know if it works!

Hello;

Get a 8mm (5/16") fuel tee and a couple pieces of fuel line. Disconnect the line from the output of the fuel filter and plug-in the tee. Then hookup the tester to the remaining port. Should be around 36psi, 60psi with the return line clamped. Steven.

I had the same issue with mine last summer. Cranked strong, at times sounded like it was going to start but wouldn't fire up. No CEL. I was told by a technician, (without hesitation), "Crank sensor, real common on those". I replaced it and it has been fine since.

Steven YOU ARE THE MAN! first of all what a PITA I had to use a10mm open end to get the bolt out nothing else I have would fit in there but once I got it to turn a couple turns I sprayed some kurol oil another turn or two the bolt came out by hand. Then the real fun part almost broke the old one getting it out, it was rusted into the head or block from whatever that was it was a pain but I finally got plugged everything in hit the key it was turning over kind of slow but still trying to fire I'm thinking Oh crap, but I thought I'd throw my booster on the battery and she fired run up!

Thanks for the great advice going for a test run now.

Well I'm back from my test run and it ran well stopped and aired up the tires, see the cars been sitting for a couple of months because I had shoulder surgery and couldn't work on it anyway plus it was the middle of winter here heck it still winter here it got down to the low twenties last night. But it warmed up today so I had been researching to find out what could be wrong with my LG T, once again you guys came through! Got a little less than half a tank of fuel in it I'm going to run that out, filler up and run some fuel system cleaner through it. Like I said thanks again. By the way that's a good idea on checking the fuel pressure seems like to me there should be a factory point somewhere where it could be checked, I ordered a used haynes' Manual off Amazon should be here tomorrow I'm going to go ahead and change the fuel filter while I'm at since it's been sitting for a while.

Like I said you guys are the greatest thanks again!