Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

new motor 800 miles later gotta rebuild


Recommended Posts

Hey everyone well don't know how to start this one since I myself am at a loss for words. 4 years ago my 05 lgt had rod knock and eventually failed and it sat until a month ago. I was on a budget so the local shop had a 2010 sti short block that supposedly had 25k miles on it and rebuilt 05 sti heads no warranty. so thats what i went with for 3500 bucks after it was all said done my old parts and some new ones,tune,fluids,gaskets and so forth total cost was $5100 bucks. not bad in my opinion. so now here is the heart wrenching knee breaking part. after 834 miles and about a month later of having my car i love more then my girl lol. i did two WOT track like pulls with a buddy at lunch time showing off. so after work i get in start the car and woof tons of smoke. on the way home i have a check engine light and hesitation in idle at lights and it was getting worse by the time i got to the shop shut the car off waited for the shop owner to be done with his customers which took about 45 min we talked and i told him what happened and he checked the codes and he got a cyl 4 missfire which is the hottest cyl. and couple trans codes which im not worrying about but this is the trans codes p0700,p0725. oh forgot to tell this too. im boosting 25lbs which is alot but it actually went to 27lbs...i think it ran lean and detonated and ive got a cracked ring landing my injectors where at there limit already with e85 so there was nothing left but air. he is gonna do a compression test to see whats up by monday. so thats it in a nut shell this is the start and background information for my build i thought it was necessary for this info. if you want to know the mods and dyno run and so forth look for my posts on the dyno/time slips page. any insight or comments, corrections or suggestions on how to proceed please feel free. i kinda know what i want to do but i just wasted tons of money that i didnt have in the first place on this motor.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 88
  • Created
  • Last Reply
  • Moderators

A budget build to run e85 is just a recipe for disaster. Post your mod list. From the sound of it you wasted money trying to do things cheap when you should have just done a stock build to get the car back on the road for as cheap as reasonably possible.

 

Hopefully it's a smaller issue than you think :/

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gt spec 2 bolt equal length headers,

Grimmspeed ext waste gate upipe,

Nvidia catless downpipe,

Greedy sp2 catless exhaust,

Tgv deletes,

Perrin big maf inlet,

Tial 38mm ext waste gate 1bar

Id1000 injectors,

Hta71 8cm,

Hks 3 bov,

Perrin tm,

Grimmspeed 3 port boost controller,

Aem cai,

E85,

Walbro 255,

2008 built sti short block w/stock PnP 05 sti heads

Killerb oil pickup,

Forced performance oil fees line,

25lbs boost,

Hex mods valve body,

Defi link unit 2 boost and ext temp gauges,

Aem uego wideband,

Je pistons,carrilo rods,Je proseal hg,King bearings

Arp headstuds,

Tein flex coilovers,

Slotted and drilled rotors w/hps pads

Link to comment
Share on other sites

also i do not know why it over boosted that would be nice to know. i thought 25 psi is to much on a stock block but the shop told me it would be fine. i think he was wrong. im not going in there pointing fingers at all he is a reputable engine builder it was not his fault it over boosted or even if that is what happened this is all speculation until he does the compression test.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

so talked to the shop yesterday the guy hasnt gotten the chance to compression test the motor yet but heres something intresting he said the tuned it for 20lbs of boost and to have boost cut at 23lbs. the very night that i drove my car home after the tune my gauge was reading 25lbs. i remember telling him when i went back to the shop a couple days later that i thought 25lbs was to much but he said its safe. but in the conversation yesterday he said he dont remember that.....so he is saying their is something wrong with my wastegate because i shouldnt be getting 25lbs of boost. im feeling pretty irratqted with all this.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You may want to if you can, send a copy of the MAP to a trusted tuner like http://www.tuningalliance.com and ask him if he can tell if the tune was safe.

 

I'm not sure what he can or will be able to do but it's worth a shot.

 

Mike is one of the best in the country with these cars.

 

 

 

Also you can never know what your boost gauge is reading unless you know it was calibrated correctly. You just hope the factory did a good job when they built it. Do you have a log from the engine ?

 

I would think with that turbo you have to have a pretty great tune on a stock short block.

 

I was told years ago when I began to play with boosting a Honda civic, "its all in the tune".

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yea im not sure if ut was reading correctly i just assumed it was since it was reading 21lbs on my last tune and thats what it was tuned for. its a defi boost gauve with the link boost contoller 2 so its a good unit...its old but still good i believe.

 

also are you speaking of mike botti? thats who i planned on getting the tune from in the first place but i just went with the guy that tunes at the shop because he said he could do a good job.

 

i dont have any means of pulling a copy of the tune from my car since i dont have the vag com cable or the cobb v3. and i dont know that i would get anywhere with this guy even uf u did proove it was tuned for 25lbs.

 

after this is all said and done i will be getting etuned by him i didnt know he changed hi name tho.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nope, Mike Kinsman of www.tuningalliance.com He's one of the best in the country. Really. he's that good.

 

If your good with a lap top you need to get a cable and download romraider and learn how to datalog and get with TA. Your car we'll be very happy you did.

 

Both my cars are on Cobb AP V2. I'm very lucky as Mike is a 10 minute drive from me.

 

Tell Mike I sent you, he'll take great care of you.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gt spec 2 bolt equal length headers,

Grimmspeed ext waste gate upipe,

Nvidia catless downpipe,

Greedy sp2 catless exhaust,

Tgv deletes,

Perrin big maf inlet,

Tial 38mm ext waste gate 2bar I need to change it to a 1bar

Id1000 injectors,

Hta71 8cm,

Hks 3 bov,

Perrin tm,

Grimmspeed 3 port boost controller,

Aem cai,

E85,

Walbro 255,

2008 stock rebuilt sti short block w/stock rebuilt 05 sti heads

Killerb oil pickup,

Forced performance oil fees line,

25lbs boost,

Hex mods valve body,

Defi link unit 2 boost and ext temp gauges,

 

 

That gives you close to 400whp? That's beyond the limits of the stock block. No margin of error there. Hell, I cracked a ringland somewhere between stock and stage 2....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

heres the dyno plot its hard to read on my phone but on the computer i can see it well. is there a way to see the boost? he had the tuner in here on sat i guess looking at his tune which is kinda funny since he dont ever come here on a sat. im curious now if he changed my map somehow? but yea on his mustang dyno i was like 386wtq and 3xx something on hp.

attachment.png.8695e14393174e818a791a53065e536f.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think your first post contained possibly the longest run-on sentence I have ever seen in my life. All I saw was a capitalized "Hey" at the beginning a . at the end, the rest was just a Konigsegg going by at 200mph.

 

Good luck with your issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

heres the dyno plot its hard to read on my phone but on the computer i can see it well. is there a way to see the boost? he had the tuner in here on sat i guess looking at his tune which is kinda funny since he dont ever come here on a sat. im curious now if he changed my map somehow? but yea on his mustang dyno i was like 386wtq and 3xx something on hp.

 

 

386 on the stock block is pretty freaking high. Not too surprised that something went kaboom at those power levels. For around $900 more you could have gone with a built engine capable of supporting your HP goals.

 

cyl 4 is at 50 percent. im taking my car home and doin a leakdown

 

Usually we recommend a compression and leakdown because just a compression alone can hide issues. I think you already know there is an issue (especially with #4 at 50%). Time to start tearing into the engine....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ill put engine pic posts in here. oil on the turbo to ic flange and in ic. just some blow by i plan on getting an AoS.

 

 

ok day 2: motor is just about ready to be pulled just have to take the bolts off the motor mounts and bell housing. then disconnect the fuel lines, take the exhaust off all the way up to the turbo and take the coolant lines off from the firewall.

20160418_190132.thumb.jpg.832fb39f8ee6f62d2a948f2274421275.jpg

20160419_203714.thumb.jpg.08661502d665d0cc5b9d0e6c704a5573.jpg

20160419_203651.thumb.jpg.a051a25520d4aec82775a7f9cfb45e5c.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok so my last motor build i used je pistons and bored and honed the block to 100mm depending on how bad the cylinder walls are i will be doin the the same, but is that enough? are the rods good for alot of power. i was thinking about 1 step better cams too. but all in all i want this thing bullet proof and get 450 to 500 to the wheels so if i can get some direction on parts i dont already have to get me there or need to uphrade please let me know. i am getting bigger injectors i just dont know how big and do i need top feed fuel rails for that and a different tgv deletes?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like your going to need better rods too. In post 10 I gave you the link to TA. Your going to want to talk with Mike and get it right the first time, this time around.

 

Tell him what your goals are and ask him for guidance. He can get you most anything you need.

 

Another good source is Underdog, PM him, if you want a second opinion, he can get you most any part too.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great, he's busy but I'm sure he'll find time to reply.

 

I've a lot, I feel so lucky to have him close to where I live. I'm 61y/o but have been playing with cars since I was 16 y/o. My son and I built the Civic (avatar) with a 1.6L and ran 9.85 with and he won a Wally at an NHRA Sport Compact Event back in 2007. So I have clue and known enough and who to go to for the right answers.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I got the motor out I drained the oil and it was all brown so now at that point I am think great is my cylinder wall cracked I have coolant in the oil. I took the head off of the drivers side where I had bad compression and it seems that all it was is a bad head gasket.

 

I'm gonna replace both head gaskets and lap the heads and short block and drop some forged pistons in it and do a leak down to make sure all is well.

 

What pistons can I drop in without any machining having to be done and do I need to hone the cylinder walls for the new pistons?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use