DIY Cutting Board Speaker Spacers

I wrapped up installing some new speakers in my car today. After researching all the options for speaker spacers, they were either too expensive or required drilling. Rather than drilling/hacking them in, I figured I could make some spacers that would allow for plug and play install.

 

I picked up two cutting boards from Ocean State Job lot for cheap (they are 1/2 inch thick). I really like HDPE since it is easy to cut, not sharp, is not very toxic/messy and will never rot/fall apart.

 

 

I am starting with the rear speaker spacers first. I used the template that came with my speakers to make a basic shape for the new speakers to mount to.

 

 

 

I cut it all out with a (imitation) dremel tool with a cutting bit. This takes some practice to do well. I think next time I will buy a roto zip.

 

 

 

Now I set in the OEM speaker to trace the mounting points. The rears are both the same so you need only one speaker to make the template. The front speakers are different so make sure you trace both separately. Don't forget to make the screw holes as I forgot in the photo.

 

 

 

 

Added some screw holes and did a little sanding to touch it up.

 

 

Now for the screw holes for the new speakers, again using the template.

 

 

 

Now for the front speakers...

 

 

 

 

 

I am using a small nut and bolt to attach each speaker to the mounting point. To make things flush I countersinked the holes with a countersink of all things.

 

 

 

These things are really solid!

 

 

I picked up some waterproof weather stripping to run a seal around the back of the spacer to make it seal with the door. The door is not an even surface.

 

 

The rear doors installed. I found some longer screws at the hardware store that match the thread of the OE ones.

 

 

 

 

And the fronts:

 

 

wow, thanks for the write up. Ill have to give this a try

Great write up ... thanks for sharing!!

 

are you running an amp for those ? if so, how did you run you speaker wires?

Great write up ... thanks for sharing!!

 

are you running an amp for those ? if so, how did you run you speaker wires?

 

Right now they are running off a Kenwood DDX514 HU. I chose the Alpine Type-S speakers because I have run them in the past on a HU and I knew I would be running them that way for a bit. An amp is in my future. I kept it simple this time because doing this install in the 30 degree New England weather took long enough. Once I have access to a shop I plan to install a 5 channel amp, run wires, sound deaden and build a fiberglass sub enclosure to flush mount in the trunk/tail lamp access area. I figure running wires will be easy when ripping the entire interior out . My intent was to do this to stay sane over the winter. I have a feeling I have all ready gone nuts.

Very nice job on these. I made a set of custom ones for a member on here to fit a Nissan and I hated working with the HPDE. PVC was a lot easier (for me) to work with.

 

Those look very good. The roto-zip is a good option.

 

Anyone looking to do them at home, don't be afraid to give them a shot. For those who lack the tools, materials, and/or skills...

 

VVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVVV

I wrapped up installing some new speakers in my car today. After researching all the options for speaker spacers, they were either too expensive or required drilling. Rather than drilling/hacking them in, I figured I could make some spacers that would allow for plug and play install.

 

I picked up two cutting boards from Ocean State Job lot for cheap (they are 1/2 inch thick). I really like HDPE since it is easy to cut, not sharp, is not very toxic/messy and will never rot/fall apart.

 

Nice use of the material Malt Beverage. This stuff can be a great way to go for door baffle construction. The only warning I have as far as working with this stuff is make sure what you buy is temperature stable. If you are unsure, run it through the dishwasher. If it warps, then I would advise not putting it in the vehicle. For reference, all of the cutting boards available at the local Ikea were not temperature stable, and could even be deformed with only hot water from the tap. Otherwise, a better option than throwing unsealed MDF into the door of a car.

Great point about the material being temp stable. Next run I will absolutely buy proper material from a plastic vendor to ensure not only it is temp stable but also uniform in thickness. I found my cutting boards where about 1/8" thinner by the handle. Not a big deal, but there is not a lot of room to work with and 1/2" thick was cutting it close as is. I actually had to take the front door speakers out and reorient them to avoid the connectors from hitting a bracket that holds the window on track. The rear windows do not go down all the way so speaker depth was no problem.

Thanks for the write-up!

 

Did you use the Alpine component 'S' speakers up front and the co-axials in the rear? If so, how did you deal with the tweeters? Are you running these off your stock HU?

 

How does it all sound???

I did use the components in front. I basically gutted the stock tweeter from the plastic mount and used back to back tape to stick the s-type tweeter on the mount. I then used the included foam to make a nice seal between the tweeter and the door panel. I am running them off a Kendood DDX514 HU. It sounds pretty good for being a lower budget setup. I didn't take too many photos of the tweeters since they were an afterthought that ended up going together really well. Here are some pics.

 

 

 

Another point, next time I would go more than 1/2 inch on the mounts. At 1/2 inch, if I put the s-types in the wrong orientation, the window regulator will take them out (found out the hard way and had to rebuild the connectors on the speaker). The right way is a tight but perfect fit.

Another point, next time I would go more than 1/2 inch on the mounts. At 1/2 inch, if I put the s-types in the wrong orientation, the window regulator will take them out (found out the hard way and had to rebuild the connectors on the speaker). The right way is a tight but perfect fit.

That is why I go with 3/4" spacers...no worry there.