my car is getting a new shortblock and turbo

took the 05legacygt to subaru and they are putting in a new shortblock 11mm oil pump, dw 740cc injectors, warlboro 255, catless up, dp, and 3in exhaust, lastly the turbo is being sent to BNR to have the HTA68 TD05H conversion. Any opinions or suggestions?

What Subaru dealer is doing this?If you are tossing in a new shortblock, why are you doing so? What are your goals? OP you don't have enough info in your post for us to formulate an opinion.The only thing I can really say is - If I were replacing my shortblock I would probably do it with an sti block (stock pistons, etc - they all good for plenty of power for my goals, I not know what you want).

 

Are you planning on running e85? If so, bigger injectors are in order with that turbo (MSprank already found this out for you).

 

Anyway, sounds sick. I am jealous and cant wait for pics/video! Have you already ordered parts? If not I would suggest the following over ANYTHING else...

 

ERZ/CNT Downpipe - catted or catless. Very good quality. Paying more will not get you a better product.

 

Racer X FMIC - if you are going to toss a FMIC in the car this is the one. Itsme has them in stock now and the install does not require a bunch of hacking. You could have oem airbox, battery, fogs, bumper beam, etc.

 

Hope in addition to all your power goodies you are doing:

 

Hawk HPS pads

Summer Tires

coilovers (or at least koni+swift/eibach/msi)

sways (desperately need myself and am under 300hp!)

 

GLWbuild!!! KEEP US UPDATED!

currently the car already has the catless dp and up and exhuast3in. the subaru dealership in St Albans WV. I am sending the turbo to BNR next week to get done with the conversion. and will everything bolt up when using the sti shortblock? My reason for asking this is because ive found some say yes and some say no

If you are tossing in a new shortblock, why are you doing so?

What are your goals?

Are you planning on running e85? !

I'd recommend not having a dealer do the work.

 

Just because they work at a Subaru dealer, doesn't mean they know what they are doing.

^ +1 not having the dealer do it.

Swapping an engine as a unit doesn't require specialized skill. If they were rebuilding it then yes, I'd have a shop do it. Same goes with all the other parts; they're just bolt-on accessories that install just like stock.

 

FWIW, my car has zero handling or braking mods to go with the horsepower. I'll soon do something about the brakes. I didn't really have issues at Stage 2 but now the car adds speed far easier than it removes it. I'll also do some suspension mods eventually, at least sways & shocks/springs. I just want less lean in the turns and less squat under acceleration. The way it is now it's almost comical any time I go WOT.

The way it is (oem brakes/suspension) it's almost comical any time I go WOT.

 

^nuff said

 

same experience x2

then would you all recommend just going with the stock set up with catless up dp and 3in exhaust and cobb stage 2 tune with act street clutch/streetlite flywheel then just do suspension mods? since its at subaru and getting a 1 year warrenty

then down the road if i keep the car do more modifications

You should note. That 1 year warranty is only on LABOR. If the motor blows, that's on you.

 

Most good shops will give you a labor warranty.

then would you all recommend just going with the stock set up with catless up dp and 3in exhaust and cobb stage 2 tune with act street clutch/streetlite flywheel then just do suspension mods? since its at subaru and getting a 1 year warrenty

 

Holy s**t dude how many times do I have to ask, WHAT ARE YOUR GOALS FOR THE CAR?????????

 

No one can properly give you advice when we dont have any idea what you want. Sure I can tell you what I did and what was right for me and why, if that is what you really want to know but what is right for me may not be right for you. I don't want you driving "my" car unless your goals are the same as mine

 

Do you dragrace? Roadrace? Never race? Just want to scare friends? AutoX? Sometimes, never, maybe? Long roadtrips or never? Long commute or not at all? Mostly city bumper to bumper or do you drive in wide open spaces that love big turbos???

 

Too many different ways to go.

 

If you don't know what you want, yes, oem turbo/block/stage 2 dial in suspension and keep researching where to go from there. A full proper stage 2 is needed to go stage 3 and make use of a bigger turbo anyway.

Goals are for LOSERS!!!!

sorry for not answering the question properly. I like the power but want better handling from the car and it is a daily driver i bought it in november 2009 with 81000 miles and since then i put catless dp,up, and 3in exhaust with a cobb stage 2 tune the shortblock went 3 weeks ago with 103,012 miles on it. So Id say really what i need may not be what i want which means i want handling and dependiability with power when needed

 

- Also I want to atleast put in a new clutch ive been looking at act street series/ with a streetlite flywheel

 

- just curious what is a proper stage 2

 

- i like car shows and curvy roads and dont run from a dig

 

-also have been looking into brake rotors

midslik,

 

Don't mind the attitude certain members give you, they have good intent I'm sure.

 

You can do a lot of searching on here and learn a lot but also confuse yourself. You've come to the right place to ask for guidance! It sounds to me that your setup will be really nice. With an open source tune/road tune I think you'll be happy with the 300 - 325 hp you'll produce. Consider this a lot esp. on a high mileage but strong tranny.

 

If you're having the shop do the work, ask them to install some pistons. I'm afraid of the land rings on stock pistons (even on STI pistons). My buddy and I just had engine failure on low mileage motors because of the shitty pistons. We went with wiseco pistons kits. You're looking at 480shipped overnight. Stockers do not like boost and we're seeing more and more 08+ pistons eat it. A new short block is going to most likely have these pistons. Also, I think a rebuilt block is the way to go if you've got a good builder. Subaru tolerances are too tight because of cold start emissions etc. Its causing exhaust valve problems, ring land and anti-friction coating problems on the internals. A good rebuild will take care of this stuff, then again, its a high mileage block so it could get to be more trouble than its worth. It depends on what you want to do. New crank, rods and bearings are good insurance.... but got to replace the pistons. While motor is out - do TGV deletes for a cheap (estimated) 15hp and lightweight pully. Buy the Gates timing belt kit from Fred Beans while you're at it. Comes with new water pump, gates tbelt pulleys, tensioner and gaskets etc. Don't be tempted to go with a cheaper company.

 

You're going to make substantial power so i would definitely look at braking. GT breaks are much better if you upgrade to SS lines and some nice aggressive pads. I went the brembo route and love it but it's more expensive than practical to be honest. GT breaks can do a lot with the proper upgrade. If you're going to be pushing the car a lot, I'd pick up some centric or Napa premium rotors (if you want to get away cheap) and call it a day. Especially if you're going with metallic pads (which will wear the pads). You can always upgrade later.

 

Sways - I'd upgrade sway bars... I went with 25F/25R Perrin. I think the thicker the better esp. I like the slight over steer I get... reminiscent of the RWD cars I grew up on. Strut tower bar helps a little too.

 

Rallitek lowering springs helped lower my center of gravity - they're fun and a cheap option. They give the car a nice even stance. I'm partial to the Ralliteks but any spring of your choice will help handling but watch the ride quality.

 

DO THE GROUP N MOUNTS. I couldn't believe how awesome and solid the power transfer is over stock =)

 

The over all message here I guess is that I feel handling and braking are just as important, if not more important as making power. I also have the RacerX FMIC and Love it. I've done a few installs now so I can give you tips when you're ready. I get 'em nice and even =)

 

I'd be happy to give you details if you're interested - just PM.

very nice appreciate the details through the dealership the stock shortblock is $2100 where would you get the pistons and how hard are tgv deletes to do?

I called http://www.maperformance.com for Wiseco pistons. Call them directly to get the best price. Also, it should only take the mechanic about 30 min to replace the pistons while its still on the crate. I would definitely say pistons are a must. Search "land ring failure".

 

TGV deletes can be easy or hard to do. Search the how to on nasioc. While the motor is apart, you might as well do them. I have some tips and pointers and can explain better over the phone if you'd like to call me to get my perspective. PM me and we'll start there.

Don't mind the attitude certain members give you, they have good intent I'm sure.

 

^small peepee?

 

OP if you want to do a built motor you can consider pistons but you should definately read about having aftermarket pistons. They are not universally the everything solution that they seem to be for a DD for everyone.

 

They are not all made to do the same things are stock pistons. 300-325hp is easily doable on a stock block and get another 100k out of it if you want. Members on the forum have had great luck with stock blocks and bad luck. People have had great luck with built motors and bad luck. I am lukewarm about built motors (or tons of power) for DD reliability. Guys like MSprank and LittleBlueGt roll around with tons of power because they are constantly logging and working on their cars. If that is what you are into, it could be great!!!

 

Check out this stickied thread about forged pistons for instance:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/those-you-considering-aftermarket-forged-pistons-130635.html?t=130635&highlight=aftermarket+pistons

 

If you want a bult motor, 08legacy08 is absolutely right - this is the time to commit! I guess what you really need to ask yourself is how much money you want to spend. I think that you can get 100k out of a stock motor with 300-325hp with just bolt ons and a good tune. If you are considering the block, now is the time to do it tho'!

$2100 for a stock STi shortblock? That dealer is taking you for a ride man. Get out while you can.

 

Just pistons is a great option. The motor will be noisier, but that's par for the mod-course.

 

DO NOT HALF ASS a piston install. You can't just drop them in in 30 minutes and call it good. That's foolish. Nothing is right straight from the box. Pistons aren't a "swap and drop" item. The block needs to be measured, the right size pistons ordered, rings properly cut and installed. It takes more than 30 minutes if you want it done right, and I wouldn't trust a dealership to do it. Of all the technicians at a dealership, probably only 1 of them has ever built a motor, and it probably wasn't a Subaru motor.

 

Do it right and you'll have a quiet motor that'll last a hundred thousand easy miles. Do it wrong, and you'll have pistons knocking around so badly that the car will think it's constantly det'ing.

 

I would strongly suggest taking the car away from the dealership. They will warranty the labor, not the parts and that does you absolutely no good. Any failure will undoubtedly be blamed on the parts you've had installed.

Can you use a STI short block in a Legacy?

The pistons sound like a good possibility and yes and no to the sti from what ive been told

and now I dont think imgoing for a built power house since it is my daily driver. No matter how nice it would be i do drive the car too much considering in 6months i put over 23,000 miles on the car

That's too bad, it would seem that a STI block would be a good compromise between a regular Legacy engine and a fully built engine.

yep if only i knew the answer before subaru got the car

that and subaru knew if it would and not say that it would be outrageous if a problem came up