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Getting a good trans fluid reading


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I am having a hard time getting a good reading on the trans fluid in the 97 Outback. I check it on a warmed up trans that has been driven a while.

 

The trans fluid looks clear - pinkish, not the red that I am accustomed to seeing on a stick. And that makes it kind of difficult to see just where on the stick the fluid level resides.

 

I'm wondering if it is too full because it looks like the clear - pinkish fluid is above the hot line. Or is it too low and I am seeing remnants of splashing fluid.

 

I would just drain it and re-fill with new fluid but at 10 quarts it gets a bit pricey.

 

I was at the parts store and had the one clerk come out and check my reading, he commented on the clear look to the fluid and thought it was above the hot line.

 

I did drain a gallon and re-fill with two quarts, drove it and it looked like the fluid was at the low reading. Put another quart in and I get the fuzzy reading that may or may not be above the hot line.

 

I think I liked the shifting better after removing the gallon and putting the two quarts back in it.

 

If the fluid was red and not clear-pinkish it would be easier to get a good reading.

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first, check both sides of the dip stick.

the lower reading is more accurate.

 

second, after you pull out the dip stick, wait.

wait a while for what ever fluid that may be in the tube to drain back down.

then reinsert the dip stick and pull back out.

 

third, check the level cold with the engine off, just to see if you are in the ball park.

 

and finally, some one suggested sticking the dip stick in ice cold water while waiting for the fluid to settle. this may make it easier to read on the stick. i have not tried it so i do not know.

 

as for color, wipe the stick on a clean WHITE rag to see the true color.

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Thanks.

 

I always thought that you read the trans dip stick right away but leaving it idle for awhile for the fluid to run down the tube might give me a better reading on the Subbie.

 

I was thinking of cold with the engine off, just to see what the fluid looks like and a ball park idea of where it is on the stick.

 

On my Jag when I turn the dipstick I get different readings. I always thought it was weird how turning the dipstick gave a different reading.

 

I have a Caddie and the oil dip stick reading end is dark brown. Dark brown is not a good color when you are trying to see where the oil is on the tip. You have to look for reflection of light off the wet part. Dark brown.....what were they thinking?!?!!

 

 

 

first, check both sides of the dip stick.

the lower reading is more accurate.

 

second, after you pull out the dip stick, wait.

wait a while for what ever fluid that may be in the tube to drain back down.

then reinsert the dip stick and pull back out.

 

third, check the level cold with the engine off, just to see if you are in the ball park.

 

and finally, some one suggested sticking the dip stick in ice cold water while waiting for the fluid to settle. this may make it easier to read on the stick. i have not tried it so i do not know.

 

as for color, wipe the stick on a clean WHITE rag to see the true color.

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I find mine really hard to read when hot. When cold it is easy to read im on the cold full mark. When hot it seems like its barely on the dipstick which shouldnt be right cause the fluid should expand when hot. I might just drain it again and refill.
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Hm? In that case I'll drain and re-fill. The parts store and my Haynes manual says it holds 10 quarts. Looking at the Haynes again it says 10 quarts after an overhaul. TO me that would mean a totally empty case.

 

Under changing fluid, the Haynes doesn't say how much will be used to refill. It just says to add a little at a time and keep checking the dip stick.

 

The day I drain a gallon before inserting the plug, the force of the exiting stream of fluid made it seem like there was a lot more that would have dame out.

 

If it is only 4 quarts, I'll do it just because I don't know when it was done last. If it is 10 quarts....I might pass on it.

 

A drain and fill isn't 10qts its closer to 4qts. They can be tricky to read but just take multiple readings.
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the safest way is to drain the pan and pour it into an empty gallon jug. then pour the same amount of new fluid into a matching empty jug. and then pour that amount back in to the trans. that way you are replacing the exact amount you are draining. this works perfectly if you know the trans started with the right amount of fluid.

 

when ever i have done it i have never gotten more than 3.5 qts out during a drain and fill.

 

rumor has it if you elevate the front end, park on a hill, drive up on ramps, set on jack stands, you will drain more.

 

good luck.

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I went for the drain on a hill method and drained 6 quarts.

 

I started the entire thing because it appeared the PO had over filled the trans. So when I installed fluid, I did a bit at a time. I am not at 5 quarts on the re-fill but by the time I am done adding a half quart at a time I will be close to 5 quarts. So it seems that the PO had over filled by about a quart.

 

The fluid is now easier to read because I am getting a much better red color on the stick.

 

the safest way is to drain the pan and pour it into an empty gallon jug. then pour the same amount of new fluid into a matching empty jug. and then pour that amount back in to the trans. that way you are replacing the exact amount you are draining. this works perfectly if you know the trans started with the right amount of fluid.

 

when ever i have done it i have never gotten more than 3.5 qts out during a drain and fill.

 

rumor has it if you elevate the front end, park on a hill, drive up on ramps, set on jack stands, you will drain more.

 

good luck.

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