Which fuses?

I was driving along today, when suddenly the radio shut off and the HVAC display turned off. So did the clock, and the overhead lights stopped working. Keyless entry also didn't work.

 

Anyone know which fuses to check off the top of their head? Just trying to save a little time.

that's more than one fuse

That blows. I guess I'll have to unpack my multimeter. I have no idea what happened, the radio just turned off and none of that other stuff was working.

WTH. Every fuse in the car checks out for continuity. Every one of them. So with no blown fuses, why doesn't any of that stuff work? It does look like it's 3 or 4 fuses worth of problems.

 

The alternator makes a HORRENDOUS cogging sound with the key in the "ON" position that I never noticed before, and a terrible whirring sound when you turn the key to the OFF position.

I can't help with the alternator noise, but the center console "blanking out" on the BL/BP is a not-uncommon occurrence that continues to defy logic and diagnosis:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/stereo-and-ac-display-going-blank-wtf-137260.html

 

^ This is one of the most recent posts on this subject, but if you did a complete search, you'll see that reports span the entire duration of BL/BP production.

 

Some of us have had the problem once or truly only occasionally - others see it more frequently.

 

Given your window concerns from the other thread, I would make the dealership aware of this, the same time you go in for the window diagnosis/repair.

 

Also, you haven't done your overhead ambient lighting project, have you? That may complicate things un-necessarily, particularly if you have a non mod-friendly dealer.....

I don't think my problem is the same as that thread you posted. The HVAC controls work, but no display. The radio does not work, nor do the interior lights or clock.

 

I haven't done the ambient lighting project yet, but I did drill the mount holes in the overhead lens. I can't fathom how drilling some holes in plastic would muck up a whole bunch of unrelated electronics.

 

Edit: The alternator noise was actually the throttle body motor. Apparently normal, I just never noticed it (I very very very rarely have the key in the ON position without the car running).

I don't think my problem is the same as that thread you posted. The HVAC controls work, but no display. The radio does not work, nor do the interior lights or clock.

 

It's unknown whether your problem is the exact same, due to the variations that your specific case involves - however, if you looked at that thread, as well as traced back older threads of the same nature via a more comprehensive search, you'll see that one common variable is itself the variability of how the problem presents in each specific case (i.e. for some of us, one or the other, or both, displays go blank, for some, the radio or HVAC "locks," etc. - there's no truly set pattern). The specifics vary, but the overall theme is the same.

 

I truly believe that you're the first case of the front dome/map lights being affected - I know you said that your interior lights were affected, but what, specifically: main cabin dome? puddle lamps? hatch dome/lamp?

 

I haven't done the ambient lighting project yet, but I did drill the mount holes in the overhead lens. I can't fathom how drilling some holes in plastic would muck up a whole bunch of unrelated electronics.

 

I can't imagine it would, either, but if you've got some Velcro laying around, I'd just pop it over the outside hole, and put your garage door opener remote there, just in case, when you do bring your car in to the dealer.

No interior lights work, the car doesn't even show the "door ajar" icon on the SI drive screen, or light the red dash light. HVAC works, but no display. The LIGHTS on the radio illuminate, but not the screens, and the radio doesn't work.

 

Turning the car off, then back on, doesn't do anything. Looks like I'll make the call today to bring the car in tomorrow. At least I can have them replace my steering wheel at the same time.

No interior lights work, the car doesn't even show the "door ajar" icon on the SI drive screen, or light the red dash light. HVAC works, but no display. The LIGHTS on the radio illuminate, but not the screens, and the radio doesn't work.

 

Wow! That's definitely the first I've read, of -that- presentation.

 

I assume you've checked the underhood busses/fuses too, correct?

 

 

Turning the car off, then back on, doesn't do anything. Looks like I'll make the call today to bring the car in tomorrow. At least I can have them replace my steering wheel at the same time.

 

^ Best of luck!

I checked every fuse for continuity, and everything checked out just fine. There was a rumor that the Main Fan 2 Relay might be a source of the problem, but I couldn't confirm yet.

 

PITA.

IThere was a rumor that the Main Fan 2 Relay might be a source of the problem...

 

You mean this?

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cooling-fan-relay-issue-now-recall-campaign-55332.html?t=55332&highlight=fan+relay+tsb

 

Your 2009 should not have a problem with this, due to the redesigned relay

 

Also if this was a problem with your vehicle and your fan is stuck "on," and continues to stick "on" after you've changed out the relay for a new one, your ECU will need to be replaced, too. Another reason to remember to un-marry your AccessPORT, prior to your taking the car in to service.

 

To the best of my knowledge, the two issues are unrelated, based primarily on evidence that the MY05/06 vehicles which experienced either relay and/or ECU circuit failure did not, by any significant numbers, also experience the center-console "blanking" - and also that the center-console "blanking" issue spanned the entire production range of the BL/BP chassis.

Just got word from the dealer.

 

A post-delivery-inspection fuse blew. I must have missed it in my check, or it might be an un-listed fuse that I assumed was a spare. When the car is delivered, none of that stuff works and that fuse has to be flipped. He said the fuse itself was cracked, and that 18,256 miles worth of snow, salt, rain and junk could have caused some corrosion or something inside the fuse. It popped, and nothing in the car worked anymore.

 

Looks like they'll be replacing my steering wheel, and he is investigating the "slow window" situation. He admitted that they were slow, but that they seemed to be "normal subaru slow". They are definitely the slowest windows I've ever owned. My wife's 09 Impreza windows FLY up, even faster than her old VW windows, which is saying a LOT.

 

Hopefully I'll get the car back today, and hopefully this will be the first and only electrical problem.

^ Good to know it got addressed/fixed!

 

If you were not exaggerating in your timing of the windows, then believe me, they are too slow to be anywhere near "normal."

 

All of us here know well how slow our BL/BP windows are, but 45-seconds, combined with your end-of-cycle problems, is definitely well outside the range of "normal!"

08+ impreza windows are 3-5x times faster than ours. Even my Yaris has faster windows. Hell, crank windows are faster.

 

Looks like they'll be replacing my steering wheel, and he is investigating the "slow window" situation. He admitted that they were slow, but that they seemed to be "normal subaru slow".

 

"Subaru slow". That comment reminds me of the rationale applied by the regional rep here in NorCal to 2 of my windows which have some embedded streaking (best way I can describe it). Even though the service associate, service manager and even the regional rep himself all agreed that this was something they had never seen before and obviously flawed, it was deemed "commercially viable" and so would not be replaced under warranty.

 

That is one of several reasons why I will never buy another Subaru, even though this is my first and have owned it for less than a year. The inability and reluctance to fix even the most obvious issues on a new car is appalling. My Subaru experiment begins and ends with this car.

That is one of several reasons why I will never buy another Subaru, even though this is my first and have owned it for less than a year. The inability and reluctance to fix even the most obvious issues on a new car is appalling. My Subaru experiment begins and ends with this car.

 

This is a problem with your dealership and the regional rep, not Subaru. Call SOA, they'll get it replaced for you.

The 2010 Loaner had windows I thought would break the frames when they went up. They are stupid fast. I want to grab the FSM for the 2010 and see what they changed, and if it'll bolt up.

 

They showed me the fuse when I went to pick it up. It was cracked in half. The best guess is the PDI tech man-handled the fuse when doing the delivery inspection and cracked it. I'm surprised it lasted that long, in all honesty. Fortunately, the only casualty was my radio presets.

 

I won't buy another Subaru because I think the newer ones are ugly, and the blue interior lighting is childish. Hopefully they'll have something awesome when it's time to replace my Outback. I've had 7 Subaru's so far, so I'm not afraid of one more, but I'm not afraid to walk away from the brand.

 

I've had one lemon in all of them, and after finding out the cause of this problem I'm not worried about electrical failures in the future.

 

The windows are still slow, but I'll live with it. They aren't TOO slow when the car is running, and I'll just get used to it. The issue was logged, so if there is a problem in the future, it'll be really easy to handle.

 

Steering wheel is on order, and will be replaced next Tuesday. Eventually, I'll get one of the DAMD wheels (I got addicted to the thick-rim steering wheel after driving a 2011 760iL with the M-Sport package and THICK wheel), but it'll be nice to have a nice condition stock wheel for the next 72k miles.

....but it'll be nice to have a nice condition stock wheel for the next 72k miles.

 

+1.

 

The wheel is what you interact with, every day, every minute, that you're driving the car.

To the OP - I realize I'm resurrecting an old post, but I have a similar problem with the radio and climate control not working. Do you recall which fuse they replaced?

 

EDIT:

Never mind - it turned out the plug to my radio and climate control was loose.

Was this "post delivery fuse" in the fuse panel to the left of the steering wheel or was it under the hood? I am quite certain I blew this fuse. Symptoms no dome light hvac and radio not working as well as security features. I know this is an old thread but I could seriously use the help!

I had the same exact problem in my car and it indeed ended up being the pdi fuse. if you pull the panel of the fuse box in the engine bay... right in the bottom middle of the panel you will see a 2 slots for a fuse and 20a fuse in the left hand side. the left hand side is the "extra storage socket" and the one on the right is the real one. just put that 20a bad boy on the right hand side fuse socket and bammmm