Rear Toe frozen, KTA124 kit best/only solution?

Admittedly, the control arms and all the joints/bushings of the suspension are the least I understand and know about.

 

Had an alignment done earlier this summer. They said the rear toe was frozen and could not be adjusted (unfortunately, hand written on the bill that I opened when I got home).

 

From reading around, it seems like either it needs to be cut out or replaced. The KTA124 kit comes up as a solution: http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KTA124&sq=18616

 

Their website says that:

Notes: Important

Complete new arms with 50mm adjustment MOTORSPORT - use with KCA307

 

KCA307 is the OEM toe lock out: http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA307&sq=24688

 

So this is saying that I need to get the OEM toe lock out if I get the KTA124 rear control arm kit? I emailed Whiteline a while ago but I have never heard back. Anyone have any experience with this?

 

Also, I already have the rear bushings installed that give the rear the adjustable camber, KCA399 http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA399&sq=24694.

 

Does the KTA124 kit now make that purchase useless? It seems to me like it replaces it. Again, asked whiteline with no response.

 

 

If the solution for the seized toe is to go with the KTA124, should I just go all the way and add the roll center kit? http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA313&sq=24678 ... I am lowered on pinks and bilstein HDs

 

I already have KCA344 http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA334&sq=24675 which gives me extra caster in the front, am I again nulling that purchase by upgrading to the roll center kit?

 

 

And if I'm going to go that far, what else would give me the best bang for any remaining buck I might have with the driveline / suspension bushings? Diff bushings? I see there are a multitude of options from whiteline.

 

I'm not trying to do EVERYTHING (though I know this post reads like it), but just tighten up the suspension and drive line. That's pretty much the only part of the car that hasn't really been overhauled.

Let's focus on the rear first. The KCA124 is the arm kit, it does not NEED to be used with the toe lockout kit, but I highly recommend it. I ran the arm kit for awhile with the stock toe bolts but under high lateral loads, those friction toe adjustments will move eventually, throwing off your alignment. Also, since your bolts are seized, you need new bolts anyway. To fix your problem you can either 1) replace stock toe bolts with new stock toe bolts, or 2) replace stock toe bolts with KCA124/KCA307. Option 2 is obviously much much more expensive, and only you can decide if you need/want to go that route.

 

KCA399 will work along with the adjustable arms and lockout mentioned above, but it does become unnecessary at that point. All KCA399 does is give you camber adjustment, which the arms will also give you. Nothing wrong with running both, but yes it's redundant in that sense.

 

Roll center kit really has nothing to do with the rear end, but it will require an alignment. I recommend the RC kit for any car that has been lowered at all. So if you wanna throw that in before you get your car re-aligned, then that would be a wise choice.

 

The offset positive caster bushings, KCA344, will actually complement the RC kit, they actually work very well together, so no issues there. Additional caster really helps this car out. The KCA344 and RC kits do different things, I have both on my car.

 

As far as diff bushings go, you have the bushings in the diff crossmember/carrier, as well as the press in bushing inserts that go into the subframe. I have both and I do think they make a worthwhile difference. However, these have nothing to do with suspension or alignment, so you can do these whenever you choose.

since the bolt is seized, is there cutting / torching involved with either solution of replacing with stock toe adjustment or going to the KTA124/KCA307?

 

understood about the RC kit not doing anything to the rear. I just figured if work was getting done might as well go for it. same with the bushings.

 

I think the only thing missing from their LGT options, if I go the KTA and RC kit, is the lower inner front bushing W0506, diff inserts (KDT927 versus replacing with the bushings, KDT906?), and the outrigger KDT905. I think the rear trailing arm lower front gets replaced with the KTA? and I don't think I need the rack and pinion bushing...

 

thanks for the info!

You will need to do whatever is necessary to remove the old toe bolts. I'd start with PB blaster and some heat. Worse case scenario is having to cut it out of there without damaging the subframe. You will need to do this no matter what option you go with.

 

Which bushings are you talking about specifically? In the rear if you get the control arm kit then there are only the two left in the upper control arm.

 

Then with the rear diff there are bushings you press into the diff crossmember. The press in inserts go into the subframe, which are much easier than the ones that need to be pressed in, because you need to remove the subframe for those.

Less expensive solution: cut off the old bolt and replace it with another one.

 

It's just a cam bolt, similar to the camber bolts in the front struts. The cam surface rusted into the rear trailing arm, preventing smooth movement when you pivot the bolt.

 

And no, you don't *NEED* the toe lock kit when you get the adjustable trailing arms. Its optional.

Good info from scoobyscoodle and rougeben83. Personally I would just hack out the old toe adj. bolt and replace it. The stock bolt is usually adequate to get the rear toe within reason on mildly lowered LGTs. Sometimes using the KCA399 to adjust camber can affect the toe angle enough that the stock bolt can't quite bring it back to ideal, although there should be enough adjustment to at least get both sides even. If you want to get the maximum possible adjustment of both rear camber and toe then the KTA124 is a good choice. It will also replace 3 bushings per side with polyurethane. That being said there are also Whiteline options to replace the rubber bushings in the stock camber and toe links. Refer to this pic for P/Ns.

 

http://imageshack.com/a/img746/2179/bwGsXp.jpg

Man that schematic really makes things easier. A picture is worth 1,000 words haha.

Thanks - made it after the umpteenth time I had to look up various bushings for the BP/BL.

 

BTW the KTA124 makes W63395 and W63393 irrelevant, but W63394 is pressed into the trailing arm and therefore not included in the KTA124 kit.

ha I just noticed your watermark on the image.

 

that just made it so much clearer. I was trying to work my way through whiteline's pictures and what I can remember from being under the car

I just purchased the toe lock kit to go with the adjustable control arms. If you go that route keep in mind the toe lock kit doesn't come with hardened bolts or nuts. I was pretty disappointed to see a suspension company not include 10.9 hardware when all of the factory bolts are hardened. I had to spend an additional $10 for the right nuts and bolts.

ended up with this parts list...

 

KTA124

KCA307

KDT927

KDT905

KCA313

Cusco Rear Lower Arm Bars

Cusco Front Lower Arm Bars

I just purchased the toe lock kit to go with the adjustable control arms. If you go that route keep in mind the toe lock kit doesn't come with hardened bolts or nuts. I was pretty disappointed to see a suspension company not include 10.9 hardware when all of the factory bolts are hardened. I had to spend an additional $10 for the right nuts and bolts.

 

I'm looking to install the Whiteline kit in my 04 Bean Wagon. Might you share your source for the 10.9 nuts and bolts you used for the lock kit ??