Turbo inlet tear during install... replace?

Well, of course like many before me I got a little too trigger happy with a pick while trying to finagle the turbo inlet hose onto the turbo and tore it nicely... Is this too big of a tear to leave alone?

 

I would try duct tape, and may be a a few zip ties, until you can get a new intake tube.

 

Hey has any body ever thought about bolting the turbo on the up pipe because it might be easier and less chance of cutting the intake tube...sorry.

 

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4783.jpg

Well, of course like many before me I got a little too trigger happy with a pick while trying to finagle the turbo inlet hose onto the turbo and tore it nicely... Is this too big of a tear to leave alone?

 

[ATTACH]233575[/ATTACH]

 

I managed to do the same thing. Coated the inside of the turbo inlet tube with a glob of grease then clamped it down. Doesn't seem to leak too badly.

I would try duct tape, and may be a a few zip ties, until you can get a new intake tube.

 

Hey has any body ever thought about bolting the turbo on the up pipe because it might be easier and less chance of cutting the intake tube...sorry.

 

I actually have the intake tube from the 2006 STI engine that donated itself to my cause. So it's just a matter of replacing it (though I'm sure it isn't a direct fitment, because of course it wouldn't be).

 

My up pipe studs came out along with their respective nuts, so I will be bolting it back on for easier install... though as usual I wish I had seen this beforehand!

I managed to do the same thing. Coated the inside of the turbo inlet tube with a glob of grease then clamped it down. Doesn't seem to leak too badly.

 

I might try that to get me by until next weekend when I can replace it. Or at least to get the car out of the garage...

Put a piece of plastic tape inside the inlet hose that will go up past the rip. Clean it with brake cleaner first and once installed, then put a very light bit of oil on the inlet and slip it on. You're right on the edge and if you get it all the way on the turbo you might be OK.

John is right the neck on the turbo may cover all of that.

 

This is the basic bolt, I used, check the length.

 

https://www.belmetric.com/bf10x125x25-flange-bolt-109-p-414.html?zenid=3jh0go1ljton99gishi2rid8a7&cPath=2_1047_69 that link came from this thread http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238p4.html

 

My buddies at the dealer parts counter gave me a hand full when I asked for some.

 

If your going to keep the car for a while, I would build a relationship with the dealer parts guy's ask them for a discount and buy all your OEM parts from them. They even vouched for me when I told the salesman I was on a first name bases with them. After checking with them, he gave us a great price on out 2016 Outback 3.6R. I've spent thousands there with them over the years.

I would try duct tape, and may be a a few zip ties, until you can get a new intake tube.

 

This was the solution I went with, so we'll see how it goes when it's up and running after I find the right size bolt to put on my intercooler.

Only problem is duct tape is not airtight. It's woven fabric and can allow air to pass through. Plastic will seal.

This was the solution I went with, so we'll see how it goes when it's up and running after I find the right size bolt to put on my intercooler.

 

TMIC bolt should be 8mmx1.25 about 1 inch to 1.25 inches long. Not sure what mm is for that. Or after you strip the threads out of the aluminum turbo just put a 6mm bolt in with a nut on it.

TMIC bolt should be 8mmx1.25 about 1 inch to 1.25 inches long. Not sure what mm is for that. Or after you strip the threads out of the aluminum turbo just put a 6mm bolt in with a nut on it.

 

Aha... I think the mechanic may have stripped the original bolts and drilled/tapped to 10 mm x 1.25. That explains it!

Only problem is duct tape is not airtight. It's woven fabric and can allow air to pass through. Plastic will seal.

 

Good point! If it becomes a problem that should be easy to replace one tape for another without having to remove the turbo. Then when that fails it's time to replace the inlet hose (or rather pay someone to do it...).

I think if you plan a day, lift the intake off the block in one piece at the TGV's. It might be easier to install a new intake tube. Your'll need coolant but that's cheap.

I think if you plan a day, lift the intake off the block in one piece at the TGV's. It might be easier to install a new intake tube. Your'll need coolant but that's cheap.

 

Yeah, I was thinking that exact thing. I had that intake manifold and TGVs leftover from the STI engine and looking at how the inlet fit in there it wouldn't be hard to do that way.

Put a piece of plastic tape inside the inlet hose that will go up past the rip. Clean it with brake cleaner first and once installed, then put a very light bit of oil on the inlet and slip it on. You're right on the edge and if you get it all the way on the turbo you might be OK.

 

My theory with the grease is was that the tear is in a part of the tube that should always be under vacuum. So while I'm likely not covering the hole perfectly, any leak under vacuum should suck a small amount of the grease glob into the tear, where it will ideally mix with whatever dirt is trying to get sucked in, gum up, and plug the leak.

 

Most likely the grease will just slowly migrate into the inlet tract, get atomized by the turbocharger, and the tear will start leaking again until it pulls in enough dirt/grime to gunk up enough to close up again.

 

If it keeps the thing from running lean under load and knocking on me for a month or so until I can afford to pull the intake manifold and do a new inlet and TGV deletes at the same time, then I'll consider it a success.

I would replace with a perrin inlet, shoot us a PM we have them in stock.

 

-Brian