Bigger oil filter

I was wondering if there's bigger oil filter available for LGT since ours is so tiny, looks like it came from riding lawn mower or something. On my other car you can fit one from Corvette and it's double the size of factory one.

Anyone know if filters from other cars will fit on LGT that are bigger? Thanks

There's something about the Mazda RX8 oil filter fits.

 

Do a google search, its been talked about on here a lot.

 

This thread may have it too.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238.html

I think there's a Toyota filter too that might fit.

 

Just check for filters with matching thread size and gasket diameter. But be careful since you might get an oil leak if some measurement is off from what the Subie engine prefers.

The most important thing is that the bypass is set to 23 psi per OEM spec. Most filters bypass at a much lower pressure, like 13 psi.

google, oil filter cross reference chart.

The common one to use is the '09+ Mazda RX-8 filter. It's essentially the same as the old "black" Subaru OEM filter (the OEM was Tokyo Roki), but with slightly larger capacity. I pick them up from my local Mazda dealer, but they've been around $10 a pop from Amazon last I checked. The Mazda part number is "N3R1-14-302"

I run the K&N PS-1008.

 

Like the Subaru filter, this also has a round seal, unlike many aftermarket ones that us a flat seal. Round has less chance of leaks.

 

I get them on Amazon or other places.

 

I run the K&N PS-1008.

 

Like the Subaru filter, this also has a round seal, unlike many aftermarket ones that us a flat seal. Round has less chance of leaks.

 

I get them on Amazon or other places.

 

Bypass on these is only 11-17psi though, so it's not much better for these engines than a Fram (which are pretty much all 13psi).

 

Also I've literally never had an oil filter be the source of any of my oil leaks.

 

I always run either subaru blue's or RX 8 Roki's.

Lots of data on the web comparing brands. I've not heard of any Subie compatible filters that are problematic. I've also been told the bypass pressure is really an un-issue.

Lots of data on the web comparing brands. I've not heard of any Subie compatible filters that are problematic. I've also been told the bypass pressure is really an un-issue.

 

While that may or may not be true, I would rather stick to OEM specs. Contrary to what people on the internet like to think, I think it's safe to say that there were very deliberate and calculated design decisions made by the engineers based off plenty of simulation and testing, and unless I have a very good reason to deviate from it, I prefer not to. Not to mention the TR filter is comparably priced, so there's no reason to skip it IMO.

I've also been told the bypass pressure is really an un-issue.

 

*non-issue.

 

But in all seriousness, these engines don't idle at low 8-12psi pressures when warm, like most do. They typically run in the 13-20psi range, if not more. FWIW, the rear oil galley, when fully warm @700rpm will still likely be seeing ~25 pound oil pressures. I don't know enough to be able to make a clear judgement on the situation, but I figured that high base pressure was always the motivating factor behind bypass pressure concern.

The bypass pressure is only for the pressure over the filter, not for the system pressure. And it's there to protect the filter from bursting.

 

So for a bigger filter area then the bypass pressure can be lower.

Not trying to open a can of worms, but to clarify for myself: Wouldn't a lower bypass pressure mean less total time of oil filtration happening? I always figured that besides filter protection, bypass pressure also played into how much oil is filtered.

 

The only reason I think this: When I interned at a power gen facility, we'd swap the filters out when the pressure delta reached 12psi, as their bypass was 13. pas 12, nothing was being filtered and with as much oil as a CAT3520 takes that was very important.

^^^ Bingo!!!!

...I've also been told the bypass pressure is really an un-issue.

There's a lot of misunderstanding out there.

 

The bypass valve is triggered by pressure difference between the upstream and downstream sides of the filter. In other words, the filter is bypassed when it becomes too restrictive to allow normal oil pressure (also to protect from the filter collapsing, as was said). This could be when the oil is thick, at cold startup time. Or, when the engine is running a large volume of oil at higher RPM.

 

If the bypass pressure is too low for a particular engine, the filter will be bypassed too much of the time, allowing unfiltered oil to circulate through the engine. There are many fine passages in the oil system -- crud circulating through them can't be good for the engine (especially turbo engines).

*non-issue.

 

 

 

But in all seriousness, these engines don't idle at low 8-12psi pressures when warm, like most do. They typically run in the 13-20psi range, if not more. FWIW, the rear oil galley, when fully warm @700rpm will still likely be seeing ~25 pound oil pressures. I don't know enough to be able to make a clear judgement on the situation, but I figured that high base pressure was always the motivating factor behind bypass pressure concern.

 

 

 

Off topic.. is there a noted difference in oil pressure between front and rear oil galleys?

Thanks

-Dave

I always use the blue OEM ones and have never had an issue. I change oil every 3700-4000 miles as well.

Not trying to open a can of worms, but to clarify for myself: Wouldn't a lower bypass pressure mean less total time of oil filtration happening? I always figured that besides filter protection, bypass pressure also played into how much oil is filtered.

 

The bypass filter is there to protect the filter itself from a blow-out of the filter material internal in the filter cartridge rendering the filter completely useless.

 

That said - the bypass valve is primarily operating when the oil is cold or under high rpms, when it's warm and under normal rpms then the oil is thin enough to be able to pass through the filter surface unless it's totally filled with gunk (in which case you probably have a problem anyway).

 

Just continue to read here: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=309756

 

Then you have factors concerning the filter area and how fine particles the filter can capture. Not all filters are alike, but usually the same brand in different sizes for the same application (e.g. gasoline engine) has the same filter material.