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Reliability and maintenance questions


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Hey everyone I'm fairly new to Subarus still and am wondering what concerns I should have with reliability and what maintenance is more important than usual with other cars that are turbo.

 

I've heard that I really need to keep an eye on the oil level because the EJ255 tends to burn excessive amounts of it.

 

I also heard something about a banjo bolt and heat shield..

 

I've also noticed that at cruising speeds on the freeway between 2500-3500 the car kind of bucks back and forth; is that normal? It almost feels like its choking for air or the fuel tuning isn't smooth. Would getting a freer flowing exhaust or tune help?

 

And another odd thing I've noticed is that my 2005 legacy GT wagon's clutch pedal is super stiff and the shifting is really sloppy and spongy. I've driven three different STi imprezas of various years, two being hatches and one sedan as well as a 2008 WRX sedan and the clutch pedal was much lighter and the shifting was much crisper! Is there anything I can do to change whatever is different between mine and them to obtain that feel? Is it the weight difference that makes the pedal have to have a heavier feel? Is it wear and tear that is causing the shifting to be spongy?

 

Thanks for the input everyone!

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Turbos fail

Rings fail

Motors burn oil

Stock Tune is horrible - might explain your buck

 

Since you bought this used, I'm hoping you got an inspection done and checked leak down.

 

I cannot speak for the Subi tranny experience specifically, but what you're describing is my experience with all the bad shifting in their cars - though all the clutches have been silly light. If yours is really stiff, chances are you have after market and the car was putting out more power before you bought it.

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Like Rob number 2 just said, this has the smell of a previously 'enjoyed' engine. If the car was returned to stock from some modifications then your bucking could be a phantom of that (previous performance tune with some modifications now removed!)

 

I would have the car looked at by someone who does know what they are looking at or you can take some pictures of the engine bay/turbo as best you can and we'll all have a look at it with you. Search for the VIN, poke around, you may find your car on here somewhere!? Who knows...

 

These cars ARE reliable when looked after and they can make a lot of power and keep being reliable but everyone's mileage may vary of course. It depends how much money was spent on the parts it ever needed and if the car was looked after. This is a second or third hand car now so who knows. Get it looked at - maybe you need to get some things adjusted to your taste - that clutch shouldn't be that stiff... I'm thinking it's been upgraded.

 

Personally I love these cars and would invest in whatever it needs... whatever makes you happy though but be prepared to find out this car isn't as stock as you may think until we or someone gets a good look over it for the clues!

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Some stock clutch pedals are in fact very heavy--mine for example as well as another OBXT that I've driven. Not sure what the cause is for that really. I'm about to start buttoning up my own clutch replacement and I'm interested to see if the pedal will lighten up. If it doesn't lighten up after replacement / clutch bleeding I may look to the slave cylinder, not sure really.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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Sounds like the car has a ACT clutch in it, lots of guy's say they feel heavy.

 

My Spec 2 clutch and the Spec 2+ clutch I had before that, have a nice light feel, not much different then the OEM clutch in my SpecB.

 

Like the other's said, get the car to a Tuner and have him street tune car.

 

Yes, check the oil and keep it topped off.

 

I have both banjo filters removed in the wagon.

 

Replace all the gear fluids at the 30,000 miles points, use Extra-S, or the Redline/Motul cocktail, or I use Amsoil Severgear in both my cars.

 

Have you cleaned the MAF sensor ? is the air filter clean ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Hmm all things to take into account. Thanks! I know it has a 3" down pipe and totally suspect that it has had an accessport stage 1 or 2 on it. It pulls like an STi and I have a stock intake and exhaust. Like I'll look over and be neck and neck with an STi and I can't even hear my engine! And considering my car weighs more and is only negligible in aerodynamics it doesn't really add up to be a stock tune.

 

I've been told by an exhaust shop that I have a stock up pipe but apparently my year has a cat in the up pipe and other years don't, so perhaps it's been upgraded to a catless up pipe or it's still the original one but gutted?

 

I also have green springs and yellow shocks so I'm guessing Tein with Bilstein?

 

I did have the vehicle looked over a little by a friend who works at Firestone and he is a Subaru fan. He owns a 2007 STi. I forget whether he did a compression check but whatever he checked that's on the list for their per purchase inspection, it passed.

 

Since I've owned it I've really only done maintenance and cosmetic things to it. I should post some pictures up and see if anyone recognizes the car. Lol

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If you have a 3" downpipe it definitely shouldn't be on the stock tune. My OEM clutch was stiff at 80k miles, and shortly after my TOB failed so I upgraded the clutch. Being a dumb@ss who didn't do enough research, I went with an ACT setup and my left leg hates me for it. Swap the clutch fluid and bleed- this should help a lot with the stiff pedal. If that's not it, look to your slave cylinder, but I wouldn't chase too far as I've heard similar remarks to BMB.

 

Search "reliability modifications" to find a good list of mods that will keep your LGT happy.

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Hmm all things to take into account. Thanks! I know it has a 3" down pipe and totally suspect that it has had an accessport stage 1 or 2 on it. It pulls like an STi and I have a stock intake and exhaust. Like I'll look over and be neck and neck with an STi and I can't even hear my engine! And considering my car weighs more and is only negligible in aerodynamics it doesn't really add up to be a stock tune.

 

I've been told by an exhaust shop that I have a stock up pipe but apparently my year has a cat in the up pipe and other years don't, so perhaps it's been upgraded to a catless up pipe or it's still the original one but gutted?

 

I also have green springs and yellow shocks so I'm guessing Tein with Bilstein?

 

I did have the vehicle looked over a little by a friend who works at Firestone and he is a Subaru fan. He owns a 2007 STi. I forget whether he did a compression check but whatever he checked that's on the list for their per purchase inspection, it passed.

 

Since I've owned it I've really only done maintenance and cosmetic things to it. I should post some pictures up and see if anyone recognizes the car. Lol

 

You need a tune for that 3incher. Make sure you're on one before it goes BOOM

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Oh okay I'll look up the reliability mods and I'm searching for a deal on an AP v2 at the moment so hopefully I can find a deal as well as a fair price on an intake, up pipe and mufflers and I'll tune it. ^_^

 

I want something as quiet as possible. I'm thinking Prodrive Oval tips with an STi up pipe or something similar. Any thoughts on this?

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I would think you have a gutted up pipe.

 

Get the car tuned for that DP, until you do keep the car out of boost, you well be running lean.

 

You do not need a intake, the stock one is great till like 400whp.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Is the EGT probe still there ? or is there a 2.2k ohm resistor in the small grey connector on the right shock tower?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Are you trying to figure out if someone did a manual fix on an error code caused by the down pipe? I'm not sure.. I'll have to check on it. I definitely don't have any error codes so it would either have to have a tune or have that fix. Although if I remember reading correctly there are two different ways to manually fix it no!?
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EGT probe is in the uppipe, and he's trying to figure out if you have an OEM uppipe. If the EGT probe is present, chances are the PO didn't go through the trouble of gutting the cat.

 

Correct.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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FWIW I gutted my cat but left the EGT in there just as a plug.

 

on the hesitation, I've been battling it since I bought my car a year ago. made a pressure tester and found a bunch of vacuum/boost leaks which helped, but didn't totally fix it until I installed an aftermarket BPV yesterday. hesitation happened around peak boost, think it was the BPV leaking but only at high pressure (15psi+).

 

Also, just do a quick check to make sure you're BPV o-ring is there. mine got left off, probably when the previous owner had the clutch done.

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FWIW I gutted my cat but left the EGT in there just as a plug.

 

on the hesitation, I've been battling it since I bought my car a year ago. made a pressure tester and found a bunch of vacuum/boost leaks which helped, but didn't totally fix it until I installed an aftermarket BPV yesterday. hesitation happened around peak boost, think it was the BPV leaking but only at high pressure (15psi+).

 

Also, just do a quick check to make sure you're BPV o-ring is there. mine got left off, probably when the previous owner had the clutch done.

 

Why go through the trouble of gutting the cat only to leave the EGT probe in? The EGT probe is just as much of a hazard to your turbo as the pre-turbo cat.

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I had no idea it was such a threat.

 

It can be if the probe breaks.. Just a friendly FYI. There are SO many ways that a small failure can take out the turbo, then in turn the shortblock. I've bulletproofed things for the most part, but there are just a ton of things you have to watch out for.

 

Other critical failure points:

-Oil pickup tube can crack -> oil starvation to heads and turbo

-OCV's can stick -> oil starvation to heads

-banjo filters can clog -> oil starvation to turbo

 

Probably a whole slew of other things I didn't mention.

 

Solutions:

-Oil pickup - replace OEM with Killer Bee or Moroso (Killer Bee unit is much more stout)

- OCV's - Remove and clean, test with 12v DC for function. If this doesn't work, replace.

- Banjo filters - Clean or replace. 6 of one, half a dozen of the other as to which is a better route.

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