ej22 rebuild

hi i picked up a ej22 on cl for 75 doller. was fairly rusty, looked likea skwerl had been eating nuts in there for a while and shit every were. anyway. got that all cleaned. finally got a round bolt off flywheel with saws. the head gasket looked pretty blown also guy said it haas 150- 160 k. thinking about cleaning it up and measuring some stuff. hears some pics tell me what you think

engine was used for 100 mile day work in boston to portaldn close to shore so there is alot of rust on the outside. also the block as alot of salt buildup

 

BTW this was from a RHD postal 1998 legacy Automatic

Going to be installing a flywheel for manual operation

 

thinking bout measuring and getting new rings, mains, and rod bearings and full gasket kit

 

any thoughts appreciated

Sounds like a good plan

Those main bearings look good from here. If none of them are scored, I'd reuse as is. Just gage them. Subys will easily go 300k+ on original bearings. Mainly because w/o machining the crank, the journals are generally different sizes and only the dealer sells bearings individually, so you pay a premium over a regular set.

Rod sets are easier.

Obviously(?), you know you have to do a workaround to put that auto engine into a manual car?

Do not use E bay hg. MLS only, preferably from dealer, though Fel Pro's are a good alternative for the EJ22.

I prefer anaerobic sealant for the general block work.

Have fun.

 

O.

first, i have never rebuilt an engine or split the block on a subaru,

so my experience is very limited.

 

but in my opinion,

the joy of a $75 ej22 engine is in the cost.

wash it off, replace the t-belt and seals, install it and drive on.

worst case, you waste a weekend and $200 in parts and fluids.

(and the parts would be usable on a different replacement engine if this one was bad.)

 

160k - 180k miles is nothing for an ej22, even a 98 interference engine.

the money you spend on new parts, (rings, bearings, not to mention a machine shop) is probably going to exceed the cost of a known good used engine.

 

and chances are that what ever car you put it in is not going to last as long as the rebuilt engine.

rust, wrecks, or other repairs,

not to mention your desire for a newer car,

will likely retire this car before you use up the rebuild.

 

so i would not have gone in this direction.

 

but everyone needs a hobby, and if you have the time and money,

and enjoy the work,

then have at it.

Hello;

I agree with Osei on this one! Give the cylinders a glazebreaking hone and install new rings and rod bearings! Be sure to check the heads and block for flatness and resurface! Check cams and regrind valves, Steven.

yes its a hobby, i have a 98 wagon brighton 5MT with almost 200k on it. oil change every 3k castrol 5-30 hm part syn, original head gasket.. just did timing belt/idlers/tensioner/ tune up clean up fluids also had to replace worn out clutch fork and clutch disc/pressureplate/tob and after all said and done someone pulled out infront of me and smashed the passenser side lights and hood radidiator cracked insuracne company gave me 400+cars worth this subby is luckey!!! ... replaced that with junk yard items. shes running very nicely only thing that worry me is head gasket and iv never adjusted the valves but (heard bad things about older cars and carbon buildup) i dont hear and noises only piston slap i belive when it is really cold like 15 and below and clutch cable (broke 3 times because of bad clutch fork 2wice on high way.. ahhh) but new fork is in and dont need to worry bout that

 

I dont care if im rusted out im a master at bending steal and have a welder so may even buy a later car that has blown engine and do engine swap. this is just so i never stop moving im not into turbo and speed. jusr reliability. so i have a working ej22 in my 98 brighton with orig head gaskets at 200k runs flawlessly this is just a rebuild hobby to maybe after i get it all set up this summer swap it in to my suby n see how she runs. ...

 

but i will inspect mains 1 does look like theirs bite marks on it.. ill post a pic f that later today..

 

As far as hg go i have 2 evergreen full ej22 gasket sets comming one for this engine and one for the one in my car.. and i plan on buying felpro hg.

it was only 50 bucks for the full gasket set so im gona use them minus the hg

 

thanks.

 

BTW i get parts used like new fdorm a whole sale. these are stock oem parts that have been eather taken back or jsut somone want to get rid of them..

 

for example i picked up a water pump for my 98 brighton at whole sale new for 9 dollers with shipping. and if you look around you can find good idlers (not the green ones) double bearing idlers (NGK) for about 20-25 bucks. and a 5 quart just of good oils about 15-20 bucks at wholesale stock market. so its all in how you look at it .. i dont plan on buying anyhting from subaru unless i really have to.

^ Great.

When looking at the bearings they may look a little scuffed. That's ok, just no gouges.

 

O.

if you look at picture 4, there are bit marks this is the only bearing i saw that had this.. i felt them with my finger nail they feel smooth..

Seems like normal wear to me. If worried, you can buy just a single bearing. The 2,4 bearings are @$22. You can mike the crank and see what you need. On the crank end you'll see a group of 5 letters in one group and 4 in another.

The 5 are the tolerance range from the factory. From A to D.

Use the engine spec sheet to check original #'s. You'll have to mate the block halves to gage it tho. Putting the block bolts in from both sides and torqueing to spec. (35 ft-lbs)

 

O.

now what about piston rings. should i replace those too?> should i measure ngap.. i can get a full set of stock rings for 50 bucks.

How long you plan on keeping the engine? If you just want to have everything as fresh as possible, then yes. Otherwise just make sure the oil rings are clean and go for it.

Std rings will be fine. You could measure the gap, but on the three I've done, I just mounted and went. No issues.

 

O.

i plan on keeping for a while, and since i have 2, its makes its nice.. i may just clean up the pistons and rings .. yea. if anyhting illl pull the engine in less then 3 hours and swap it in 2.. this is soo fun... im looking forward to doing this plan. i think i am going to pick up an engine lift (cherry picker) because i don't have one and it is needed to add to my stock pile of automotive tools that i will use for my whole life... cherry picker i found on local for less then 100. but online is like 150.

 

Then again i could just take manifold off /alt/ power/ compressor/timing components, take heads off. and lift out the block with a buddy. don't know how that would be like.

I've done all my engine work in my unheated garage.

I use a come along attached to a chain looped and bolted over two beams.

No room to store a picker along with engine stand and tool. Not if want to keep being married!

Fun it is indeed.

 

O.

so i went paint happy on my ej22 manifold im converting to a manual tranny intake, i am thinking about cutting a plate for the egr and just blocking it all together on the manifold. my ej22 manual manifold does not have any this.. ill be assembling the crank and case somthign soon as i need a sock extension for my torque wrench..

 

so im thinkin bout painting the block black. i have some high temp 800 plus paint, the block looks nasty anyway. its all cleaned up but still has alot of nasty parts. and i just need anohter motor mount and ill be trans planting in a couple.

 

Another question when using the automatic ening harness thats on the manifold, it does still have a sensor for the egr but i dont think the manual computer will see it.. thinking aobut just leaving it on or cutting off. incase of cel. but i dont think ill have cel. thankjs for the responces.

Put it in your spare parts bin. You'll have a need someday.

Insofar as the torqueing of the block is concerned. I just use a 3/8 socket and extension with an adapter to 1/2.

Some of the holes are small and unless you use a thin wall socket won't take 1/2 in anyway.

 

O.

.. Been buys with alot of other things but got the engine almost done. just need to plug the old egr on the head and intake. also move the brake boost line to the left side, all rust has been brushed down wiped and painted with antirust high temp engine paint. eneind up with a junkyard valve cover all parts were brushed washed and cleaned before very light coat of anti rust high temp engine paint. also need to repair fuel selonoid and still get the pcv and other things worked out with all new hosing, will be swaping in the next couple months willbee updating more.

 

1. Engine and parts cleaned and scraped thoroughly externally and internally

2. Every seal is redone with ultra grey RTV new block seals for waterjackat and oil holes { i had to go to subaru } ohhh

2.5 Every Bolt Torqued to manufacture spec.. timing belt cover repaired with gorilla glue painted

3. Every Gasket has been replaced with brand new .

4. Engine was put together with Permitex Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube on everything.

5. Valves are adjusted to stock.

6. EGR port blocked still need to block it on the head and inktae i think its a 16 mm bolt..

6.5 repair fuel pressure vent solenoid bots to intake attaches to fuel line

7. Paint rust check

8. will be updaing more

 

oh and also i need a timing belt guide.. anyone know how much they are from subaru, i see one here looks really good but expensive

Tomioka Racing Subaru Timing Belt Guide

 

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