Cooling Fan Relay Issue now a recall campaign

I didn't know about this recall either untill I took my subie in for some interior warranty work. I've been waiting for over 2 weeks now for the new ECU. Noticed that my fan always runs. Called today to inquire how much longer and they said they are still waiting for a response from SOA, as they ordered it over 2 weeks ago and they showed 3 in the warehouse, but they were on HOLD. The service guy said there might be an issue with the replacement ECUs hence the hold, but he was just assuming.

 

Is there anything I can screwup driving around like this? You think I can burn out my fan motors?

I've gone 7000 miles and 2 months on the bad ECU and everything seems to not be broken.

 

Also, I was told they change part numbers very frequently on this part since in my saga, I've experienced a 2 week wait time in california, 4 weeks in PA with no delivery, and 2 days in Florida...weird

Is there anything I can screwup driving around like this? You think I can burn out my fan motors?

 

Wow, lotsa drivin'! Naaah don't worry, going on 8 mos. for me here in SoCal.

Good to know! Thanx fer the responses. Yeah I was speaking with someone else on this forum and they said if it says "hold" those are reserved for someone else and that more than likely they need to order some more. Looks like I'll be driving around for awhile like this:)

Also on the hold issue, I got to the dealership and was told that even though they told me two days originally, SOA wouldn't release the part to them until they got more in because there were only 2 left in America.

 

So I was wondering, whats the longest wait time anyone has experienced thus far? I saw 8 months with Carlos, I'm up to 3...

^^^ actually the fan issue was 8 mos., my ECM was on order for 1.5 mos., just got it done on Thurs.!

 

Oh BIG IMPOTENT NOTE... don't forget to bring in your spare key with the CODE!!! They made no mention of it in the letter or there at the $tealer, so I got to drive the 36 mile round trip to go grab'em from home in an *underpowered* H3 (baby Hummer/5 cyl.) that gave my kidneys a beating worthy of Tommy "The Hitman" Hearns, not to mention the temp gauge running up on the Nehwall Pass. <pfffffffft> I digress...

I took my car in for the recall this morning. Took about 45 minutes total.

 

My fan had been stuck on all the time (cold engine, hot engine whatever), so I was pretty sure the ECM was fried. Talked to the service rep afterwards, and he said the service guy had only changed the relay, and that he tested the ECM and it was fine so they didn't replace it. I got in my car and moved the key to 'On' without cranking it. There was a fan on, and the temp was near the center (the normal 'warm' area), but it didn't sound as loud as I remembered it, so I thought it was just my imagination.

 

Anyway, it seemed odd to me, but hey its their job right? Anyway, checked the recall info, and searched on here a little. And I started wondering, if I got into the car that only drove from the service bay to the pickup area (about 60 feet), would it be warmed up if they had let it cool down to below the first mark?

 

I've got a case number with SOA, and they're are going to look into for me. My question to you guys is this, with the A/C off, and the key in the on position, should I hear any fans at all? I can't remember it's been so long. Also, with the relay replaced, and if my ECM is actually damamged, what symptoms should I see? The fan still always on? Like I said, I heard *a* fan, but it didnt seem as loud as I remember. Should one be running normally?

 

Thanks,

--james

If the engine is cool, such as first thing in the morning, the fans should not come on with the key.

I waited for a while after lunch, and went back out to try it again.

With the A/C off, the temp needle was halfway between cold and the first tick, the fan on the driverside of the radiator comes on full blast with the key moved to 'On'.

 

I called SOA this morning, they called the dealer, who then called me and sounded all pissy. So I told him I'd wait a little while and try it again. Did that called him back and explained what was happening, and they placed an order for a replacement ECM.

 

I really wouldn't even be bothered by this except for the fact that I told them flat out, the fan was always running, and from my research, that indicated that the ECM needed to be replaced.

 

I just hate having to take another 2 hours off of work.

 

--james

I waited for a while after lunch, and went back out to try it again.

With the A/C off, the temp needle was halfway between cold and the first tick, the fan on the driverside of the radiator comes on full blast with the key moved to 'On'.

 

I called SOA this morning, they called the dealer, who then called me and sounded all pissy. So I told him I'd wait a little while and try it again. Did that called him back and explained what was happening, and they placed an order for a replacement ECM.

 

I really wouldn't even be bothered by this except for the fact that I told them flat out, the fan was always running, and from my research, that indicated that the ECM needed to be replaced.

 

I just hate having to take another 2 hours off of work.

 

--james

take all of your keys with you when they do the ECU, they need reprogrammed....

take all of your keys with you when they do the ECU, they need reprogrammed....

 

 

Yah, I had them both there with me. I gave them both to the rep when I told them they needed to replace the ECM.

I am at Stage II and have an AP map,..do I need to unmap it to get the reflash/servicing done for the to check the fan ECM?

 

That would cause some problems at the dealership cause if I return my car to oem map, my car would throw a CEL code for the turbo back exhaust I have. Would throw the O2 sensor code for to much free flow,..

I am at Stage II and have an AP map,..do I need to unmap it to get the reflash/servicing done for the to check the fan ECM?

 

That would cause some problems at the dealership cause if I return my car to oem map, my car would throw a CEL code for the turbo back exhaust I have. Would throw the O2 sensor code for to much free flow,..

 

err,....anybody,..anybody,..Just curious as I got an appt on Friday next week,..

Un-marry a block away from teh dealerz. Let them do their thing. Bring all sets of keys in case they need to re-code them. Re-marry upon leaving dealerz lot. Problem solved. It shouldn't throw a CEL in that short amount of time. It'll prolly never go closed loop....

My cruise control hasn't worked since I got the '05 LGT 5sp but nothing on dash (no CEL, etc.) I saw a pair of green connectors under the dash on the passenger side and connected them. Now chaos! When I turn the key on there is an electrical click under the hood, followed by a fan running for a second, and then continuous cycling of electrical clicks and 1-second fan running. Starting the car causes the CEL to flash and cruise to stay on. Searching here led me to this post.

 

My question is this: When I take it to the dealer in an hour (PLEASE SOMEBODY QUICKLY RESPOND ), should the green connectors be connected or not? I am not sure why they are disconnected... I just bought the car last week.

Keep them disconnected.

the green connectors should not be connected....they should only be connected for code reading.

the green connectors should not be connected....they should only be connected for code reading.

They don't need to be connected in order to scan trouble codes.

So this hasn't affect the 5EAT's at all huh?

;1238250']They don't need to be connected in order to scan trouble codes.

 

Doesnt it have to be connected to use the built-in code reader.

Doesnt it have to be connected to use the built-in code reader.

IIRC, onboard code reader in 05 needs drivers side green plugs connected...

Those green connectors are meant to be left disconnected...they are diagnostic connectors.

My fans stay on all the time and I am about to make an appt with the dealer for the recall.

 

I am Stage II with an AP. If I unmarry the AP at the dealer wont it throw a CEL because I only have 1 CAT?

^ It may or may not - this is very hardware-dependent, and even on vehicles with identical hardware, you can still find unique vehicle-to-vehicle variations. There's just no way to predict this.

 

Also, at least until the required drive-cycle is completed, you more than likely won't see the cat-related CELs at all. Experiment a little - if you do see the CEL, you can then attempt the hard-fix of using bored-out (and/or stacked) spark-plug de-fouler(s).

 

Whether or not you'll see the UP-EGT related CEL will depend on whether or not you're using the factory UP EGT or have the resistor modification put-in.

Also, at least until the required drive-cycle is completed, you more than likely won't see the cat-related CELs at all.

+1 on this. In my personal case when I had the recall done, I un-married in a parking lot about 1/4mile from the dealer, then drove it into dealer from there. They changed relay, ECU, and programmed keys all without throwing CEL's. Mods at the time were full stage2 with TMIC and catless UP. After leaving dealer, I drove to a nearby fastfood place, and re-married while chowing down on a sammich:)