New Legacy GT owner, turbo fail and possible engine damage right off the bat, help!

I recently purchased a 2005 Legacy GT and have already had some pretty bad luck. The car was fine for awhile but the turbo went the other day. My engine light came on but car seemed fine so thought I would limp to a safe place and in that time frame my turbo went. The codes thrown were P0011 and P0021 which leads me to believe the banjo filters clogged and starved the turbo of oil. There were also small gold colored (brass im assuming) flakes on the dip stick right after it happened. Making things worse this all happened 300+ miles from where I am staying. The cost of towing back would have been close to $1000 dollars and the engine has 147k already so opted to limp back carefully as far as I could and tow the when I got closer. I know this was foolish but it really was my only option as time and money are tight right now.

So, I was hoping I could flush the oil system really well, and bolt on a new turbo but now im afraid my whole engine could be in jeopardy, ruin the new turbo, and make things that much worse. It sounds like this happens alot and I figured some of you have been the same unfortunate situation so I figured I would ask. I drove as carefully as possible and car did fine but right before I stopped, it started smoking really bad and the engine start lugging and hesitating in low RPM.

 

So how many of you have been able to just throw on a new turbo flush the system and have everything be fine after that?

 

Or does this usually result in complete engine failure?

 

Is there tell-tale sign of a destroyed engine other than shavings the oil?

I talked to a Subaru dealership and they made it sound like my engine is likely a goner but also talked to a turbo specialist who thinks things might be fine (other than the turbo).

 

I just got the car not long ago otherwise I would be on here sooner, Thanks so much for any advice or help!

Brother I feel you pain! What you describe sounds like bearing material on the dipstick. If that is the case your engine is toast... I had the same problem a few months back. Drain your oil and look closely at what is in the filter and how the oil looks. I posted some pictures in the thread I started: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/arm-chair-diagnostics-help-video-205621.html?t=205621&highlight=arm-chair

You can clearly see the gold swirls in the oil. It did in fact spin a bearing, I haven't broken the case to see weather it is a rod bearing or a main. The amount of metal that I found after dropping the oil pan and windage tray is just scary. Good luck sir...I hope you can get thngs sorted out. Where are you located?

My story has a different outcome. My 05 had those codes at about 141,000 miles, I drove it gently to my trusted mechanic. He pulled the one banjo filter and I flushed the oil system with a can of Subaru motor flush.

 

I got another 1000 miles out of the turbo. I replaced it the day the whine changed to a whistle. About 20,000 miles later, I replaced the short block because I wanted to, for oil usage which had nothing to do with the turbo going.

 

 

Your best bet is to, replace the short block, have the heads rebuilt, buy a BRN16g or vf52. If your car has a clutch its time to put in a good clutch kit and TSK3 kit.

 

Here's my thread,

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/got-some-new-stuff-engine-r-r-184106.html

Well I unfortunately dont have the time or money to tear into the engine right now. I guess Im trying to figure whether I should take my chances now, flush and throw on a new turbo or just ditch the car altogether. Thanks again

Ditch the car. You're looking at a 50/50 chance of needing a new motor. If a new motor is an unacceptable risk from your current financial situation you're probably better off taking a small loss now, rather than rolling the dice.

Thanks for the info guys. Ill be honest, I bought the car to flip it so it makes things that much more irritating. I kinda wanted to just get out of it but considering the hit I would take selling the car to salvage yard essentially I may just have to bite the bullet and replace the motor, rebuild the motor, or maybe just go aftermarket, make it stupid fast, and keep it . From calling around it sounds like these engines are not easy to find, any suggestions? or maybe a suitable replacement thats not identical but an easy swap. Or what would having it rebuilt cost at a shop? I would do the work myself but the car is several thousand miles from home so the labor paid would likely exceed the price of getting it home.

Ballpark rebuild 4-7k. New shortblocks can be had for $1800ish. If you can do the labor yourself it will save a bit of $. Your heads should be looked at and resurfaced as well. Also get a new oil cooler as it sounds like yours is full of metal shavings.

Sucks learning the hard way about buying a turbo awd vehicle when times are tight... I did as well albeit my bad luck came a bit more slowly than yours. (Couple months of good luck then TOB went out, then turbo went out a couple months after that.)

 

That said IMO you should to ditch the car now... you can easily shirk the labor cost of turbo replacement by doing it yourself but do you have a) the skills and b) the free time to replace an engine on the cheap?

 

EDIT: If you go new short block, the EJ257 STi motor is identical in most ways and should be a direct fit. Though others with more experience will have to chime in here.

I actually have some cash to blow but shouldnt and didnt plan to especially when first buying the car. I think Im gonna look at the glass half full, sell my other rig and build a fast reliable subaru like ive always wanted to do. What would you suggest for reliable but decent power? Could be whole new engine, a a particular build, etc. Im gonna go on a research binge right now and try to decide but thought I might as well ask now that the thread is started.

Hmmm... Build

Start researching.

 

If looking for a fun street build and I did not have access to E85 this is what I would want. With E85 I would do the same with bigger injectors and fueling setup with an external waste gate.

 

7-8k ish? Your labor.

Off the top of my head

20 GXTR

DW 1000 injectors

DW 65C fuel pump (Maybe something bigger)

Tomei equal length header uppipe combo (Maybe external waste gate?)

Some type of catted down pipe (Invidia,Cobb,CNT, ETC)

Some type of FMIC (Perrin,RacerX,ETC)

Catback (Magnaflow, Invidia, Turbo XS,Etc)

TGV Deletes

 

Honed Short block

Manley rods

CP 99.5 pistons and rings

ARP Head studs

refreshed heads

STI nitride crank

Killer B oil pick up and windage tray

New Oil Cooler

 

Whatever else your tuner (yes you will need one) suggests.

pm sent...

It happened to me too, the day i bought my car @ 145xxx the car showed no signs at all of blowing no noise what so ever. Well it did blow, about 6 hours and 90 miles after. I was lucky enough to get the bnr16g, ip&t oil feed, deleted banjo filters, replaced the oil cooler and full flush of oil and its been running doing well (other than when i screw something up) total cost of what i did ran me about 1100 to fix the blown turbo, and i did the labor. Sorry to hear about it though its rough.

 

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I actually have some cash to blow but shouldnt and didnt plan to especially when first buying the car. I think Im gonna look at the glass half full, sell my other rig and build a fast reliable subaru like ive always wanted to do. What would you suggest for reliable but decent power? Could be whole new engine, a a particular build, etc. Im gonna go on a research binge right now and try to decide but thought I might as well ask now that the thread is started.

 

You can go from mild to full race, as your power increases reliability decreases. If I were you I would contact m.sprank ( infamous performance) or azpinstalls and explain your driving habits and what you realistically want out of the car. They will be able to tell you what will be best for your goals and driving style.

FWIW,

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/got-some-new-stuff-engine-r-r-184106.html

 

I think I put prices in there somewhere.

Max, I read your whole thread, informative and might be a good option for me. Thanks for the suggestions everyone, now its just mulling over whether I want to drain my bank account.

You need to decide if you want to keep the car. I enjoy driving the wagon and make use if it all the time.

 

These cars have great bang for the buck, when they run well. I had to replace the Gates water pump with a OEM one the other week. There was a couple of us that have had issues with the Gates pumps.

 

Next time I'll go OEM or one from the auto parts store.

 

With a good turbo and short block, rebuilt heads, good tune, these cars are great fun.

I know, I have been researching every possible option on what to do with this car. I really did think about just building it and keeping it but Im afraid that is just not realistic right now and I may but myself in a deep hole I can get out of. I have decided I am going to sell the car as is and worst case scenario scrap it. It has a fair share of aftermarket parts totaling about $3000-$4000 grand retail, including wheels, tires, coilovers, COBB sways front and back and a Perrin FMIC. Anybody interested in saving this car from the scrap yard or want it for parts? It will be posted in the classifieds section. Thanks for all your help and advice, maybe someday down the road when I can more realistically afford GT Ill will look at them again as it was very enjoyable when it was running.

Clean title in hand, offers?

Put a turbo diesel in it! haha. I have a diesel mechanic next door to me, and he actually showed me an engine that would work in my car. If my engine ever goes, I think I'm gonna swap it with a turbo deisel engine. haha. Imagine the torque!