Cross Threaded / Broken SPark Plug 07 Spec B

After 25K miles I figured I would replace my spark plugs cause that's the way I am. I Started on the driver's side knowing it would be the biggest pain based on Boxer2.5GT's sweet write up. (thanks!!)

 

A few bloody knuckles later I was on the passanger side rear plug and was lucky enough to break the porcelain while cracking it loose. Great! The weird thing is that the plug was extremely difficult to get out the whole way. Like it was cross threaded or maybe one of the broken porcelain bits was wedged. WTF???

 

Once out I tried to clean the shattered bits as good as I could but as you know you can hardly get in there. I was of course worried about pushing anything into the cylinder so I figured putting in the new plug was the safest way to block the hole. The new plug went in the same way the old one came out (super hard). Like it was cross threaded or the threads had debris in them. Out she came again and I used the handiest tool I know of which is an inspection camera. Milwaukee snake hose digital cam (which I wish I went and got before started in the first place) lets you see right into the cylinder basically. I could see that there was still debris in the head but the threads looked clean. $300CDN ish and worth every penny. Avail at Home Depot. mine paid for itself with this shit show.

 

I then rigged up my shop vac with some vacuum line on the end to suck out any crap that was laying around. I actually got quite a bit out thankfully. Another look with the inspection cam and it looked good!

 

Now back goes the plug but it had the same bagged thread feel, WTF so I kept on it hoping it would clear up but it never did. Once I thought I was all the way in I reassembled coil packs etc and fired it up. There was a nasty knock (or exhaust leak) that made me quickly shut it down.

 

My question is, if a piece of the broken porecelain fell into the motor am I done? any chance it will exit through a valve, sail passed the turbo and find it's way out? Ya right eh...

 

And, has anyone experienced damaged spark plug threads on a new motor and had to repair them?

 

Cheers,

 

if I blow up my motor there will be a stage 5 Spec B for sale soon. Lets hope not.

 

J to the B

hmm.. wow..

 

Well, first of all you know that plugs really don't have to be changed for 60k miles, but since that is out of the way already lets move past that fact.

 

Was the engine cold when you did this job? I mean, stone cold, like sitting for at least 4 or 5 hours. The block actually expands ever so slightly when warmed up, as things normally expand when heated, so that could be the reason why that plug went in so difficult. Second thing, did you remember to put a dab of anti-seize compound on the threads? If not then that could be a headache. Third thing, the plugs that you bought are they pre-gaped or are you supposed to gap them yourself?

 

These are just the first basic things that come to mind. Seems like that camera saved your day, well, kind of...

hmm.. wow..

 

Well, first of all you know that plugs really don't have to be changed for 60k miles, .

 

This

I doubt a piece of porcelain managed to make its way in. It's probably running like crap because the plug isn't fully seated. I'd pull the plug back out and run a thread chaser through there and pray that the threads are ok.

Places like NAPA will have a O2 bung thread chaser, spark plugs are the same thread.

 

That may help.

I doubt a piece of porcelain managed to make its way in. It's probably running like crap because the plug isn't fully seated. I'd pull the plug back out and run a thread chaser through there and pray that the threads are ok.

 

+1 That's probably what the "exhaust leak" noise is; it's a compression leak. Chase the threads and be careful not to overtighten the plug when you put it back in.

Put grease on the threads of the tap before you start. The chips will stick to the grease.

If you don't have a tap that size or don't want to buy one, another trick is to take a zip cut up the threads of one of your old spark plugs. Make 2 or 3 cuts. Just go from the bottom to the top like how a normal tap looks. Definitely grease the threads and go slow. Used this trick many times before.

Ya, 60K, I'm just kind of loony. New is better. At least I thought it would be.

 

I picked up some Nickel based anti-seize after being told that the grey stuff is a di-electric. I actually even heard that the copper based stuff can break down under super hight heat and become non-conductive as well. I'll give' er a good coat on before sending'er in.

 

I picked up a thread chaser today and will grease it up good before sending it in too. The first few threads seem fine since I can start the plug by hand so as long as the chaser goes it ok I think life will be good.

 

Thanks for the responses guys!

Good luck, keep us updated.

BigTree, that is exactly what I did and it worked like a charm. I probably sent the sucker in and out 20 times cleaning it and re-greasing it each time. I wish I would have gone striaght to doing this and saved driving all over town trying to find a tap or that crappy thread chaser that doesn't fit inside the head. NOTE to anyone that has to do this. The universal thread chaser that uses a 13/16 deep socket to drive won't work because the socket will bottom out long before the chaser will. If I wasn't paying attention I could have got the chaser stuck in the head. That would have been awesome.

 

She's back on the road and life is good. Thanks for your input guys!

hmm.. wow..

 

Well, first of all you know that plugs really don't have to be changed for 60k miles,

 

BS. Depends on power, driving style and plugs.

 

I'd not wait longer than 30k with stage 2k car, and 15-20k miles with stage 3+ cars.

yeah my tunner suggest an early change on plugs if tuned

I change my plugs every week

BS. Depends on power, driving style and plugs.

 

I'd not wait longer than 30k with stage 2k car, and 15-20k miles with stage 3+ cars.

 

Ok, so I should have specified for a bone stock LGT.

 

She's back on the road and life is good. Thanks for your input guys!

 

Glad to hear it. I genuinely got a little sick in the stomach thinking about you dealing with that, seeing that the car is so new

Fair enough. The more demand you put on something the shorter the service life, no matter what it is.

 

The car is running noticeably smoother. Not sure I feel a difference in power, just smoothness. And I haven't spit a plug out the side at full boost so that's good.