CovertRussian's 05 LGT Build Thread

I have this one saved in my Amazon wishlist, but i honestly have no idea about AEM fuel pumps. Consider this a starting place:

 

AEM 50-1215 (320lph)

 

 

the DW65c would be fine on pump. you could also not use the vf52 to absolute total potential and not swap out injectors or pump.

Edited November 28, 2017 by Flinkly
added flow rating

tuningalliance@gmail.com

 

Mike can recommend the correct pump...he can even sell it to you. Tell Mike I sent you.

Just wanted to give an update on my brakes. Since I replaced the rear lines and front calipers, the brake pedal stays firm all the time now even when you press on it for a while, brake response is also night and day.

 

I've always thought the brakes were weak on this car, I chucked it at the infamous master cylinder movement, but when I was working on a 2006 2.5i Outback this October (which has tiny calipers/rotors) I noticed that it had much better brake feel. This lead me to finally find and fix the issue on my car .

I think front calipers are on my short list. My wife's 08 Tribeca seems to stop better and have better brake feel than my car, and it weighs 4500lbs... I wonder if they're swapable?

I think they are the same. But with how cheap the remans are, just get them and rattle can them (mine are looking pretty good so far). Also do watch those boots after driving for a bit, mine were hyper extended, which would pop them out of the piston seals.

Ever since I've had that giant vacuum leak from evap pressure valve, I've been wanting to bypass it. The pressure valve is only there to let EVAP (fuel vapors) to go into the inlet under boost. When not in boost, the pressure based valve is closed, and an electronic solenoid opens directly into the intake manifold.

 

Since I don't care about my fuel vapors and gas mileage while boosting, this valve is unnecessary. It also adds another during boost fueling variable, that's not going to be constant, thus hard to tune for. One day you can have a lot of fuel vapors, and car will be very rich, the next day there might not be any vapors left and the car will now lean out.

 

Here is the mess of vacuum lines I've had since I did the STI inlet retrofit. The one we are after is hidden under alternator and white filter.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259601&stc=1&d=1513487974

 

To properly get rid of it, we have to pull the intercooler to get to the infamous, for popping off, blue tee (which has already upgraded to a barbed Turkeylord tee). This is the blow off valve vacuum line, which I also use for my fuel pressure regulator, so vacuum leaks are very bad.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259602&stc=1&d=1513487974

 

Here is the valve in question, with the blue tee's hose already removed

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259603&stc=1&d=1513487974

 

This let me pull it out and finally could remove the hoses from the tee.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259604&stc=1&d=1513487974

 

I tried to attach the BOV vacuum line straight into the manifold but since Subaru likes to use different sized molded hoses, I had to just use a barbed connector.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259605&stc=1&d=1513487974

 

With BOV side done, can now work on deleting the inlet side of the evap lines. It took a lot of prying to get the lines off, they were practically plastic (hard and brittle) by now, 50F weather didn't help.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259606&stc=1&d=1513487974

 

Here is all of the lines I removed, I did have to reuse the small portion of the blue tee line.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259607&stc=1&d=1513487974

 

All of that was replaced with one premolded elbow from one of my Nissans (which after 20 years was still very rubbery unlike Subaru hoses!)

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259608&stc=1&d=1513487974

 

Elbow installed straight into the EVAP hard line

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259609&stc=1&d=1513487974

 

While I was at it, I also removed the wastegate solenoid (since I'm running wastegate spring only). This cleaned up the inlet a bunch! I used two 1/2" Pex plugs to plug up the two inlet ports.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259644&stc=1&d=1513565452

 

While I was fiddling around with the EVAP lines, I noticed my MAP sensor line was knocked out of place very easily.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259611&stc=1&d=1513489254

 

Just like the other lines, it was very hard, starting to crack and didn't want to seal properly the manifold nipple.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259612&stc=1&d=1513489254

 

I found another hose in my Nissan's hose box, here's what it looks like all done.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259613&stc=1&d=1513489254

 

12/28 UPDATE! Drove for about 300miles now, ECU is pulling fuel instead of adding it, even though it's been frigid cold (notice the IAT at 8F below)!

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259976&stc=1&d=1514506205

 

As for low end knock, I'm pretty sure it's false knock thanks to squirrels loving to leave acorns on my heads

Edited March 3, 2018 by covertrussian

I'm starting to play with Tumbler Generator Valves (TGV's). The plan is to install the TGV deletes once it gets a little warmer, meanwhile I was curious to see how the car would act if I kept them closed.

 

I unplugged the TGV motors (since TGV's are closed by default), flashed a tune with TGV codes disabled and did some pulls. Car definitely lost power and engine didn't sound happy doing the pulls.

 

First the TGV voltage wouldn't stay consistent with them being unplugged (I think the pistons would flap them open).

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259980&stc=1&d=1514510633

 

Engine Load was WAY down

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259981&stc=1&d=1514510633

 

Same for mass airflow

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259982&stc=1&d=1514510633

 

Power loss was up there, even with boost I was still making less then NA 2.5i's

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259983&stc=1&d=1514510633

 

 

All of that wasn't a big surprise, I did cut off probably 95% of the airflow. I mainly tried this to see if it would help reduce pumping losses while driving around town. Which I'll touch more on in my Tuning for Fuel Economy thread later.

 

EDIT: Closed TGV pumping losses testing & theory posted here.

Edited December 29, 2017 by covertrussian

What's up Vad!? LOL

What's up Vad!? LOL

 

What's up! Had to make sure I wasn't on SR20 forums

What's up! Had to make sure I wasn't on SR20 forums

 

LOL, right?! I was stoked to see a familiar screen name!

Just wanted to update on the EVAP inlet bypass...

 

Before EVAP inlet bypass & MAP hose replacement. Doesn't look bad, just little high idle.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=260638&stc=1&d=1515716022

 

After, lots of fuel being pulled everywhere, and this is even with my inlet having a vacuum leak.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=260636&stc=1&d=1515715542

 

Now when coasting, I'm seeing higher manifold pressures too, before it would be around -20in/hg.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=260637&stc=1&d=1515715542

 

MPG Improvements

I didn't see this trend at first but I just saw it while gathering the data for this post. I haven't done much highway driving, so only have city numbers.

 

Before:

11/26/2017 (33-60F): 17.13mpg

12/04/2017 (35-60F): 17.19mpg

 

After:

12/18/2017 (27-60F): 18.20mpg

01/06/2018 (13-58F): 18.22mpg

 

Looks like 1mpg gain at similar temps, which is actually pretty darn good. As it gets colder MPG quickly falls due car taking longer to warm up. For example when it was 10-31F last week, I got only 16.36mpg. I don't think the car even got warm enough to use AVCS before I got to work .

Edited February 4, 2018 by covertrussian

Odd that you noticed a change at idle. The valve is supposed to be closed under vacuum and open under boost, so should only effect your top active learning cell (if at all).

 

If you replaced your MAP hose, you might have a leak there (or previously did when you you retuned your MAF curve). The stock '05-'06 MAF - MAP compensation table has some pretty big corrections at lower loads because they were using it along with the per injector table to compensate for injector nonlinearitys. I had to back that out after doing a topfeed conversion to get things back to normal.

Odd that you noticed a change at idle. The valve is supposed to be closed under vacuum and open under boost, so should only effect your top active learning cell (if at all).

 

Yup it shouldn't make a difference, unless the valve or another component is failing. In this case, the other components in the system is what was causing my vacuum leaks. For one the hoses were dry rotting and cracking, but the bigger issue was the hoses were almost plastic hard, even above freezing temps, basically they were no longer shrinking to tightly fit against the nipples.

 

This was really bad with the MAP hose, but half the evap hoses were toast too. Now I didn't replace the Manifold to Evap Valve hose, but I think I will soon, along with the manifold to blue tee part of the hose, since it was getting kind of lose even with zipties.

 

Oh almost forgot, since my FPR vacuum feed comes from the BOV line, which goes to the Blue tee, which went to the EVAP positive pressure valve, it probably was causing the FPR to be not too happy.

 

 

 

If you replaced your MAP hose, you might have a leak there (or previously did when you you retuned your MAF curve). The stock '05-'06 MAF - MAP compensation table has some pretty big corrections at lower loads because they were using it along with the per injector table to compensate for injector nonlinearitys. I had to back that out after doing a topfeed conversion to get things back to normal.

 

Ah interesting, good to know too. I'm actually on stock MAF curve and have been since I bought a new MAF. Once I replace more hoses and the inlet, I might have to redo the MAF curve to reduce fuel.

Dude, awesome post on the EVAP inlet bypass. I have my intake off to tighten the fuel lines and was thinking about doing the same as I was having to replace those lines. I'm also having some weird tuning artifacts so maybe mine was leaking as well. I have the old OEM 'T' on top of it.

Hey CovertRussian,

 

Thanks for the in-depth details on you whip. FYI I noticed a few pages like your headunit and wheel bearing install pictures are no longer available.

Do it, by pass that crap! I've really been trying to simply the unnecessary complexities of these cars overall.

 

So far got Up Pipe, Inlet, FPR, EVAP, next is TGV's...

 

Hey CovertRussian,

 

Thanks for the in-depth details on you whip. FYI I noticed a few pages like your headunit and wheel bearing install pictures are no longer available.

 

Mind posting direct links to those page? I'll get those pics uploaded here. I've been doing them on one by one basis as people ask about it.

Edited January 18, 2018 by covertrussian

Hey Covert,

 

I will do you one better since I had some extra time this morning and checked out all the links for you and these are the ones with the broken picture links:

 

Lightweight Crank Pulley - GrimmSpeed

Spark Plugs & Sidegaping

PCV Valve

Timing Belt

Water Pump

Throttle Body

Stage 0 Safety

WRX Front Endlinks

SS Clutch Line

Headunit pt 1

Headunit pt 2

DRL Disable

STI Homelink

HVAC Double Din

Front Wheel Bearing

Tranny Oil, ....

Brake Bleeding, ..

VAC leak

 

**Bonus**

S204 Lip Installation link goes nowhere

Do it, by pass that crap! I've really been trying to simply the unnecessary complexities of these cars overall.

 

So far got Up Pipe, Inlet, FPR, EVAP, next is TGV's...

 

Got rid of it last night. Just did a one piece hose from intake nipple to bov. No tgvs, did the bypass of coolant to TB and now evap into intake. Now to see how the pulls look vs pre evap removal.

Hey Covert,

 

I will do you one better since I had some extra time this morning and checked out all the links for you and these are the ones with the broken picture links:

 

Lightweight Crank Pulley - GrimmSpeed

...

 

Yeah all of those are from f^&king photobucket not allowing external linking anymore. They screwed up so many tutorials on about every website out there. They even did one better and made it so you can't even view those images on their own site anymore.

 

Options are to either pay for an account that allows external linking on PB or move all pics off PB and relink the pics.

Got rid of it last night. Just did a one piece hose from intake nipple to bov. No tgvs, did the bypass of coolant to TB and now evap into intake. Now to see how the pulls look vs pre evap removal.

 

I personally wouldn't do a coolant to TB bypass, especially if you live where it gets cold and humid. Your throttle can freeze in place, which is obviously not good

 

Yeah all of those are from f^&king photobucket not allowing external linking anymore. They screwed up so many tutorials on about every website out there. They even did one better and made it so you can't even view those images on their own site anymore.

 

Options are to either pay for an account that allows external linking on PB or move all pics off PB and relink the pics.

 

I'm kind of over being pissed at them, it is what it is at this point. It just sucks to have to manually download and reupload everything (their bulk downdload doesn't work).

 

Now on interesting note, about 50% of the working pics are still on Photobucket in this thread. They seem to be taking down images that have too high of view count basically, but ones that don't get as many views seem to stay up

They seem to be taking down images that have too high of view count basically, but ones that don't get as many views seem to stay up

 

 

Yea, I noticed that too.

 

jager, you do know how to upload them here, correct ?

At least legacygt.com comes with its own image hosting. Many other forums don't.

At least legacygt.com comes with its own image hosting. Many other forums don't.

 

Or if they do, you have to be a paid sponsor to use it. Luckily I've been able to talk some forums into changing that rule, since I am spending hours of my time taking & uploading pictures, which those posts then in theory generate traffic & ad revenue .

Hey Covert,

 

I will do you one better since I had some extra time this morning and checked out all the links for you and these are the ones with the broken picture links:

 

Lightweight Crank Pulley - GrimmSpeed

Spark Plugs & Sidegaping

PCV Valve

Timing Belt

Water Pump

Throttle Body

Stage 0 Safety

WRX Front Endlinks

SS Clutch Line

Headunit pt 1

Headunit pt 2

DRL Disable

STI Homelink

HVAC Double Din

Front Wheel Bearing

Tranny Oil, ....

Brake Bleeding, ..

VAC leak

 

**Bonus**

S204 Lip Installation link goes nowhere

 

 

Ok got a lot of those done, photobucket is getting more cranky and throttling me and giving me corrupted images.

 

Ones that I still have to do:

PCV Valve

Throttle Body

WRX Front Endlinks

SS Clutch Line

Headunit pt 1

Headunit pt 2

Front Wheel Bearing

Tranny Oil, ....

Brake Bleeding, ..

What aftermarket fuel pump would you suggest? I am eyeing the DW65c along with biting the bullet and just replacing the stock fuel filter *sigh*. I have seen a little bit on rewiring the DW65c to negate volt drop but what is your opinion on the matter of rewiring? Is it needed?

 

Thanks