JayInVA Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Noob here. Longtime lurker/first time poster. I've been helped quite a bit by reading these forums and have bookmarked quite a few threads that I refer to from time to time (Thanks!). So I have a 2005 Legacy 2.5i NA/non-turbo with about 180k miles on it. A few week ago I noticed that, on acceleration, the car sputtered quite a bit and misfired a few times. Figuring I needed new spark plugs (I did), I replaced them with the help of GEE-OTTOs tutorial (and it only took an hour or so!). That pretty much solved the problem. It ran perfectly. For about a week. Now, when the car is idling in drive, the idle is very rough and the engine will randomly sputter/shake. It's like a hiccup. From what I can tell, this only happens while idling in drive. Occasionally it will sputter just at take-off/initial acceleration but that's only when I start while the engine is 'hiccuping.' This has been going on for about a week now and the hiccuping has becoming increasingly frequent. I really hope I'm not doing too much damage by driving it like this but I have no other way to get to work (it's only a 3 mile drive so it's not putting a ton of mileage on it). Any ideas on where to start? I've searched these forums extensively and have a few ideas but just not quite sure. Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 May be dump a can of injector cleaner in the gas tank. Your you sure you don't have a vaccum leak, check all the lines. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silbeej Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Have heard that sometimes a dirty mass airflow sensor can do that, happens as car gets older etc. Other than that maybe an ECU reset, if you can do that by removing the battery, could help but have not tried it. Hope this little advice helps but i'd read into that sensor, or if someone you know has a diagnostic device plug it in and see if any errors are showing up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayInVA Posted January 31, 2013 Author Share Posted January 31, 2013 Thanks for the help! I'll take an all-of-the-above strategy on this one. Another symptom I noticed today that may help zero-in on the issue: The sputter increases when I turn the steering wheel and I notice the headlights dim at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 How old is the battery ? Are the terminals clean ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayInVA Posted February 1, 2013 Author Share Posted February 1, 2013 How old is the battery ? Are the terminals clean ? The battery is brand new(ish). It was replaced when I replaced the plugs. The terminals are clean, however, they were a little loose and the negative terminal/post had to be shimmed. You think it could be an issue of a bad connection? Because that would be beautiful. Haha. If I can solve this by replacing the terminals I would be one happy camper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 You need to have a good tight connection there. If it takes a new end on the cable...so be it. After that put some grease on the top,bottom and sides of the treminal to seal out moisture. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayInVA Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 So, since I last replied I have replaced the battery cable terminals and cleaned the MAF sensor. [i'm replacing the air filter today, as well. With the MAF that grimy, it's apparent that it needs a new filter.] Unfortunately I'm still getting the rough idle, but what is really concerning me is now, whenever the RPMs drop (particularly on deceleration and idling), the engine stalls out completely. Just a brief rundown of the sequence of events from start-up to stall-out: 1. Turn the ignition and engine starts with no problem; engine idles (in park) at around 1000RPM 2. Shift into drive or reverse and the RPMs drop to ~600-750RPM range. 3. Drive, accelerate: Generally, no problem. 4. Decelerate, come to a stop: RPMs drop to ~500 before completely stalling. I've noticed that if, as I'm coming to the stop and the RPMs hit ~500, I give it just a little gas to bump up the RPMs, I can prevent it from stalling. After that, it typically idles with no problem in the ~600-750RPM range. Even without stalling, the engine shakes and shudders pretty roughly during idle. It gets to the point that it feels like the entire car is shivering. The odd thing is that the CEL is off and has remained off. I can understand the CEL being off after the ECU reset that comes w/ prolonged battery disconnect, but it has remained off for days now. I'd expect whatever is causing the erratic idle to have triggered the CEL by now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Either wait for the CEL Or take it to a local mechanic. I wonder if replacing the O2 sensor's may be the next step. Hate to throw money at it without knowing what's going to fix it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayInVA Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 Keep in mind that most of this happened after I replaced the spark plugs, so I'm pretty sure it's related (to something I did). I think I'm just going to go home today and take apart the entire air intake "assembly" and put it back together again, just to make sure everything is fitted together properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Did you use the recommended plugs. Yes people have not installed the air box correctly. I even did that back on my 00' GT wagon 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayInVA Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 Did you use the recommended plugs. Yes people have not installed the air box correctly. I even did that back on my 00' GT wagon Thanks for the quick replies. I used NGK plugs. I believe they were NGK Laser Platinum Spark Plug (FR5AP-11) but I'd have to look at the box to make sure I have that part number correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06silvarubiLGT Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Mines doing this also, but I have low compression, hope you dont Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwm5094 Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 Replacing your OCV's wouldnt hurt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayInVA Posted February 14, 2013 Author Share Posted February 14, 2013 So after taking apart and re-assembling the airbox and re-cleaning the MAF (just to be safe!) it appears the idle is back to normal, for the most part (by normal, I mean no stalls and back within a nice RPM range). Unfortunately, a few hours later I got a CEL. I say "unfortunately", but it's actually kinda what I was hoping would happened. Pulled a code P0303. I think I'm gonna change out the valve cover gaskets and spark plug gaskets for starters. Then replace the spark plug wires. The reason I'm tackling those first is because I noticed a little oil in the spark plug boot. Not a ton, but enough that I figure I should tackle it now before it becomes a problem. Do you think I should change the plugs as well? They're only a few weeks old. They're not too expensive so it wouldn't be a problem to change them, so I'd rather change them now if need be vs having to go back in after the fact to swap them out. If none of the above work, I'll look into the coil pack, which I'm hoping is not the issue. With 180k miles on the Legacy, the gaskets and wires are probably due for a change anyway, so it won't be the end of the world if they don't work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwm5094 Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Replace the ocv on that side head. It's cheap insurance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayInVA Posted February 14, 2013 Author Share Posted February 14, 2013 Will look into it. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 The plugs should be fine. You may want to check them, but if they look ok put them back in. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapSlo Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Might want to do a compression check to rule it out if nothing else. And did you check the gap on the plugs you installed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayInVA Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 Does anyone have a preferred vendor and/or brand for the valve cover gasket kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwm5094 Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 I buy all parts through infamous. 9 times outta 10 you will have it next day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaSprinter24 Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 my lgt has just started doing this same rough idle your talkin about jay but I haven't started to try nd figure out whats going on. I still don't have a CEL yet and its buggin me out. let us kno what fixes the issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobb Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 If I let mine just pull itself along it does it too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zach0215 Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 i just picked up a 05 legacy 2.5i sedan, on start up it idles fine and when warmed up it runs at about 4-500rpms and if i rev the engine to 3k and keep it there, theres a loud rattling comimg from the engine, and when i accelorate a little hard theres no noise till i let off the throttle to shift,and when feathering the throttle at 3k the rattle is there, also at idle it sounds like it has a loss of compression, my co worker listened to it and said it could be a stuck rocker, but im assuming its a bent valve, the timing belt was replaced before i had it, maybe it skipped timing? who ever reads this please get back to me, i have a video on my instagram if anyone has one, user name is oh5legacy my profile pic is my car (aspen white) thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp233 Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Valve cover gaskets are cheap. Subaru or Fel-Pro If you got a code, follow the directions for that code.... Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4 Beta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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