Rhitter Posted December 16, 2015 Share Posted December 16, 2015 (edited) Rhitter / OB2.5XT I figured it's about time I documented everything I have done to my car in one place. I am sure I am forgetting many things, but here is a good starting point. http://i.imgur.com/iOVTMpU.jpg http://i.imgur.com/QevaCk5.jpg ELECTRONICS/TUNING Cryotune Performance Opensource E-tune TURBO/INDUCTION/EXHAUST VF52 – Pure Turbos PTP Turbo Blanket Grimmspeed catted ceramic coated downpipe Grimmspeed heat shield OEM TMIC w/BP mod Grimmspeed Electronic Boost Control Solenoid Nameless performance 5 inch Outback mufflers w/ 12 inch Vibrant resonator added in-line to OEM resonator Grimmspeed TMIC Tomei ELh and 3 bolt up-pipe DRIVETRAIN/ENGINE/FUEL KDT903 Rear Differential Bushing Inserts (rear/upper mount only) Kartboy short throw shifter Kartboy front shifter bushings Kartboy rear shifter stay bushing Fumoto F105 Quick Oil Drain Valve DW65c Fuel Pump Group N Transmission Mount Group N Motor Mounts Group N Pitch stop Mount KillerB Oil Pan, Pickup, and Baffle CP Pistons 99.75 King Main Bearings King Rod Bearings ARP head studs 11mm STI oil pump SouthBend Stage 2 daily KoyoRad Hyper-V Grimmspeed LWCP SUSPENSION/BRAKES Bilsten HDs Front JDM SPEC.B springs, Rear KSRS-29 springs Front LGT calipers with Centric Premium rotors and Stoptech Street pads Rear LGT calipers with Stoptech drilled rotors and Stoptech Street pads Technafit Stainless Steel Brake Lines Whiteline Roll-Center/Bump Steer Kit (KCA313) Whiteline LCA Bushings (KCA334) Whiteline Camber and Toe arms (KTA124) LGT Rear Upper Control Arms with Whiteline Camber Bushings (KCA399) Grimmspeed Master Cylinder Brace Eibach Front (25mm) and Whiteline Rear (20mm) adjustable Sway Bars Kartboy Front Endlinks AVO RSB Reinforcement Brackets Whiteline universal greaseless Front Sway Bar Alignment: -1.6* Camber up front, -1.1* Camber in the rear, zero toe at all four corners Steering Whiteline Steering rack bushings Perrin steering knuckle lockdown 2015 STI steering rack WHEELS/TIRES OEM rims. Plasti-Dip Black DWS 225/55/17 tires EXTERIOR/INTERIOR Diode Dynamics Cool white interior LEDS GrimmSpeed License Plate Relocation Kit Plasti-dip grill surround Hidden Hitch 2 inch LaminX fog covers yellow Sound deadening (doors and floorpan) SRP Pedals Redline eBrake, shift, and center armrest cover PENDING INSTALLATION Whiteline rear subframe bushings Moog endlinks (rear) Edited August 14, 2017 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 (edited) This will be a massive picture dump, will try and document a lot of what I have done over the years: I bought the car mostly because I got sick of snow cables and I wanted something that would be fun to work on. This is the first car I have really modified. I had a 2002 mustang V6 that I did suspension + RSB + wheels and tires. That was essentially my experience with modifying prior to this car. Brand new to me at 67k miles: Subaru certified preowned http://i.imgur.com/Rt3UpwI.jpg Stock height http://i.imgur.com/JtHI7Nd.jpg Through discussions with primary BAC5.2 I lowered the car a few months after I bought it. I think I was one of the few OBXTs to be lower on this board in 2011 (a lot has changed since then) Bilsten HDs with JDM Spec.B wagon springs. .75 inch spacer in the front and 1.5 inch spacer in the rear. I still wanted some extra height for carrying around three downhill bikes. Original thread for lowering http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/obxt-bilstein-xt-167299.html Lowered + fun with plasti dip http://i.imgur.com/NiDwgAq.jpg In it's element (but not really, I had to buy chains to get out of there) http://i.imgur.com/O95AXXh.jpg My brother in law 3d printed me a cup holder http://i.imgur.com/VhLGKen.jpg Adding sound deadening to the doors. I did all 4 and the hatch area. RAAmat and PS Ensolite. This made the stock speakers sound A LOT better and reduced on throttle noise from the OEM exhaust. http://i.imgur.com/KXrbXVt.jpg Decided to do a track day for a LegacyGT.com bay area meet. But in order for me to do that, I had to put on better brakes! http://i.imgur.com/wWwdhEi.jpg 12 hours later SS lines, Stoptech pads, and LGT calipers. From the track (because a the Corvette is an honorary Subaru) http://i.imgur.com/Bp4sB0l.jpg Where I did most of my work. Painted silver grill to match the body and wings black (most of it is plasti-dip) also added yellow fog covers. http://i.imgur.com/FH1Qcyi.jpg The back sagged a lot when loaded with gear and people and dogs. Installed KSRS-29 springs to fix that. They do a great job. I was able to remove the 1 inch spacer, so know I just have 1/2 inch spacer in the rear. http://i.imgur.com/8IHHKnJ.jpg Decided to go Stage 2. This was my attempt to protect my CV boot. http://i.imgur.com/Wykqosq.jpg This is where it gets expensive. I had finished tuning Stage 2. In December 2014 I started I got a misfire CEL once when it was really cold. Started monitoring it. Misfire on #4. Compression and leakdown test revealed the ringland was broken. Refer to Magnuson's thread where he tests my pistons. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/wants-see-some-tests-done-material-properties-oem-subaru-pistonsi-245371.html I decided to ship my car from the bay area to Infamous performance for the rebuild. Picked it up after 3 weeks. http://i.imgur.com/c2y9nzE.jpg Gutted the interior to add sound deadening to the floor pan (honestly probably wasn't worth it, the doors totally were though) http://i.imgur.com/v9lO47n.jpg Moved into a house and got a garage to work in! http://i.imgur.com/beEI4kR.jpg Then had to reboot my CV joint (I guess my heat wrap and bolt on heat shield didn't work) and whiteline tierod boot. Edited January 18, 2017 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted December 16, 2015 Author Share Posted December 16, 2015 Reserved2 My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Look who jumped on the build thread wagon! Glad to see you're finally documenting everything, I had no idea you were running forged internals. Props to you, sir. Still really liking your suspension. Any rub as it sits now? That looks really close to where mine sits, maybe .5" lower. MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted December 17, 2015 Author Share Posted December 17, 2015 (edited) Yep, when #4 went I followed M Sprank's advice and he rebuilt with forged. Tiniest bit of rub on the front inner fender liner at full lock. Debating pulling out the spacers and going more low. I was at that height mostly because of fire roads for Mountain biking and everyone I was biking with has sort of lost interest. Edited December 17, 2015 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soloz2 Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 Looks good! Current: 16 Crosstrek Premium w/ Eyesight & 05 Outback XT 5MT Past Subies: 14 FXT Premium, 14 WRX hatch, 06 Legacy 2.5i SE 5MT, 98 Outback wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flinkly Posted December 25, 2015 Share Posted December 25, 2015 'Bout time! * Build Thread * 26.53 MPG - 12 month Average * Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 11, 2016 Author Share Posted January 11, 2016 Updated post #2, with a bunch of pictures and a quick rundown of the history of the car. It's missing soooo much that I have done. But it's a good start. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 Now you need a set of aftermarket wheels! 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 16, 2016 Author Share Posted January 16, 2016 Now you need a set of aftermarket wheels! My plan is to get winter tires, which will force me to get new wheels (cause can't run winter tires in the summer) From all the pictures I have seen I want to run something like 245/45/18 18x8(8.5) +35 (30). I have a 3/4inch spacer in front and a 1/2inch in back. I want to remove those for more low. It will require fender work in the rear to fit. I am having a lot of issues finding wheels I actually like though. Your Rota's look awesome and are high on my list (but a little heavy) I also really like the enkei rajin which come in 18x8+35. Not sure if 245 would look too bubbly on that. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted January 16, 2016 Share Posted January 16, 2016 I'd suggest a 245/40 or even 245/35 if you remove your spacers. I rubbed with 235/40 on stock struts and springs as well as the Koni set up until I rolled my fenders. You'll definitely have to do some work on the fronts to make them fit but I think it should look good. And yes my wheels are extremely heavy! 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX USA Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Stock injectors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 Yes, eventually will move to 1000s / GS intercooler and hope for Opensource flexfuel or I'll go with Delicious Tunings kit. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted April 9, 2016 Author Share Posted April 9, 2016 Half way installed my STI steering rack. Everything is out of the car. I need to put it all back slowly now. Unfortunately I destroyed my Whiteline tirerods. Do not hit the top with a hammer to knock them out. It bends the threads. My rack seems to be at 58 inches, the shortest the STI rack goes (with the thinner jam nuts) is 57.5 inches, so I think plenty without cutting any off. Here is the order I should have done: 1. Pull car onto ramp 2. Undo swaybar 3. Get off ramps / jack up car. 4. Remove center jack point (forgt it's real name) 5. Remove swaybar. 6. remove steering rack bolts / tie rod ends) 7. I undid the three 10 mm bolts to loosen the power steering reservoir which allowed me to drop the whole rack before I undid the hard lines. This made sure all the mess is in my catch can. To Do. 1. Remove old steering rack bushings from old rack, put them in new one. 2. figure out what centered in the rack is. 3. Install hardlines. 4 fight the rack into place. 5. redo the steps above to bolt it back into place. 5. Remove My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Well, the above STI rack, for sure. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Half way installed my STI steering rack. Everything is out of the car. I need to put it all back slowly now. Unfortunately I destroyed my Whiteline tirerods. Do not hit the top with a hammer to knock them out. It bends the threads. My rack seems to be at 58 inches, the shortest the STI rack goes (with the thinner jam nuts) is 57.5 inches, so I think plenty without cutting any off. But did you verify that the outer tie rod can seat against the jam nut at 57.5"? If the inner tie rod bottoms out inside the outer tie rod then your adjustment range is limited. A little extra adjustment range can't hurt, but I understand it can be scary to cut a few threads if you aren't used to it. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted April 9, 2016 Author Share Posted April 9, 2016 (edited) But did you verify that the outer tie rod can seat against the jam nut at 57.5"? If the inner tie rod bottoms out inside the outer tie rod then your adjustment range is limited. A little extra adjustment range can't hurt, but I understand it can be scary to cut a few threads if you aren't used to it. That's what is currently happening at 57.5inches the outer tie rod is bottomed out on the inner tie rod. I guess I'll use a dremel to remove a few threads. Edited April 9, 2016 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted April 9, 2016 Share Posted April 9, 2016 Thread two nuts on to the inner tie rod and use the outer nut as a guide for your cut-off wheel. After you make the cut spin the nuts on a bit more and file/debur the cut ends. Then when you remove both nuts they will clean up and reshape the threads. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted April 9, 2016 Author Share Posted April 9, 2016 (edited) Thread two nuts on to the inner tie rod and use the outer nut as a guide for your cut-off wheel. After you make the cut spin the nuts on a bit more and file/debur the cut ends. Then when you remove both nuts they will clean up and reshape the threads. Thanks! just cut and reinstalled the rack. Need to reattach tie rod ends and attach the hard lines. Unfortunately I wasn't able to attach the hard lines a d get the rack into place. Just not enough movement. The driver side hardlines were contacting the engine crossmember when I tried to push it into place. Time to reconnect the passenger side lines. Hopefully I can do it without dropping my downpipe. There is very little room there. Thoughts on using KCA313 balljoints with OEM STI tie tod ends? I assume it's fine. I guess I could do what I just did and cut off the damaged threads on the KCA313 kit. Hmm.... Edited April 9, 2016 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted April 11, 2016 Author Share Posted April 11, 2016 (edited) Some notes from my installation (cross post with Underdog's thread). STI steering rack ready to go in. I damaged my whiteline tie rods on removing them. Don't use a hammer on the upper portion, it squashed the threads. http://i.imgur.com/kVF19Uy.jpg?1 I removed the power steering reservoir from it's mount (three 10 mm bolts) this allowed me to drop the OEM rack down and undo the hardlines. There was no way I could get them undone without dropping the rack. http://i.imgur.com/iGbecSr.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Blvf0RK.jpg Also cut the tie rod ends to allow for a little more adjustment http://i.imgur.com/Xhs2lV8.jpg http://i.imgur.com/tEZSBiD.jpg Screwing the hardlines back on was very difficult. I couldn't lever the rack into position with them attached. Hardlines on the other side made contact. So I had get the rack up and then tighten them down. I was only able to hand tighten them using a crow's foot wrench head, but I haven't seen any leaks in 2 days, so it appears to have worked. http://i.imgur.com/k1dQvfj.jpg And this is where I can reliably get VDC to kick on in both directions. There is something about going down that seems to activate it more than going up. Turning it off does make a difference. http://i.imgur.com/dSHxiY7.jpg I am really enjoying the steering feel. My steering feel mods are: whiteline LCA inner and outer poly pushing, perrin steering dampener lockdown, and DAMD wheel. Adding the STI rack on top of that was perfect. The steering is a little heavier, but just feels right. This does not feel like a quick rack, it feels like how all Subaru's should come from the factory. Edited April 12, 2016 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outback2.5XT-05 Posted April 11, 2016 Share Posted April 11, 2016 Some notes from my installation (cross post with Underdog's thread). STI steering rack ready to go in.... And this is where I can reliably get VDC to kick on in both directions. There is something about going down that seems to activate it more than going up. Turning it off does make a difference.... I am really enjoying the steering feel. That's pretty awesome OB, and thanks for being the first in here to try it out! When you turn the vdc "off" can you still feel the power cut? Have you tried pulling the vdc fuse yet? There must be something that can be done to remedy this. This and the bts kit are my dream mods at the moment but if the car won't let you drive the way you want to then maybe I'll try an LGT rack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 (edited) It's not a power cut-off, it's dragging the brakes. The system thinks I am sliding. and drags one of the brakes hard. Using the VDC off button seems to help. However, the system isn't fully defeatable (as far as I have been able to figure out) I won't pull the fuse because unfortunately, ABS, VDC, and EDC (the brake bias) is all connected to the same fuse. Getting an alignment now. Will see if that helps with the system kicking in when VDC is turned on. Normal sedate driving it does not kick in. It's taking that section of road pretty quick that causes it to kick in, and only on the downhill sides. Underdog linked someone using an Arduino to scale up the signal when they went from a forester rack to this one. So, there are workarounds.... Edited February 26, 2017 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX USA Posted April 12, 2016 Share Posted April 12, 2016 I removed the upper coolant reservoir from it's mount (three 10 mm bolts) this allowed me to drop the OEM rack down and undo the hardlines. There was no way I could get them undone without dropping the rack. Don't you mean "power steering reservoir"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted April 12, 2016 Author Share Posted April 12, 2016 Don't you mean "power steering reservoir"? Yes, brain fail. Fixed. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dahoseman Posted May 8, 2016 Share Posted May 8, 2016 Nice build! I like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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