alaskajoel Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Okay to start off, the reason I bought this 6000k VOLT kit was because of my frustrations that some people thought were 'acceptable' with the DDM HID Kit. Basically, if the headlights were on when I started the car, they were guaranteed NOT to ignite. If I tried to turn them on with the car already started, there would be about a 50% chance one of them would not ignite. You can read about it here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...ht=hid+startup First off, here are some pictures of my setup prior to installation of the VOLT Kit. (4300k DDM) Color contrast between 4300k DDM HID and Stock Halogen Fogs http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC07924.jpg http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC07925.jpg Output color - Again, the reason I was changing kits was not in an effort to boost output, but to have a more reliable setup without dropping > $200 bucks. http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC07926-1.jpg Onto the VOLT Kit. I purchased this H7 kit from XenonExpert for $120 plus shipping. They're made from Japanese parts, and only require about 4.5 amps at initial start up in contrast to my DDMs which drew about 6.7 amps. (I've been using a Die-Hard Gold battery rated at 650CCA) http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC07934.jpg Box shipped from Canada via UPS (included random gloves) http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC07936.jpg After Install - Slightly more Blue hue, but nothing ridiculous. I was expecting more of a difference in output since the VOLT kit is 6000k and the DDMs were 4300k, but it was minimal; even on the road with street lamps, etc. http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC07940.jpg The most obvious difference in color comes at the Cutoffs. (notice I filled in my Squirrel Spotters while I had my bulbs out) http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC07942.jpg Shot of the front end http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC07944.jpg Again: http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd71/alaskajoel/DSC07947.jpg In terms of reliability, I did absolutely nothing different with the electrical setup of both kits. My DDM kit had a harness, and even with it they would not always light up. The VOLT kit on the other hand has done precisely what XenonExpert claimed they would - Start up EVERY TIME. If I remember correctly, I spent about the same on the VOLT kit as I did on my DDM kit; right around a hundred dollars. If the slightly more blue hue does not bother you, I would definitely recommend the VOLT kit over the DDMs. Other color options should be offered in the future for the VOLT kit as well. I have heard some people praise the DDM kit for it's lifetime warranty compared to the VOLT's 1 year, but I don't find it to be of as much value as people say. The DDM kit has to have the warranty to sell it's product, while much better brands (including philips) only offer a 1 year warranty...afterall, my Subaru had a 60k mile warranty, and a Kia has a 100k mile warranty, but which vehicle is more reliable Overall, I am very happy with my purchase, except for now I have a DDM kit sitting in my garage:mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naimouasta Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 i hope reliability is as good as they claim for this kit. ddm sucks. i bought two ddm kits just so i can have one installed while the other is out for warranty work. i wouldn't mind the warranty but the turn around time sucks. the ballasts for the ddm do look nicer aesthetically though imo. if reviews for this kit is good i might get it later down the road when its finally offered in 4300-4500k color bulb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denver133 Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Thanks for the write up. I have not switched to HIDs yet because of the complaints some have had. This obviously gave us another choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbrjason Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Thanks for the write up. I have not switched to HIDs yet because of the complaints some have had. This obviously gave us another choice. Likewise. I'm anxious to get HIDs, but that is one upgrade that has to be solid. I can't have my headlights not working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIPjeep2002 Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 So basically the problem with the DDM kit is that it draw 6.5 amps to start up? Is that the reason why sometimes they do not light? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xenon expert Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Glad you like the new kit. Our customers are really pleased with it. Thanks for your feedback! Oliver Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akscooby Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Looks nice. I am going to have to do that squirrel finder fix...it looks so much better. I've got two DDM thin ballast kits with harnesses, lows and fogs, and I love the light, but yeah, that one bulb just will NOT fire when starting the car... 3 outta 4 ain't bad, but it's annoying. Always have to double check to see if they are all on. Alaskajoel...can't help but notice you're in Texas...traitor!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskajoel Posted November 24, 2008 Author Share Posted November 24, 2008 Alaskajoel...can't help but notice you're in Texas...traitor!! Dude, I am a filthy no good traitor! I grew up in Juneau, lived in Sitka as well as the Kenai/Soldotna area. Moved to Texas and have heard nothing but "Texas is so big" crap. Drives me nuts - Texans know nothing about BIG:eek: Anyway, yes, I am assuming the problem with the DDMs was their inital draw. When I tested the DDMs before removing them from my car, their draw was just over 6.7 amps. The VOLT kit was between 4.3-4.8 Amps (It's been about 30 degrees outside too) I know what you guys mean regarding this having to be a "solid" mod. No headlights is crappy, which is why i've carried a set of H7 Halogens in the car just in case. The build quality on these is far superior to the DDMs, but don't get your self thinking you have an OEM setup here - I still like the HID setup in my IS300 better, but for the price these can not be beat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas569 Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 howd you do the fix? i just bought these too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akscooby Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 alaskajoel--you have my sympathies for being in TX How'd the squirrel finder fix go for you? I need to do that but am worried about it being over-complicated. I have no garage, and it's not exactly warm here at the moment. I don't want to have to bake my headlights apart to get at it. Were you able to do it without taking apart your headlights? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugblatterbeast Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 When I tested the DDMs before removing them from my car, their draw was just over 6.7 amps. The VOLT kit was between 4.3-4.8 Amps (It's been about 30 degrees outside too) Did you measure the current with a DMM or a current probe and a scope? The reason I ask is because most DMMs are too slow to capture the real startup currents. The initial current draw may have been even higher than what you measured and been the cause of your trouble. When I measured the Apexcone ballasts, the initial draw was above 14A, then quickly dropped to a lower value which eventually tappered to the steady state current after many seconds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskajoel Posted November 25, 2008 Author Share Posted November 25, 2008 Did you measure the current with a DMM or a current probe and a scope? The reason I ask is because most DMMs are too slow to capture the real startup currents. The initial current draw may have been even higher than what you measured and been the cause of your trouble. When I measured the Apexcone ballasts, the initial draw was above 14A, then quickly dropped to a lower value which eventually tappered to the steady state current after many seconds. I totally agree with you here - I did use a digital multimeter to measure the current, and while you're right about them being too slow to capture the real instantaneous startup current, I am only comparing them against each other, not another value. The multimeter gave a reading before the engine completed cranking, and it was that 'during crank' value that I was most interested in - not so much to get an accurate representation of current draw, but two values which I can compare. Quite frankly, I totally expect the inital draw to be larger then what I was able to read with my DMM but these numbers still show the comparitive difference between the cranking values of both kits. As for fixing the squirrel (spotters, finders, holes, whatever:lol:) I didn't have a problem doing them without taking my headlamps apart. Granted, I have pretty long/skinny fingers. A buddy of mine with a 07 Camry said to just bend the angled metal piece down to cover it up, so I tried that first. IMHO, it's better then not doing anything to them (you can see how prominent they are in my before pictures) In my after pictures, I have them bent down - They still let a little amount of light through, and leave mild glare, so I used the quick steel to fill them in completely. Again, I didn't have a problem doing it with a small mirror, and my thin fingers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akscooby Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 Cool...tis what I wanted to hear. Supposed to warm up to above freezing tomorrow, so maybe I'll do it then. That's t-shirt weather Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaos22B Posted November 27, 2008 Share Posted November 27, 2008 edit: wrong thread! my bad haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xenon expert Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 Some people have been asking if the VOLT kit is better than DDM kits. It's more reliable yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knucklecurve19 Posted December 15, 2008 Share Posted December 15, 2008 Looks great. Did you have to realign your headlight after installation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phenryiv1 Posted December 18, 2008 Share Posted December 18, 2008 Did you use the harness that everyone uses with the DDM kit in your install of the Volt kit? Patrick Looking for spacers or adapters to install aftermarket speakers in the doors of your Legacy? CLICK HERE or PM me! http://www.carstereoadapters.com./ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskajoel Posted December 18, 2008 Author Share Posted December 18, 2008 No, I did not realign my headlights (just closed the squirrel spotters) and I did not use the harness either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nemo Posted December 18, 2008 Share Posted December 18, 2008 Nice thread. I've been contemplating getting a HID kit but was worried about the HIDs not starting. I'd really like to get these in 4300K If you don't vote Trump, out, you're a bigot who hates america. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phenryiv1 Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 Still holding up and igniting if you have the headlights on when you start the car? Patrick Looking for spacers or adapters to install aftermarket speakers in the doors of your Legacy? CLICK HERE or PM me! http://www.carstereoadapters.com./ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05silvergt4me Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 I just got this kit as well. They light every time. They are a little more blue than I wanted. They do look cool though. Install is easy, finding a spot to put the wiring sucks. Haven't stared the car with the headlights on yet though, heard it was not a good idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djsnoops Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 how would the xtreme HIDs compare with the volt? and ddm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xenon expert Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 how would the xtreme HIDs compare with the volt? and ddm? DDM is a Chinese made kit and use Chinese parts. Its a good Chinese kit but it's not as good as HID kits like the Volt and Xtreme that use Japanese parts. Volt is made in Taiwan with Japanese parts. Xtreme is made in Japan with Japanese parts. Xtreme is still the best and most rugged kit out there. -2F tonight and I ALWAYS keep my lights to the on position. They light up every time. But if you're looking at 6000K, the VOLT kit is the best value around because it's super reliable and cheaper than Xtreme. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polo08816 Posted December 25, 2008 Share Posted December 25, 2008 DDM is a Chinese made kit and use Chinese parts. Its a good Chinese kit but it's not as good as HID kits like the Volt and Xtreme that use Japanese parts. Volt is made in Taiwan with Japanese parts. Xtreme is made in Japan with Japanese parts. Xtreme is still the best and most rugged kit out there. -2F tonight and I ALWAYS keep my lights to the on position. They light up every time. But if you're looking at 6000K, the VOLT kit is the best value around because it's super reliable and cheaper than Xtreme. I went with a Xtreme HID kit 4300k Phillips. http://www.kbcarstuff.com/Xtreme_HID_4300k_Philips_Xenon_HID_Conversion_Kits_p/xt-4kp.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djsnoops Posted December 26, 2008 Share Posted December 26, 2008 ^ have any pics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.