Front Wheel Bearing -- DIY Walkthrough

Thanks for posting this. Have been having a similar issue myself, but Subaru dealer has been unable to "replicate" the problem. Will return to dealer for further diagnosis. Appreciate the helpful explanation of the symptom!

-J

I just wanted to post this for people looking to replace their hubs in the future: don't go with the parts store hubs, get OEM. I had a RF hub going bad and the LF studs were messed up, so I went ahead and replaced both at about $109 out the door each. They worked great, car drives nicely, but my cruise doesn't work as a result. Now I have to order the OEM hubs, change them again, and return the Moog brand hubs to Advance Auto.

 

See this thread for more details: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/no-cruise-control-after-wheel-bearing-hub-change-181231.html

Replacing a front bearing on my 2006 2.5i with 172K. I've removed the bolts holding the hub on, but it's completely frozen. The axle is loose, but it's frozen to the steering knuckle. I hit the darn thing so hard that the bearing actually came apart. Any ideas how I can get this thing off?

Lots and lots of PB Blaster (or your penetrating oil of choice). Let it SOAAAAK. Then get a sledgehammer (around 5 lbs or so). Crowbar/prybar. Go. To. Town.

 

If that doesn't work, go to Lowes/Home Depot and grab a MAP gas torch. Should be around $30-40 IIRC. Heat that bitch up.

 

It won't be easy. But it will come off.

 

While you're at Lowes, get a couple metal brush attachments for your drill and go to town cleaning it up (after you get the bearing out of course). Then slather liberally with anti-sieze.

Put your old rotor on the lugs backwards tighten a few of the nuts down and brake out the sledge hammer.... Will save you lots of pain and suffering 1-3 whacks usually gets it the bigger/heavier the hammer the bed definitely a sledgehammer of some sort not a regular one.

 

 

I had one frozen on so bad I broke the rotor partially still came off quick but it is crazy how strong that corrosive bond can be.

 

 

Good luck.

Edited March 10, 2014 by ama0787

I feel really bad for you guys that have salt on the roads. I did all 4 bearings today, everything came apart and went in as described by OP. I did get the slide hammer and used an electric impact. Thanks for not using salt on the roads Colorado!

i cannot get my axel bolt off at all even with a 32mm socket, and an impact gun! why won't it come off?

i cannot get my axel bolt off at all even with a 32mm socket, and an impact gun! why won't it come off?

 

 

AeroKroil FTW

Just checking, but did you un-stake the knock-down-lock-down?

i cannot get my axel bolt off at all even with a 32mm socket, and an impact gun! why won't it come off?

 

Better impact gun? I had a stubborn one that came off with a lot of pb blaster, heat, and a 30" breaker.

Welp... looks like a need a new breaker bar.

 

looks familiar -- at least you weren't jumping up and down on it when it happened like i was...or were you?

30 minutes later, i forgot the $150 i just dropped on the 1/2" impact the instant it took that nut off in < 10 seconds.

Welp... looks like a need a new breaker bar.

 

 

looks familiar -- at least you weren't jumping up and down on it when it happened like i was...or were you?

30 minutes later, i forgot the $150 i just dropped on the 1/2" impact the instant it took that nut off in < 10 seconds.

 

This and you're done.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_11129.jpg

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/impact-wrenches/12-in-professional-air-impact-wrench-68424.html

Thank you very much for the great write up. We appreciate it.

 

A question please: Is there any wheel sensor calibration needed after the bearing install ?

If not, then please comment on what is the wheel sensor calibration the dealer always says is required when we change tires, or when it's out of cal?

They never charge for the cal though, I just wondered.

None from the FSM anyway. You may be referring to the Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS). There are sensors attached to your wheel valve stem that track changes (under-inflation) in each individual tire and report this back through the monitoring system to you as the driver via a dash warning light.

 

The TPMS can only store and monitor one set of sensors. So, if you install different wheels, with a different set of TMPS sensors, e.g., you're running a dedicated winter wheel and tire setup and a dedicated summer wheel and tire setup, then yes, those sensors need to be "synch'd" with your vehicle each time you swap your wheels out. If you're just changing tires, say on stock wheels, with stock TPMS sensors, then nothing needs to be done with the sensors because they're already synch'd with your vehicle.

Has anyone here ever replaced the bearing without the hub assembly? I realize it would have to be pressed out of the hub, but I'm buying a shop press anyway due to my Nissan Maxima needing both front bearings replaced. On that car it's a much more drawn out procedure which requires removing the bearing from the hub and pressing it in, etc. The reason I ask is I would think it would be a lot cheaper just buying the bearing without the whole hub assembly. Even better is with the stock hub, there wouldn't be the possibility of running into CC trouble.

Negs mate. More hassle than it's worth IME, and you'll likely have difficulty sourcing the bearings (if they're not destroyed during the press-out).

 

You won't find them separately on any sites that I'm aware of, but you'll still have to pull the hubs to press them out/in. Add-in the actual bearing costs, plus the time, and it's likely a wash cost-wise. Beyond that, they may not be as durable as the OEM replacements. Like everything else, YMMV and interested in what you find.

Negs mate. More hassle than it's worth IME, and you'll likely have difficulty sourcing the bearings (if they're not destroyed during the press-out).

 

You won't find them separately on any sites that I'm aware of, but you'll still have to pull the hubs to press them out/in. Add-in the actual bearing costs, plus the time, and it's likely a wash cost-wise. Beyond that, they may not be as durable as the OEM replacements. Like everything else, YMMV and interested in what you find.

 

 

Yep, pretty much what he said.

 

That's why the engineers came up with that solution, its much quicker service time to just R&R the hub. Pretty much the same with a axle/CV. Why waste labor time rebuilding it in the shop just swap axles and move on to the next car. Let someone else pay the labor in some sweat shop overseas where they pay the guy $2.00 a hour to replace the CV joint.

Doing my fronts soon. Did you guys reuse your 14mm bolts to re-attach the hub? I'm sure there going to be totally bunged up by the time I can wrestle them off. Anyone have a part #for the bolts? Thanks!

Yes, once the PB Blaster does its work they come out easy. The hard part is waiting for the PB to do its stuff on the joint where the hub slides into the spindle.

 

Remember to use anti-seize compound on the threads all the threads even the lug nuts.

PBB? AeroKroil or GTFO

^This. Nothing I've ever seen works as well as Le AeroKroil.

Bolt and washer assembly - 901130011 - QTY: 4 (2 per side)

 

Yep rebuilt my brakes today, bolt and washers.

Subaru Outback Sedan 3.0R owner here (basically a jacked up Legacy)

 

did the rear wheel bearings last year and made a huge difference. Mine vin was just past the recall so I did not qualify. I suspected the fronts were bad too and did just drivers side last week, its like a new car! Will do the final one soon.

 

Front and back install is practically identical.

 

I am surprised no one had backing plate issues like I did. I went with Timken bearings because I did not trust oem and noticed where the wheel studs mount, the plate is a little thinner which pushes the rotor back just enough to rub the backing plate. I just bent it and called it a day.

 

I'm in the rust belt so lots of PB Blast overnight and a small sledgehammer were in order. A couple hours per because of rust.