CovertRussian's 05 LGT Build Thread

Just found this article, looks like my accidental choice of the cast impeller water pump was actually a good one.

 

Q: You came across an interesting finding on the factory water pump. Would you care to disclose this information?

 

A: The water pump (front, right) is a cast turbine that flows more water, whereas the OEM piece (rear, left) allows for water to bypass the blades and does not flow as much water. It is one of our trade secrets of engine building and you are first to hear about it.

 

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Water%20Pump/CIMG0744.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Water%20Pump/CIMG0745.jpg~original

Since EJ255's have plastic intake manifolds Subaru decided to use rubber o-rings for sealing the manifold to TGV's (probably because plastic manifold can't be torqued to same specs as aluminum with metal gaskets). After 10 years rubber will dry out and compress, which can lead to boost leaks. My learning views constantly would show +5 to +10 in 0-<5.60 Airflow ranges, which a lot of people mentioned could be a boost leak.

 

Intake Manifold Gaskets Part Number: 14035AA492

You will need 4, they should run you up about $20.

 

I replaced them by leaving the intake manifold on and just propping it up with a big screw driver.

 

100k Mile ones on left, new ones are on right. New ones are different design, but looks at the height difference!

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/IM%20Gaskets/CIMG1181.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/IM%20Gaskets/CIMG1183.jpg~original

 

Here is how I replaced them, lifted with a screw driver (after unscrewing all of the bolts), then just using a small flathead to pull them out.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/IM%20Gaskets/CIMG1184.jpg~original

 

 

I did a virtual dyno run yesterday, had to let engine cool down, replace VC gasket, IM Gasket and let the RTV dry, thus did the second post replacement run today. The temperatures were slightly different, but barometric pressure were about the same. Either way Virtual Dyno accounts for it if you fill the information out.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/IM%20Gaskets/IMGaskets100kvsNew.png~original

 

The 18whp/34wtq gain is amazing, but I wont get too excited until I can replicate it a few times. Second run was 5*F warmer (based on Accuweather which is what I use for temp/pressures). Looking at the log, IAT was higher by 2*F on second run, so that should have hurt performance. Both runs had 1 IAM, but second run had much more timing, 10* more on average, which explains the power gains!

 

Update: Did another run (10 miles after ecu reset), this one at 73*F, power is back to normal, but torque stayed up. Reading STI forums it seems like it's common for these cars to make more power on fresh ecu reset, and with time ECU pulls back timing due to knock/false knock.

 

What probably happened is, with the boost leak, wastegate would be closed longer to maintain the target PSI, which would cause the turbo to overspin/go outside of it's efficiency. When the turbo is outside of it's efficiency map it just blows hot air, which causes timing to be retarded due to knock. I will drive around and see if my learning view for A range is still high.

Edited August 22, 2014 by covertrussian

I seem to recall that your previous research told you that the cast impeller flowed less--but now this article claims that it flows more...?

 

Which is it? I'm genuinely curious since I'll be picking up my TB parts here shortly...

 

Looking back on my post, I found that the cast impeller has been superseded by the stamped one. Natural thought is the newer part number is better, but looking at it now it seems like Subaru made the switch because of cost.

 

Doing research now, it seems like the stamped impeller cavitates easier. I can see that, we have the same issue in Nissan SR20 world. But we are not lucky enough to have a cast impeller version, instead we put an underdriving crank pulley on it.

 

See these two threads, where companies are selling these at $$$

http://www.rallispec.com/eng_wpu_rstr0350.html

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-liter-litre-factory-motor/222692-new-performance-water-pump-released.html

My passenger valve cover gasket has been leaking since day one. Finally got around to replace it, decided to to the compression test while I was at it. Still haven't figured out which cylinder is which: 135, 140, 133, 135.

 

Part Numbers

OEM RH Gasket: 13270AA190

OEM LH Gasket: 13272AA140

OEM Half Moons: 11051AA070

OEM Spark Tube Gasket: 13293AA051

Beck/Arnley Spark Tube Gaskets (2 Per Pkg): 039-6592

Click-R Type Pliers for Hose Clamps

 

Spark plugs removed:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/VC%20Gaskets/CIMG1161.jpg~original

 

Subaru special clamps forced me to buy a special tool...

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/VC%20Gaskets/CIMG1162.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/VC%20Gaskets/CIMG1163.jpg~original

 

Removed all but one easy to get to bolt incase the valve cover wanted to fall off easily.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/VC%20Gaskets/CIMG1165.jpg~original

 

Always a good idea to sort bolts in the order they were

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/VC%20Gaskets/CIMG1166.jpg~original

 

This is where my heart stopped, that's one sludgy looking valve cover..

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/VC%20Gaskets/CIMG1167.jpg~original

 

Here is why I'm terrified of sludge, this was one of my first cars that the previous owner never changed the oil on.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Sentra%20SE-L/Oh%20Beautiful%20Engine/Cimg8865.jpg~original

 

Looking at the engine I was relieved to see golden stained metal engine... whew.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/VC%20Gaskets/CIMG1169.jpg~original

 

Pooped the half moons out (lift them up and out, not side to side). Kind of stupid for Subaru to use plastic individual ones, on my SR20 they are rubber and are part of the valve cover gasket.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/VC%20Gaskets/CIMG1173.jpg~original

 

Sprayed it down with some brake parts cleaner and cleaned the old rtv off the head.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/VC%20Gaskets/CIMG1175.jpg~original

 

New gaskets... OEM main, and aftermarket spark plug tube gaskets since OEM's are way overpriced.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/VC%20Gaskets/CIMG1177.jpg~original

 

Installed into Valve cover and applied generous amount of RTV (not pictured) to avoid any more leaks.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/VC%20Gaskets/CIMG1180.jpg~original

 

After that bolted it all up and let it sit overnight since RTV has a 24hour cure time.

Edited December 30, 2014 by covertrussian

Interesting. Seems like what you did is probably the cheapest option for a cast impeller then?

 

Correct, plus people are saying that cast impeller ones last longer. 21111AA026 Should do the trick, they go for around $120 with gasket.

I love how much detail you put into your build thread. Makes things easier to follow for the newbs in some of us.

Thanks for the photos and posts. Huge help.

The heads are cast, and then machined for the cams, all the way through, hence the halfmoon holes.

 

Looking at his last picture of the VC, you want to run a small bead of Ultra black on the heads everywhere to the right of the offset center holes. Put it on the VC everywhere to the left. (like a 50/50 split, each side.) Go AROUND the bolt holes, not under, not across. Your bead should run to the outermost side of the VC.

 

It's not necessary to let it sit overnight. Press VC gasket into VC, and bolt up. There should only be a little bit of press-out. If there's a ton of it squeezing out, you used too much. Torque to spec using a 1/4 drive ratchet, if possible. Seriously, you don't wanna shear those shoulder bolts. Let any excess dry, and peel off later.

 

Those purple clamps are a bitch. I hate them. Especially the one for the PCV tube on the block.

Thanks guys, glad I can help, I'm still a newb myself (by amount of years I've been working on cars), so I understand how painful it is.

 

Drove the car a little more today (was letting it stand/oil finish dripping out from VC gasket change). The car has transformed completely, it feels a lot peppier, even with my reduced throttle DBW linear map. I'm surprised that it feels this different even under vacuum to low boost, usually gaskets start really leaking at higher PSI levels.

 

Stopped by the dealership to buy a new throttle body gasket (similar O ring design as Intake mani ones), because I'm sure it's compressed after 10 years too.

Edited August 11, 2014 by covertrussian

The update gaskets are considerably different. Good move replacing that one as well.

Did you replace both gaskets or just the one?

The heads are cast, and then machined for the cams, all the way through, hence the halfmoon holes.

 

That's understandable, they have to have the holes, my Nissan has the same thing, it's just the rubber VC gasket has the half moons built into it, they are made out of same rubber as the rest of the gasket.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/00%20G20t%20KH3/SR20VE/Swap/CIMG9094.jpg

 

Looking at his last picture of the VC, you want to run a small bead of Ultra black on the heads everywhere to the right of the offset center holes. Put it on the VC everywhere to the left. (like a 50/50 split, each side.) Go AROUND the bolt holes, not under, not across. Your bead should run to the outermost side of the VC.

 

It's not necessary to let it sit overnight. Press VC gasket into VC, and bolt up. There should only be a little bit of press-out. If there's a ton of it squeezing out, you used too much. Torque to spec using a 1/4 drive ratchet, if possible. Seriously, you don't wanna shear those shoulder bolts. Let any excess dry, and peel off later.

 

On my Nissan I'll drive it after an hour no problem, but I didn't want to risk it on the Subaru, since it's such a pita to install! The label on RTV said fully cures in 24 hours so I let it sit about 23 before driving it

 

Those purple clamps are a bitch. I hate them. Especially the one for the PCV tube on the block.

 

The tool that I got seemed to have made it easy to rehook them (though I did have to use it backwards to get it to work). I need to go back and rehook the PCV valve since I ziptied them ha.

 

The update gaskets are considerably different. Good move replacing that one as well.

 

I wonder why the new one is better, seems like less rubber to seal against the manifold. Will see how the TB one compares when it arrives.

 

Did you replace both gaskets or just the one?

 

I replaced only the passenger VC gasket, will wait until the other one leaks before I touch it, who knows engine might come out before that happens.

Taller... Seems like different material and both of these combined seem to keep it from leaking in the long run. I replaced them looking for a fix to a stumble that would come up on occasion... That fix ended up being the OVCS, replaced as a pair.

Taller... Seems like different material and both of these combined seem to keep it from leaking in the long run. I replaced them looking for a fix to a stumble that would come up on occasion... That fix ended up being the OVCS, replaced as a pair.

 

Ah so the gaskets are taller from the get go then. It almost seems too odd to have the gaskets be so compressed.

Hoping your not thinking I'm talking about the valve cover gaskets.

 

I'm talking about the intake manifold and TB gaskets. Seems to me the old ones were just not tall enough. If they were we would probably not be replacing them with the updated version. Plus the material change probably to allow for a little more crush for a better seal.

Hoping your not thinking I'm talking about the valve cover gaskets.

 

I'm talking about the intake manifold and TB gaskets. Seems to me the old ones were just not tall enough. If they were we would probably not be replacing them with the updated version. Plus the material change probably to allow for a little more crush for a better seal.

 

Yes sir talking about Intake manifold gaskets with you and VC gaskets with MrTris, gets confusing .

 

I want to see the factory IM gaskets, old version, to compare against. I'm just curious if they shrink overtime or if it's a design issue to begin with, I'm sure it's both though.

Agreed it's probably a little of both. Not tall enough and material used shrank over the heat cycles.

Naa, its a design issue. When I saw my orange ones next to the old black ones, there was a good 1/8" height diference. Its really noticable.

Did a Virtual Dyno yesterday after driving for a bit, slightly past the usual starting point, did 208whp/230wtq. I usually do virtual dyno on fresh reflash (and either set IAM to 1 or, drive couple miles to get it to be 1). Thus it reducing power might because of self learning, but torque is definitely up and you can feel it. I'll do another virtual dyno run after I replace TB gasket and do a fresh reflash.

 

EDIT: Just saw this thread, looks like it might be self learn pulling power back indeed. Though in this run timing was about the same.

Edited August 15, 2014 by covertrussian

Figured it's not a bad idea to replace the throttle body gasket, seeing how much IM gaskets helped. The TB seal is $12 at the dealership.

 

Throttle Body Seal Part #: 16175AA331

 

You can see the gasket tab fairly easily. The oil buildup on the throttle body is a good way to tell that your gasket is leaking.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/CIMG1188.jpg

 

Pull the intercooler to gain access to the throttle body

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/CIMG1191.jpg

 

With the intercooler out it's a good idea to check on your turbo inlet pipe, I noticed a nice notch in mine, will have to plan on replacing it soon I guess.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/CIMG1190.jpg

 

Once you pull the throttle body coupler, you will see 4 bolts that hold the throttle body to the manifold. Unbolt the blow off valve's recirculation hose to gain access to top right bolt.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/CIMG1192.jpg

 

Pulled the TB out of the way, it wont go too far because the TB heater hoses are still connected. Definitely has been leaking oil for a while.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/CIMG1194.jpg

 

Finally enough access to remove the stock gasket

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/CIMG1195.jpg

 

Old gasket on the left, new gasket on the right. As you can see, the stock one is definitely compressed a good bit.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/CIMG1196.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/CIMG1200.jpg

 

Install everything in the reverse order and your good to go.

 

For kicks and giggles measured the stock TB, looks like it's a 60mm throttle body. Though it seems a little small for a 2.5L motor.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/CIMG1202.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Throttle%20Body/CIMG1205.jpg

This is almost a 1 stop shop thread here. Not driving my car for about 3-4 years made me remember I have lost of other things to fix after it gets running again. Rotors and pads at the minimum.

Any of you have issues with leaking hood scoop? Every time it rains I find water in two main spots of the engine. Not sure if hoodscoop needs resealing or what

 

Passenger Side:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Hoodscoop/20140812_082656.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Hoodscoop/20140812_082700.jpg

 

Driver Side:

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Hoodscoop/20140812_082710.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Exterior/Hoodscoop/20140812_082718.jpg