Aftermarket sub under the seat?

So I've been searching for the last day and couldn't really find any definitive answers. I haven't taken it out to look but I'm wondering (if its possible) if anyone has replaced the oem underseat sub with an after market one in the oem box that's around the same ohms/wattage, or is the sub/box one piece?

Why do you want to replace it? Not loud enough? Doesn't sound good? Or has it died on you? If you want a replacement, there are plenty of cheap aftermarket ones that will do a better job.

 

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I assume an OEM under-seat subwoofer would be an all-in-one unit, correct? If so, you don't need to match watts or ohms as it should be both a subwoofer and an amp built into one unit. All you need is to hook up the wires (power, ground, remote, and signal/RCA). If it's an all-in-one unit, the crossover is probably done internally, not at the head unit (stereo) side. So you could do any wattage you want. That would match matching its physical dimensions the most important aspect.

 

Of course you could always get a little deeper into car audio and do a trunk-mounted amp and subwoofer box.

The OEM sub and box are tiny. I think the speaker is 4" or something. And it's all wired up with specific plugs, etc, for plug and play.

 

 

There is no way you will be able to fit anything other than the OEM sized contraption under your seat. Certainly not a decent bass driver like a long throw 6" speaker in a matched enclosure.

 

Best to construct something to go in your rear trunk tray, or molded or bolted in to the side of the trunk.

I'm pretty sure the sub doesn't even have a designated amp. It just runs off of the H/U. And I know I could go the whole trunk route. Just like the trunk space and it would be nice not to have to do all the wiring. Wasn't sure if someone has replaced the stock sub with a higher quality speaker of the same size/power range.

If that's the case, that stinks. Dump it and go with a trunk amp and sub. Hopefully the stock head unit has RCA outs?

Nope. Gotta do a line out converter or a jl cleansweep or similar product

Nope. Gotta do a line out converter or a jl cleansweep or similar product

 

Ouch.

 

Well then it's time to decide how important car audio is to you. If you can/want to dump $500 or more into your car, it's time to go aftermarket head unit, amp, and sub. Because a converter will sound crappy (but fine for bass), and a drop-in all-in-one speaker-level, amp, digital processing unit would be expensive.

im thinking of selling my JL Cleansweep let me know if interested in it, i went that route and ditched the OEM subwoofer

I was looking for a little more thump over the oem. I removed my driver's seat to get my all-in-one key out from the seat rail...and discovered the oem sub has gain and crossover adjustments. I put the gain about 2/3 up (from just under 1/2 set oem)...and it added enough ummph to it to tide me over until I can cutup a stock h/u to add an aftermarket double din.

 

You may be able to see the controls (screw head size) if you push your seat back and push up on the carpet flap.

 

I know it's kind of ghetto, but

Oh, don't turn the gain up all the way either...it makes it look cool b/c the little 'sub' dances all over, but obviously it sounds like poop.

Oh Niice. I'll have to at least do that for now. Thanks

I came across this sub from blaupunkt:

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Blaupunkt-300-Watt-8-Inch-Profile-Subwoofer/dp/B008FYFBOI/ref=sr_1_3?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1385493457&sr=1-3]Amazon.com: Blaupunkt Blue Magic XLf 200 A 300-Watt 8-Inch Low Profile Active Subwoofer System: Car Electronics[/ame]

 

Thinking it may work under the seat given that it has a high-level 8-pin input... thoughts?

Actually, looks like the harness connections don't match up... that complicates things a bit.