How To: Replace/Rebuild torn CV boot and/or Axle

I just replaced the PS axle with this one: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NZ91S2]Amazon.com: DriveTech SB2043 CV Drive Axle: Automotive[/ame]

 

Right around $60 to my door. Fit is perfect, only 100 miles so far but 0 issues. took about an hour start to finish. I'll be buying a boot kit and reboot my factory axle as a back up/preventative for the DS axle. The dealership wanted $140 for both inner and outer boots, bands and grease. I told them to pound sand, I'd find it at an online dealership for a fraction of that price.

I have read 30 pages, and i know what to do, (cant get the frontaxles completly in to the gearbox) But what stands LCA for? my english is not too god..

I just replaced the PS axle with this one: Amazon.com: DriveTech SB2043 CV Drive Axle: Automotive

 

Right around $60 to my door. Fit is perfect, only 100 miles so far but 0 issues. took about an hour start to finish. I'll be buying a boot kit and reboot my factory axle as a back up/preventative for the DS axle. The dealership wanted $140 for both inner and outer boots, bands and grease. I told them to pound sand, I'd find it at an online dealership for a fraction of that price.

 

As far as the Subaru parts department kits, there appears to be an expensive part number ($90+), and a cheap ($35) part number for the inner boot kit. not sure why. I suspect your parts counter guy found the first and didn't know to keep looking...

Is it absolutly a neccesity to change the axle seal by the trans?

Cant i just reuse it?

I wouldn't touch the axle seal unless you got a leak there after replacing the axle.

I wouldn't touch the axle seal unless you got a leak there after replacing the axle.

I agree.

I agree too, I would have one on hand in case you ruin one. But its not necessary. I never touched mine and still good a year later

 

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Thanks

Now if only i can break this axle nut free

If you do remove the axle seal, and you don't have a proper seal puller tool, tape up a 3/8"-1/2" wide flat-blade screwdriver with heavy vinyl tape. Pay particular attention to each corner and any metal edges and make sure those are well-coated with tape.

 

Feel inside the seal where the seal seat and the seal meet. Insert your taped-up screwdriver partially into the seal, so that it's inside the outer seal, not against the back edge of seal where the seal and the seat meet. If you put your screwdriver in too deep, you run the risk of scraping your seal seat when you pry against the back edge.

 

Pry gently on the seal, relocating your screwdriver further and further to the right or left, until you've pried around the entire circumference. After the first "pry" you should see the seal working loose. Keep it up until it's all the way out.

 

And a hard plastic pill bottle (right-sized) works pretty well for setting the new seal if you don't have the installation tool.

Thanks

I just left it

Seemed fine

Actually wasnt too bad at all

I went w the leaving the ball joint alone

And removing the strut method

Thanks again tho

Yea just used a screwdriver

Just picked up my first Legacy a couple of weeks ago. 155k one owner. Bought the car for my daughter, but she "didn't want a wagon". I love the car and have decided to drive it through the winter.

 

Anyhow...Passenger side boot was torn and spraying grease. Upon closer look, both front axles were green oem . Brought to my mechanic thinking he would replace boot. He ended up replacing entire shaft with reman from cape cod axle and driveshaft. I was pissed bc I wanted to keep original axles over remans. My ocd personality won't let me believe that the reman will be fine. After expressing this to my mechanic, he swears up and down that this was the best choice and is not like the "chinese $hit from auto zone". However, this thread has me going crazy!

 

I've now discovered that the drivers side boot is compromised too. Should I just attempt a reboot? My mechanic tells me to replace with a rebuilt. Who do I trust...him or "Justin" from AWD Auto?

 

My mechanic is a professional at a local shop and a family friend that I normally trust completely. I'm sure my dilemma is touched upon somewhere on this website, but since I'm new here, this was the closest thread I could find.

 

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

If you are footing the bill, it will cost more to reboot it. If you have a problem with the remanufactured shafts, take it back and the shop will fix it. If the original axle boot has allowed a lot of water intrusion, especially during winter with salted roads, you might as well just replace it because the bearings will likely have corrosion.

 

My preference is to reboot the shaft, but I do the work myself and the extra time for the fix is not worth the added expense for an entire new shaft (versus a boot kit).

I just replaced my DS oem axle with an SB2043 for 60$ shipped. So far so good. No vibration or other problems.

Had to change the whole axle cause my oem one was clicking on left turn, even after repacking the outer end with fresh grease. Strange failure after 77k...

 

fwiw, I am also a proponent of just changing the boot. I did change the inner boots on both sides (40k ago). But this time, had to change the whole thing.

Question for you guys. I replaced my Driver side axle and is it fully seated or does it need to go in more? http://webpages.charter.net/never_idle_azn/images/axle.jpg Edited December 8, 2015 by sumdummoney

Can't see your picture. Compare with the passenger side. But yeah, pain in the butt to get that sucker in fully .

I was able to see your pic.It looks like it is fully seated. A picture from a different angle would help though. But as I said, compare with the passenger side.

I was able to see your pic.It looks like it is fully seated. A picture from a different angle would help though. But as I said, compare with the passenger side.

Comparing it to the passenger side it needs to go in more. I don't know what else to do short of a big hammer

Mmmh. not sure then. fwiw, I did use a hammer to get my sb2043 driver side axle in. I made sure the drive shaft was a straight as possible though when doing so. Then I kinna gently tap on the end of the axle and it finally got in.

Mmmh. not sure then. fwiw, I did use a hammer to get my sb2043 driver side axle in. I made sure the drive shaft was a straight as possible though when doing so. Then I kinna gently tap on the end of the axle and it finally got in.

After trying a bunch of different ways to hit the axle it was not going in any further so I just decided to try as is, drove around a little bit with no vibrations or noises. I will just have to keep an eye out for leaks. Thanks again!

I see. Yeah, keep an eye for oil leak or vibrations. Good luck!

just snapped the bolt off for the lower ball joint / pinch. never did get the ball joint to separate. had to remove bolts from shock tower to do cv axle. should have just done that to begin with being from ohio and the salty region.

Yea i hear ya

I was not messin with my ball joint

I prefer the strut method!

Just make sure u mark the bolts so u dont need an alignment!

Guys and Gals, so after searching I found Marty @ http://www.raxles.com/ (352)-377-5751) just ask for him. He has been building OEM Subaru cv shafts for 20 years and I explained about the nightmares of aftermarket cv shafts. He explained that the china cv shafts are junk, along with the autozones, cardone and what ever else. I I do have them my garage, and will be installing them in my car. My Legacy is a 2.5i, but I asked and he has them for all model's.

 

I know some have had good luck with the other 60 to 80 dollar axels, and that is great. But for the price or OEM remans I cannot beat that. I wil get some pics of them soon, out of the box.

Ok so afaik

Auto zone sells both

Oem reman which is what im useing w no issues

And the new crappy ones

Just saying there is a diff.