oxymoron36 Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 my fear has been realized, i have to replace my headgaskets on my 97 legacy gt 2.5L engine. can anyone give me a hand as to where to start with this project. any links, advice, or instructions would be much appreciated thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Pull the motor if you can. You can do the headgasket replacement with a basic set of tools. The only "special" tools you need are a 14mm 12 star socket and a torque wrench that can do 10-100ish ftlb. Buy a haynes manual and download the factory service manual. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 this would make a great sticky for someone to make. not me. im noob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Maybe I will take pictures of the rebuild process for the headgaskets on the motor I am doing a complete rebuild on -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 No offense to OP or anyone else, but if you NEED a picture tutorial to do an engine job, you should NOT be doing an engine job. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted August 3, 2011 I Donated Share Posted August 3, 2011 If you have never pulled a head off before, a Subaru probably isn't the first one you should do. If you want to do it yourself, I suggest having someone with some experience there to help walk you through it. Its not a "hard" job, however the consequences of a mistake can cost you your engine (biggest risk is doing the timing). Here is a step by step Pull engine Set engine at TDC Remove timing components Remove intake Remove spark plugs Remove valve covers Remove heads Take heads to machine shop Put it all back together -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 no offense brok, but it is not TDC. please edit your post and i will do the same here. the correct timing marks will place all 4 pistons at mid stroke. two heading up and two heading down (or more correctly in and out). that way no matter what the cams/valves do they will not touch the pistons, assuming that is possible and i'm not sure it is on the ej25d. folks who work on other makes of cars always use the term TDC. it must be a standard when putting on most timing belts, but it is not appropriate for subarus. there is a mark on the crank for TDC, but it is not used for installing the timing belt. TDC will place 2 pistons right next to the heads. not an ideal position for an interference engine. for beginners: if you have never done a timing belt on a subaru, regardless of how many other cars and trucks, head jobs or total rebuilds you have done, DO NOT assume you can get the timing right just by looking at the sprockets. the marks are mis-leading unless you have done your home work and KNOW what you are looking for. for some folks, even after they have been told twice that they probably used the wrong marks, they still swear up and down the belt and the timing is right. then they learn it is not right. using the wrong timing marks can bend valves costing a lot of time and money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Here is link to FSM and other material that will guide you through. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/ Use ziploc type bags to hold screws etc as you remove. Label each bag. Take pics of engine before you start, especially the hose routings. it will save you time on reassembly. Do search both here and SLI and Nasioc, there have been some helpful threads there. Depending on mileage, you might as well do t belt, pulleys, and water pump. Tighten screws on back of oil pump.and tighten screws on oil separator plate on back of block. Leave the rear main seal alone if it is not leaking. If you have a plastic separator plate, replace with the now standard metal one. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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