5EAT Ask your Questions!?!

Ps. Amsoil ATF works great in the tranny!

Yeah, I have no clue whats going on. On the way home the AT OIL TEMP light started flashing, My drivers side rear axle just popped out of the rear diff while it was slipping too all of the sudden...

 

more searching. Sounds like i have pretty much the same problem as this guy. Driver side axle could be getting no power? Causing clutches to burn out, aka start slipping?

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5eat-shuddering-slipping-every-gear-190189.html

 

Interesting that it's the driver's side that popped out. I wonder if it's the direction of driveshaft rotation that makes that side more susceptible to problems. Anyway...

 

Get someone to pull that axle and check the stub and inside the diff. You should be able to see right away if the axle is damaged. You might be able to get by for a while without a trans rebuild if this is the problem and you get it fixed quick. Based on what happened to me, it WILL burn out your transfer clutches.

still having some slipping issues with my trans after doing my flush. Not sure if its tune related or what. Getting on an onramp in 2nd (cruising at 40mph then flooring to merge) very delayed shift from 2-3(manual mode didnt upshift let the car do it). Didnt bang or clunk into gear like before just didnt seem to catch when it shouldve. Recently reflashed to my cobb stage 1 93 map. Tryed to repeat in normal drive mode and didnt seem to slip. Any thoughts?

 

ive noticed an electronic sort of sound when i'm stopped and shift through the gears to check my trans fluid. sounds like a pump or maybe the gears moving? not sure what it is, or if its normal, or if its something that could be causing my issue. dont want to jump to stage 2 till i get this fixed. might unflash from stage 1 and see if it can be reproduced.. then take it to the dealer. I still have a warranty (thank god) but if i cant reproduce it while stock im pretty much out of luck. btw thank you guys for your help.

sorry for blowing this thread up, but could I be overboosting?

Log and find out.

 

Yea I'm going to. Didnt know if overboosting could possibly be causing my problem though. just saw the lower waste gate maps on COBB.

OK..... Question and hope to hear something other than horrid news >.<

 

noticed Yesterday that between 2nd & 3rd Gear has a noticeable vibration that depending on the RPMs can be pretty violent >.< I had an ATF Flush in January... admittingly I've been engine braking a good bit the past few days, cuz I haven't had the time to throw on new pads n rotors.

 

any ideas? Advice? Good news? lol realllyy don't wanna have to throw in a new Trans

Pads and rotors: $$ Trans repair/replace: priceless

 

Not a helpful post other than to make you lose sleep at night, but been there, done that.

 

I just did a preventative 10K pan drain/ fill after trans was slipping the shift from 3-4th upshift. It ended up being related to the very awkward tune limiting for my new motor break-in. Tranny figured out how to shift after 2 days of ** more spirited driving than completely out of boost for initial 200 miles motor break in.

 

Now, 600 miles later of very limited tune (max 5,500 rpms, 19psi boost) it'll now shift without a slip.

 

Hope your car is TCU adapting to your engine braking and nothing more... Hope so.

OK..... Question and hope to hear something other than horrid news >.<

 

noticed Yesterday that between 2nd & 3rd Gear has a noticeable vibration that depending on the RPMs can be pretty violent >.< I had an ATF Flush in January... admittingly I've been engine braking a good bit the past few days, cuz I haven't had the time to throw on new pads n rotors.

 

any ideas? Advice? Good news? lol realllyy don't wanna have to throw in a new Trans

 

I had a similar issue on my own car, 3rd was slipping and causing a major chatter. Pulled apart trans to find it was fried. I do not know whether this is your issue or not. But it would be wise to first confirm your trans fluid is fresh and at the correct hot running level before doing much else. Perhaps a TCU reset as well. I wouldn't engine brake a Subaru too much (in place of using the brake pedal, except maybe when coasting down a long mountain road). In theory, it should not be a problem. In reality, I have felt the trans shift weird afterwards. That's as simple as I can say it; a more complicated answer would shed no additional light.

 

Pads and rotors: $$ Trans repair/replace: priceless

 

Not a helpful post other than to make you lose sleep at night, but been there, done that.

 

I just did a preventative 10K pan drain/ fill after trans was slipping the shift from 3-4th upshift. It ended up being related to the very awkward tune limiting for my new motor break-in. Tranny figured out how to shift after 2 days of ** more spirited driving than completely out of boost for initial 200 miles motor break in.

 

Now, 600 miles later of very limited tune (max 5,500 rpms, 19psi boost) it'll now shift without a slip.

 

Hope your car is TCU adapting to your engine braking and nothing more... Hope so.

 

Glad you got it sorted out. Guessing the tuner changed your throttle maps, as a much easier way to restrict airflow to your engine for new motor breakin. Clever, but yes, advisable to not mess with throttle open angle tables, and instead advise the driver to go easy on the gas pedal, switch manually to wastegate spring pressure boost, etc.

Post removed. Edited March 20, 2013 by _karu_
Thanks to ClimberD@HexMods for clarification. The question is not revelant to this thread.

Posted this on different thread, but, I thought I would get faster answer here.

 

In your opinion, what would be a good brand to go to replace my stock Crank Pulley?

 

My car is 2005 2.5i (non-Turbo) 5EAT and the only reason for me to change the stock pulley is to take precautionary step to prevent the eventual delamination of the stock pulley which may causes the destruction of AC compressor due to the belt falling off.

 

I would like to replace the crank pulley with whatever closest to the stock one (sans the design flaw of the stock pulley) in order to prevent CEL due to misfire or other related issues caused by low weight pulley.

 

Any suggestion? I've read names like Cobb, Perrin, Grimmspeed, etc. I'm just not sure which one to get.

 

I appreciate your enthusiasm in trying to get this figured out, and asking for help. However, please allow me to make some small but important notes, not so much relevant to you but to your question per this thread.

 

This does not belong in this thread for a number of reasons:

1) You don't have a 5EAT. You have a 4EAT.

2) The crank pulley has almost nothing to do with the 5EAT.

3) This thread is in the transmission forum.

4) The crowd of people watching this thread might not be as well versed in crank pulleys as people watching a crank pulley thread.

5) The information on Subaru crank pulleys is already out there and can be found easily via Google, and some dedicated time put towards sifting through the 95% uneducated blabber posts to get to the 5% intelligent/useful posts. Such information may be hosted on other sites than legacygt.com.

 

Thank you though for your question, and please let me know if I can help in a different way.

Wow Climber! If more people responded to inappropriate posts in that way, there would be a lot fewer hard feelings and a lot fewer pissing matches between noobs and Internet tough guys.

 

Maybe it should be made into a template.

I like to think that being a massive dick to someone does that person and you zero benefit. Dicks just attracts more dicks.

 

Don't confuse being nice with being informative. In this example, I told him why this is not the right place, and how better to go about searching for the information he wants. If I would have been a dick, I don't see how that would have added anything to the equation. Correct me if I am missing something.

I saw nothing dickish about David's reply. He was actually being quite informative, telling the person who posted that reply that he was asking in the wrong forum and where to find his answers that he seeks.

 

I used to admin several forums, and one of my pet peeves was people (usually newer members) posting random questions in the wrong forum. This is David's thread and it focuses on the 5EAT. Crank pulley issues don't belong here.

Hi all,

Previously I may have weakly asked how ATF flows in the 5EAT, valve body and cooler. I don’t recall being satisfied with an answer, if there was one.

After the VB mod or rather with the VB mod I put in a 9x6x.75 tranny cooler with 5/16 inlets and ATF line (including stock cooler) and two temp sensors for the return (cooled) and exit (hot) lines.

Of course the VB mod is awesome! But ive never been keen on the Temp sensors or cooler or possibly the system with the information and sensations im getting.

The ATF can get really HOT. Under normal driving its okay. Freeway it stays nice at 190* UNLESS I accelerate hard up a long hill. So 60 mph in 5th (or 4th or 3rd) for 1 or 2 minutes. Within a minute or two the temp will spike quickly up to 230*. If I return to flat and cruising speed the temp will take 4 mins to return to 190*.

If it’s a warm day and im in stop and go traffic at traffic signals the temp will slowly creep up to 220* and stay there. On a few hot days here in Seattle its gone to 250*

On the track my temp will climb to 290*and stay. I have had to cut session’s short for fear of frying things. Even on cool and rainy days it will stay around 260*. I can tell at temps that high I have less power in 4th on the straights. As the temp gets this hot the car is slower in the straights. At the beginning of the day or session ill hit 125mph but once hot ill hit 115mph. Out of corners in 2nd and 3rd it feels like power is still there but so much is happening to really feel it clearly.

So, ive bought a larger cooler, Hayden 11x11x.75 (which will barely fit in front of radiator and mounts) with 3/8” inlets and 3/8 line which is what stock is. I also got 3/8 barbs for the Temp sensor “T”s. AND a 1/2” fluid thermostat manifold with 3/8” barbs. (it’s a bit huge, a little bigger than my fist). Im having trouble finding a place near the hard lines to mount it.

Now my fear is ive gone and added to much extra line or volume that the VB or 5EAT will be hindered. Is this the case?

Am I correct that ATF is not compressible and is not exposed to atmosphere so how severely would it be affected by the increased length and volume?

Will line pressure or whatever pushes and holds the clutch packs together be lessened and allow slipping?

I guess I should ask how and where ATF line pressure is made and what does it do?

I get spinning fluid in the torque converter to spin the tranny but does that require pressurized ATF? Does the Torque converter pressurize the ATF or is there a dedicated pump for that?

If there is a pump does it provide pressure to push the clutch packs ONLY or to also move the fluid through the system (i.e. to the cooler and back)?

Some time ago I think I got an answer on the route of fluid through the system. Is it VB, clutches, TQ then cooler? With majority of heat coming from the converter? If most the heat comes from the converter then the VB mod should not have affected temps. Prior to the VB mod I only drove with one temp sensor for 60 miles on the freeway in March. I vaguely remember it spiking slightly above 190* on hard hill acceleration.

I need more people to put in temp sensors or read the internal ones with the laptop to get a conclusive baseline.

Most critical question is will the increased volume of lines, cooler and thermostat harm anything and/or deplete power?

Thanks for the help

Triple

 

The increased fluid volume is negligible in relation to the overall fluid volume, and the fluid is indeed incompressible, so that's all a non-issue. Temps do seem to have been a concern, but the 190* spikes you're observing now keep things within tolerable limits. Keep calm and party on.

I have an 05 wagon 5eat stage 2.5, today at wot it didn't shift from first to second just bogged down and did nothing for a few seconds. A friend told me i "limped" the transmission and its a safty so i dont blow it up. he is a well known powerstroke ford guy so im skeptical on his views. Then after it bogged down let me keep on driving after i lifted off the throttle. Any idea why? To much power for the tranny? I've only owned manuals my hole life and it felt It Like it was about to stall. I was in sport mode it has done this several other times but today it kinda smelled so I'm beginning to worry and de tuned it to stage 2 91 oct. would love some of your guys input.

^^ Had you recently changed a mod on the car, or flashed a new tune to the car? Every time a change has been made with parts on the car, or a change to a tune I've needed a couple of hundred miles for the 5EAT to learn how to shift.

 

Next question: how old is your tranny fluid?

Anyone know the best way to launch??? Sport mode or manual??? I've brought my car to the track and ran a 15.3 in sport mode in fear that the lag in manual will slow things down... I'm going stage two next month and wanted to figure this out while I'm waiting for tuning... There isn't many roads to try this on near my house and I'm sure it's minor time difference so without subjecting my car to beatings at the track I figured some one here can let me know what works best for them...

Anyone know the best way to launch??? Sport mode or manual??? I've brought my car to the track and ran a 15.3 in sport mode in fear that the lag in manual will slow things down... I'm going stage two next month and wanted to figure this out while I'm waiting for tuning... There isn't many roads to try this on near my house and I'm sure it's minor time difference so without subjecting my car to beatings at the track I figured some one here can let me know what works best for them...

 

Manual Mode 1st Gear, gas and brake pedals to the floor (hold both for no longer than a couple seconds, preferably as short as possible to get the rpm you want). Then, release brake pedal.

There are other tricks to have the TMIC cool at the time of the launch (which helps a lot with the launch).

 

Launching is the easiest way to break driveline bits, so do so at your own risk.

So not including the brake launch... Manual is faster than sport mode cause I used sport at the track... My times will be better? Ive read that the redline is higher in manual. Ive read that ppl who are stock can go the quarter in 3rd without touching 4th at all. And do the lag times differ from rpm range? I know these questions are noobie but don't hurt my car to find o

Oops...

As much as I can before my car talking a unnecessary beating...

So not including the brake launch... Manual is faster than sport mode cause I used sport at the track...

 

That comes down to the driver. Try both. Manual 1 puts the transmission into a max lockup mode. It's nice, but not really necessary. Again, try both, see what you like better, or what is faster. If you modify enough to move the power band, then your results between the two modes will vary.

 

Ive read that the redline is higher in manual.

 

If you are not well tuned up to and including fuel cut, then messing with high rpm shifting is not the best idea.

 

Ive read that ppl who are stock can go the quarter in 3rd without touching 4th at all.

 

Yes.

 

And do the lag times differ from rpm range? I know these questions are noobie but don't hurt my car to find o

 

Shift button lag or shift duration time? The first won't change, and the second will be a bit faster in sport mode / manual mode over drive mode.

 

Oops...

As much as I can before my car talking a unnecessary beating...

 

I don't know what you mean. If you're doing this kind of thing, then hurting the car is probably not personally a big concern. But that is a debate for a different thread, not here

I have an 05 wagon 5eat stage 2.5, today at wot it didn't shift from first to second just bogged down and did nothing for a few seconds. A friend told me i "limped" the transmission and its a safty so i dont blow it up. he is a well known powerstroke ford guy so im skeptical on his views. Then after it bogged down let me keep on driving after i lifted off the throttle. Any idea why? To much power for the tranny? I've only owned manuals my hole life and it felt It Like it was about to stall. I was in sport mode it has done this several other times but today it kinda smelled so I'm beginning to worry and de tuned it to stage 2 91 oct. would love some of your guys input.

 

Sounds like you hit rpm fuel cut. This happens sometimes when you modify. Solution is to have a proper tune, made specifically for your car, not an off-the-shelf.