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AVO FMIC Install Pictorial


NSFW

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So, 3 guys

+ 1 car

+ 1 FMIC

+ 10 hours

 

= 93 pictures, and...

Great Success!

 

The car runs fine, and the fog lights are still in place. Since I'm still running the stock turbo and tune, I can't really comment on the performance aspects. I'm pretty sure it will serve me well when the rest of the upgrades are in place, though.

 

It took a long time, and I have a lot of pictures, so I don't plan to post everything in one sitting...

Post1A.jpg.6e09e7c0d98a4b77b112de20cff26231.jpg

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You'll want to pull the bumper and the bumper beam, and also the plastic tray you see below the radiator here. I tried cutting slots in that tray to allow the core's mounting tabs to reach their mounting points, but that didn't seem possible. Looking at these pictures again, I think it might be possible to keep that tray if you cut off the top inch below the radiator.

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2023.jpg

 

In fact, the tray wasn't the only thing getting in the way. The bottom of the core hit the bracket in the center of the radiator at the points where you see the two red dots. Easy19 and the man with the lift (hereafter, TMWTL Citka) taped up the back of the core, painted the tape red, and hung it from the top mounting point, transferring the red dots you see below. Also, to the right, note that the AC sensor has been mounted on the back of its tab, and still had to be bent back, causing some paint flaking.

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2030.jpg

 

Same thing, different angle:

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2029.jpg

 

Unfortunately for Easy10, TMWTL Citka located an angle grinder before the Sawzall could be found:

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2038.jpg

 

Result:

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2040.jpg

 

I think there may have been more grinding after that, but I'm not sure. The bare metal was sanded and given a liberal coat of touch-up paint, as was the aforementioned AC temperature sensor mounting tab.

 

Tight fit:

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2052.jpg

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Next problem:

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2042.jpg

 

Unfortunately for Easy19, TMWTL Citka felt that this cutting wheel would be more appropriate than the Sawzall:

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2045.jpg

 

Solved:

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2055.jpg

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is that the AEM CAI you have installed with the FMIC?

 

Yes. The heat shield had to be trimmed to fit the turbo-to-IC pipe, but that's about all. I just realized that I didn't get any pictures of the trimmed shield, but I'll take one later. If you search for this site for AEM and AVO FMIC you'll find a picture of someone else's install.

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I love the sawzall as much as the next person.....but I'm pretty much off using them on plumbing connected to important parts.

 

I cut a 3" PVC sewage pipe as I was re-routing the pipe in a new direction. The leverage action of the PVC pipe, connected to a toilet 5' feet away, caused the whole house to shake/vibrate. My toilet bowl broke it's wax seal (allowing it to "tinkle" down through the open ceiling), candles fell off walls in the house, and God only knows what other damage/aging I did.

 

Grinding wheel FTW so far :)

 

Joe

 

P.s. Am I the only one who thinks the engine bay looks SO much better with the intercooler relocated to the front and no plastic engine cover? I'm no detailed-engine freak, but I so want my engine to look like that with a nice new battery, black hoses, and a shined up engine bay.

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Looks good so far. It is nice when you have someone there to help out. :)

 

Absolutely. I'm super glad I didn't end up doing this by myself. There are steps that really demand a person on each side of the car, and there were even times where it was useful to have a person on each side holding something (bumper, beam, core, etc) and a third person checking the fit.

 

Also, as a relative n00b to car work, it helped (enormously) to be working with two experienced people. There were plenty of times where if this was a solo project I would have just stopped and cursed, but their attitude was always, "we can fix that with..." and that kept us moving forward the whole time.

 

the search results probably brought up my install.

 

NSFW, did you have a problem putting the bumper beam back in? my mounting hardware was screwed up a bit, so i just didnt put the bumper beam back in.

 

That was one of the more aggravating tasks, but we did get it mounted. Our first problem was not reading the instructions. Our second problem was not really understanding the instructions even after we read them. And then, we did not quite believe the instructions even after we figured out what they meant.

 

We did get it back on though, and there will be pictures. :)

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Here's that the pic again, since I moved it a minute ago:

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2040.jpg

 

I'm not going to lose sleep over it. I wouldn't want to do that sort of grinding in the middle of that pillar, but right down there near the welds doesn't bother me.

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http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2056.jpg

 

Above is the frame rail on the driver's side. The FMIC piping needs to make a pretty tight U-turn here, with the fog light pressing up against the other side of it.

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This may not be strictly necessary, but since other folks here complained of difficulty getting enough space for the fog lights:

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2060.jpg

 

(and because Citka wouldn't let Easy19 use the Sawzall...)

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There's a thick weld back there, which seemed kind of important, so only a few millimeters were removed:

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2064.jpg

 

Both sides got that treatment, actually. It's a tight fit.

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2079.jpg

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2080.jpg

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Behind the area shown above, just forward of the wiper fluid reservoir... I should have taken a "before" picture, but you can probably guess what this tab looked like before I snipped it off. It was poking into the FMIC piping and threatening to eventually wear through it:

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2065.jpg

 

It was deburred and given some touch-up paint.

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The bypass valve blows into a tube that runs behind the intake manifold. That tube needs to be cut, and a 90-degree elbow (supplied with the FMIC kit) needs to be attached. Far as we could tell, removing the pipe would require removing the intake manifold. Far as we could tell, that was going to be a huge pain in the ass.

 

Cutting the pipe with would put dust into it... while plastic dust isn't terribly likely to harm the engine, it didn't sit well with any of us. Besides, it's too cramped back there to wield the Sawzall.

 

Behold the greatest stroke of genius in the history of FMICification:

 

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/FMIC%20Install%20Day/FMIC2072.jpg

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