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Project Legacy Gt outback begins...


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Thanks for the info brandon, however the trailing arm mounting points are pretty different between the 5th gen legacy and the older subaru models.

 

The trailing arms slot into a hard mount directly onto the rear subframe. Unlike the toe link setup.

 

I looked into the BRZ/FRS trailing arms and while they look similar, i believe the are significantly shorter. I might be wrong though...need to do so more research.

 

As for the caster, I think I am only going to do the AVO bushings. Just to try to bring it back as close to spec as possible.

 

I am definitely planning to get the primative racing skidplates in the future. But need to replenish the "toy funds" first.

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Thanks for the info everyone.

 

The outback and legacy subframes are the same, it's the spacers that go between the frame and the subframe that is the difference.

 

Spacing down the legacy subframe will change the geometry between the rear diff and driveshaft. Not sure if it is enough to matter.

 

This is why I think it's wiser to get longer trailing arms vs. Spacing down the subframe.

 

Also, installing new trailing arms is a 15min job. Dropping the subframe....probably a days work.

 

 

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Last night, I noticed that the car was slightly leaning towards the driver side.

 

I did some quick measurements and the driver side (both front and rear) are sitting ~0.5 inches lower than the passenger side.

 

I am wondering what is causing this. Is this considered within normal specs?

 

Any ideas?

 

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No, not really. Thats weird. I assume you are measuring ground to fender.

 

Was the car on a side slope? It would lean one way if so. Make sure the ground is level (side to side) and give it a few bounced front and rear and measure again.

 

I assume you have ruled out tire pressures. Make sure they are within 0.5 psi side to side.

 

Also I assume your 4 new tires are all the same size, obviously supposed to be, possibly not if a shop was half-retarded.

 

The springs you used.. how new were they when you got them (I see they were used but I don't see a mention of how used). If they were very new and not settled yet, I would think it would be normal for the drivers side to settle faster than the passenger side due to more weight (battery + driver) and also because of on/exit ramp cornering.

 

When I got new springs the same thing happened to me for a while, and eventually it evened out.

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I am going to look underneath the car this weekend.

 

I am wondering if there is some preload on the rear sway bar that is causing one side to sit higher than the other. I did go for a test drive after I installed the suspension with the driver side rear endlinks totally loose (forgot to tighten).

 

I am going to disconnect the rear sway bar completely to see if that is causing the problem.

 

Aside from this issue, the car drives and rides great.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Try this for correcting the trailing arm geometry. They make a 1", 1.5" and 2" kit. I wouldn't worry about the drive shaft, lots of the 09+ Forester guys have been removing the subframe spacer with no ill effect on the drive shaft geometry. You are just doing the opposite.

 

http://www.subtle-solutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_23_36_88&products_id=459

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  • 3 weeks later...

Reviving this thread from the dead, I just received the custom trailing arms which i ordered from atomic fabrications. I had them powder coated in cusco blue and they look amazing. I needed the custom trailing arms because the only other aftermarket adjustable trailing arms available for the 5th gen legacy (basically cusco and Megan shown in the pics) all lack the curve of the stock arm. The straight arms will work fine on a stock height/lowered legacy, however, do not clear the rear toe arm when lifted.

 

The atomic fabrications arms are about a half inch longer than stock and can adjust out to 2 inches longer than stock. The arms come pre installed with whiteline bushings. Overall fit and finish are amazing. Very satisfied with the purchase.

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/b638cdc78dec031256e9a880139e7f6c.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/7be7bcc970f9895d00d2672fad83c40f.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/bfc540af0f250043d0c69498840c839d.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/10bb1077d536550182013306bbb91d3f.jpg

 

I also purchased a set of hardened solid rubber bushings for the front control arms. Both of the stock L and R bushings are starting to tear.

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/5b725fdc35d46928cedcd1e1c2951a07.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/a098ecd531f097c556ac080afaf4bdf5.jpg

 

Also I had to swap out both front and rear endlinks. The stock legacy endlinks are about half inch shorter than the outback endlinks. Got Moog replacement endlinks and they are definitely a quality oem part.

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/023751d5008968f254e8f7a888e85477.jpg

 

I will be installing everything in the next few weeks so stay tuned.

 

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NSFW Suspension porn

Reviving this thread from the dead, I just received the custom trailing arms which i ordered from atomic fabrications.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/08/7be7bcc970f9895d00d2672fad83c40f.jpg

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Just installed the moog front endlinks. Very High quality part. Everything is oversized compared the the stock endlinks. Also come with zerk fittings on each ball joint.

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/12/3c0e4c133ded10fb060eadef25847f33.jpg

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/12/1790fca0e062ddd4366f1caea89f264e.jpg

 

 

 

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So some pictures of the install.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/10/b0c9951e1865cf8a4c58ec20381d0d9c.jpg

 

Hey if you still have the stock ones could you measure the distance from center of the bushing whole to center of ball joint bolt? Doesnt have to be too precise.

 

Trying to get these for Tribeca and no one knows if adjustable ones fit.

 

The SUS looks great by the way

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Hey if you still have the stock ones could you measure the distance from center of the bushing whole to center of ball joint bolt? Doesnt have to be too precise.

 

Trying to get these for Tribeca and no one knows if adjustable ones fit.

 

The SUS looks great by the way

Will do, give me a few days.

 

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Hey if you still have the stock ones could you measure the distance from center of the bushing whole to center of ball joint bolt? Doesnt have to be too precise.

 

Trying to get these for Tribeca and no one knows if adjustable ones fit.

 

The SUS looks great by the way

I got the measurements, approximately 10 inches. Center eyelid to eyelid.

 

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Look what else showed up in the mail today....

 

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/20/55e6ba228e4e18bc61b2b4930fdaf496.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/20/4c921f43e23dc273c74894429e893030.jpg

 

 

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Even better, I need a winter set under 400 and really didn't want to look into getting 17ss.

 

*edit* mind putting up a link? Maybe I'll run to discount tire tomorrow to see if they can match the offer in store

Edited by s2baru
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