installing hella super tones in 98 legacy

i made my own bracket out of flat steel you can get at any hardware store. Cut to length, drill holes and paint it. I don't know what this said harness is, but i didn't use one of them either. All you need is some wire, spade connectors, ring terminal connectors and butt connectors and the crimping tool. You don't need to use the relay that comes with the horns either because the Suby's already use a relay for horn so you just use the existing horn wires.

A friend and i made 3 brackets for WAY cheaper than it costs for one bracket from subimods.com. Just my opinion.

I'm not the most hands on car guy out there so I bought the hella super tones / harness / bracket from subimods and the install was clean and simple. I personally felt the convenience was worth the price. Just my 2 cents. Good luck with the install.

There's a lot of difference between the 2nd Gen install and the 4th Gen install. Hence the OP's 2nd Gen question. I think his concern is that Subimods doesn't list the complete harness, brace and horns setup that they offer for the newer models.

Sorry to be off topic, but what is the point of the "relay kit"

I just spliced into my stock horns so I am running stocks and hellas (they might actually be SickSpeed) with no issues what-so-ever. Never understood the purpose of the relay/kit

Sorry to be off topic, but what is the point of the "relay kit"

I just spliced into my stock horns so I am running stocks and hellas (they might actually be SickSpeed) with no issues what-so-ever. Never understood the purpose of the relay/kit

You don't need a relay when using our horns, because there is already a relay built into the circuit. The purpose of the relay is to allow the full current to travel directly to the horns without it needing to pass through the switch (in this case, the horn button in the steering wheel) first.

Simply putting the switch in line with the main power to the horns means the switch has to be very heavy duty to be able to manage the current, and is less efficient since the resistance of both the switch and the extra wire length will reduce the volume of the horns. (Even regular disc horns in a car draw a surprising amount of power.)

Our cars already have the relay (you should be able to hear it click when you honk the horn button with the stock horns disconnected) so you simply need to swap the old ones with the new ones.

There's a lot of difference between the 2nd Gen install and the 4th Gen install. Hence the OP's 2nd Gen question. I think his concern is that Subimods doesn't list the complete harness, brace and horns setup that they offer for the newer models.

Yes you are right. Thats what I am concerned about. When I look on installations online its always for 2000 and up. I'm wondering if the wiring is different and so forth. Im a female btw

I'd like to install some Hellas at some point but I want a toggle switch so I can choose between the stock horns and the Hellas. Silly I know, but I would like to be able to have gentle horns and **** you horns. Probably a pita to wire up.

Find a 1st gen steering wheel with the two horn buttons and wire one for the stockers and the other for the hellas. Then you could really f*ck with people and push them both at once...or play music with them haha

I'd like to install some Hellas at some point but I want a toggle switch so I can choose between the stock horns and the Hellas. Silly I know, but I would like to be able to have gentle horns and **** you horns. Probably a pita to wire up.

Not as much of a PITA as you would think. I have the same thing set up for my stock horns and air horns. Basically I added two relays in the engine bay. One for each set of horns. I took the stock power wire to one of the disk horns, which obviously is activated when you press the steering wheel, and ran it to two toggle switches in the car - just split it and connect it to the 12V connection on each toggle. Then run separate wires from the load of each toggle to each relay. That way, whenever you honk the horn, whichever toggle is on (either one or both) will honk whichever horn it is connected to. You can even turn them both off, lol.

I was looking at my steering wheel and it is the old two button style. Maybe it is possible to have each button activate one horn. That would be hilarious. Thanks stang for the wiring explanation.

edit: Woo hoo, 3,000 posts!

well thanks everybody for the help. they should be here monday. cant wait!

Well I am glad I ran across this thread! I have been wanting HellaHorns but kept seeing the "relay kit needed" on them. Looks like Ill be getting some soon

Good luck and if you don't mind, write-up a walk-through so other 2nd Gen members can benefit from your install.

Whats up guys!

This was an easy project, 3/10

Materials

Splicer

Electrical Tape

Heat Shrink

10mm/ Phillips Screw Driver

So as you can tell in the picture I did not use the relay or the battery. I was told by people that the relay isnt needed, but I can find out later if her car horns dont work. This is a simple modification to the car.

What I did as you can tell from the diagram was that I ran it with the stock horns. I cut the connections on the stock horns. However it took me some time to figure out if it was a ground or a 12v that was allowing the horn to "honk" I then found out it was a constant 12v and the pressing of the horn connects a ground to let current flow. After finding out the 12v it was to find out on the Hellasupertones which was the ground and which was the positive. Since the instructions WERE SO HELPFUL!! Not really.

If holding the Hellatones with the bracket on top the top is negative and the bottom is positive.

After attaching the male and female ends, I spliced the grounds on both the hellatones and connected them to one. After connecting them to one I grounded it on the chassis. Please make sure you heat shrink or solder and cover up any exposed wires.

So ground check. All we need now is a 12v.

I repeated the step of splicing both the red wires together. After doing so i combined it with the driver side stock horn.

After checking connections and wrapping wires. I was all done.

I made a diagram for you guys to follow.

I didnt think it would be necessary to use the relays cause its 12v both ways. But, if anything I can add it in easily.

Good luck - Her Friend.

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/406123_10151619562244307_624948632_n.jpg

Black is stock

Pink is Hellatones

I made a nice one and it got deleted so I was lazy about this one.

Not as much of a PITA as you would think. I have the same thing set up for my stock horns and air horns. Basically I added two relays in the engine bay. One for each set of horns. I took the stock power wire to one of the disk horns, which obviously is activated when you press the steering wheel, and ran it to two toggle switches in the car - just split it and connect it to the 12V connection on each toggle. Then run separate wires from the load of each toggle to each relay. That way, whenever you honk the horn, whichever toggle is on (either one or both) will honk whichever horn it is connected to. You can even turn them both off, lol.

That is a hella-va lotta extra work that in my opinion is not required. I too have a Hornblasters kit and I left the stock horn circuit alone. I used 1 relay to activate the air horns with the stock horns. The air horns relay power feed is shut off with a small hidden switch, de-activating them. I see no need to have a shut off for the stock horns or any problem with both sets blasting at the same time. You can't hear the stock horns anyway when the others are sounding.

It's not really that much work at all. It sounds more complicated than it is. I prefer to call it "doing things properly." Some people want "cleanliness" in the sound of their horns, rather than just a cacophony of noises. There is a reason that horns are tuned to specific notes. It might be easier to just tap into the existing wires, but running both sets of horns is typically ugly sounding, and depending on the horns you have, reduces the sound output because, if you look it up, you will learn that electric disk horns pull a LOT of amperage.

Also, in the case of air horns, there is a delay between when you activate them, and when the air reaches the trumpets. There is no such delay in electric horns. This means that if you leave both sets connected, you clearly hear the stock horn before the air horns kick in. I don't want that. I want the stock horn for normal situations, or the nicely tuned sound of my four, harmonic air horns to scare the %$ out of people when necessary.