Blown Head Gasket?

Okay, so I have light bubbles in the coolant overflow. Today it would randomly start running hot, and then cool off and be fine for a while. Check the overflow while it was running hot, and it was overflowing, and was cool to the touch. Can this be anything but a head gasket?

Also, how much should I expect it to cost to replace them myself? It's a1990 2.2. And how long does it take? Thanks

Could be a head gasket. How much it costs will depend on whatever else you do while the engine is out. How long it takes varies from person to person, especially if you have done it before.

 

Could be a bad water pump or thermostat, a block in the coolant passages or heater core. Check for hydrocarbons in the coolant, there is a test for this. You can also have your mechanic do a compression test.

Yeah, well, I don't have a mechanic. So far I have been able to do everything myself. But never had to do a head gasket. I was told the 2.2 can easily be done without pulling the motor, is that true?

I have heard that as well, but have never replaced HGs without pulling the motor. I think people have some issues getting the lower head bolts out, iirc. But people have done it.

 

This guy did it on his Forester: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f66/how-replace-ej25-head-gaskets-without-removing-engine-57335/

 

It's a 2.5 and I don't know how the engine bay spaces compare between the forester and yours.

head gaskets are easily done with the motor still in the car... all you gotta do is unbolt the motor mounts and jack the motor up.... subaru had a TSB about this... i did the head gaskets on mine really easily... these motors are so easy to work on.....

Its easy to take them out too. I did mine in a day heads off cleaned and all seals and gaskets swapped. I have taken the motors out of these in 15 mins before. I got really pissed...

Okay, cool. So do I need to have the heads machined, or not. Considering I still drive it everyday, with minor issues. I would think they are okay. Also, if I am gonna leave the motor in, what else should I do while replacing head gaskets?

Getting the heads machined is about $75 or less, and is a good idea. At the very least, get them checked so you know that they are within tolerances. You don't want to do this twice.

 

Since the heads have to come off so does the timing belt. Might as well replace all of the pulleys, tensioner, belt, cam seals, crank seal, cam cap o-rings, re-seal your oil pump, water pump, and thermostat. You'll be good to go for another 100k at least.

 

It's also a good time to change your spark plugs, wires, air filter, fuel filter, change your oil, and clean your throttle body.

Okay, thanks. So it looks like we are gonna pull the motor so we can look at replacing the clutch, and because I just kinda want to. Anything I should know? Also, is there a certain brand of head gaskets I should use? Any tips or pointers? I am having a hard time finding info on pulling a motor in the forums, and some advice from someone who has done it would help a ton.

I would use Subaru head gaskets. Also Felpro are good from what I hear. The Subaru FSM describes in detail how to pull the engine if you can download it. If you don't have an impact gun, you can get a pretty good one for about $70. Mine's a Kawasaki and has been very handy. If you have an air compressor then you are even better off. You don't need one, but they will save you some strain.

 

Start spraying PB blaster on your four transmission bolts, and where the bell housing meets the engine a day in advance if possible. Also spray your axle nuts, the big ones. It is a lot easier to get at the lower transmission bolts if you undo your axles from the transmission spindles. It may not be necessary, but does make it easier. To get them off the spindles remove the spring punch with a 3/16" punch iirc, then remove the calipers, and undo the bolts that hold the strut to the wheel assembly. Mark where the camber bolts sit with white out so you can get them to where they were before without needing an alignment. Since my engine was a turbo I had to remove the axle on the driver's side. I could get at the passenger side from above after I removed the turbo. Maybe on your n/a 22e you can get at both lower transmission bolts from above. I couldn't because there were too many hoses in the way.

 

First remove the radiator (drain it first, of course.) Then start to disconnect all the wiring harnesses, air intake, vacuum lines, a/c lines, etc. If you want you can label them by writing with a marker on masking tape. If it is your first time it will help you reconnect everything later.

 

Aw, screw it. Hang on for a minute while I upload the engine removal procedure from the FSM. Then I'll edit this post.

Here is the next batch of pics. This should help a bit. If you have any more questions let us know.

 

If the engine is stubborn and won't separate from the transmission very easily, you can get a thin bladed screwdriver or putty knife and whack it in there to get things apart. I'm sure some people will tell you that is a big no no, but it works great. I did it yesterday, in fact. I scratched the mating surfaces a tiny bit, but it doesn't hurt anything mechanical.

So just a minor update here. Still getting bubbles in the coolant, and haven't looked into it any more. But I was poking around this evening and noticed that the lower radiator hose was collapsed. The motor was off an the coolant was cold cause it had been sitting all day. I actually filled the radiator earlier today with the car running till it started overflowing and then put the cap on. So anyway, I noticed it collapsed, and when I pulled the radiator cap off, it sucked a bunch of air, and the hose filled back out. Why is it not sucking the coolant from the overflow? I know the overflow tube is not blocked, as it will push coolant into the tank. Could it be the cap? Any thoughts?

The cap is probably good. Maybe when the system cools down the liquid shrinks and collapses the hose. It still sounds like a HG problem.

So I just started pulling the motor yesterday, and everything was going really good untill it came time to pull the a/c unit. I talked with a guy who said hes done it a couple times, and you can just pull the a/c aside without draining it. Well, we spent a couple hours just trying to get the thing off. It's mounted to a bracket, which it can't come out of without removing the bracket, but i can't get the bracket off without pulling the intake manifold to get to one of the bolts. I am sure I am missing something, but has anyone else ran into this problem?

I set my power steering pump to the side, but not the AC so I didn't run into the same problem that you have. I did disconnect the big hoses going to the AC though. I didn't know any better and I also relieved a tiny bit of pressure by pressing in the valve on the low point. My AC doesn't work at the moment and I need to get it recharged. But I don't know if the AC worked before I pulled the motor either.

 

You must be missing something. Here's some pics so we can figure out what is going on. The AC comes right off without undoing the bracket that you are talking about. There are two bolts on the bottom right of the compressor, two on the top, and the long bolt that holds it to the engine lifting bracket and alternator. I also undid the hoses that bolt into the side. The hose going to the firewall I disconnected from the AC, and I disconnected the hose that goes to the radiator.

So I had a friend come look my a/c problem, and withing minutes he had it out. What I viewed as stuck in the bracket, he viewed as simply needing more leverage, and grabbed a big ol' screwdriver and pried it out. Thanks for the photos though. We'll see how the rest of this goes now.

Okay, so I finally got a cherry picker and pulled the engine. What's the best resource for where to go from here? I am hoping to find torque specs and such. Also, do the valve covers have to come off to pull the heads? It doesn't look like it. Anything to be careful to watch for? Oh, and the main questions is should I get the head gaskets from the dealer, or is there a better source. I don't want junk. Same goes with manifold gaskets and the like? What else should I do while it's out?

The Hanes manuals have all the torque specs. Someone

may have uploaded one here, but I really suggest buying

one. They're pretty useful.

 

If you've already got the engine out do yourself a favor and

replace the valve cover gaskets

 

I've heard aftermarket head gaskets dont do so well. I

would think someone on here would have a good source

on where to get some Subaru ones cheaper though. I

would suggest getting new headbolts too, man. And while

the engine is out I would do the front main seal, rear main

seal, front cam seals, rear cam seal, water pump(?), timing

belt, replace any pulleys that need it and check the hydraulic

tensioner. Clean out your intake manifold, throttle body and idle

air controller and get new gaskets for each of those. For the

intake and throttle body you can get those from Autozone or

whatever, but the IAC you'll need from Subaru since no one else

seems to have it. Exhaust gaskets I've gotten from Subaru and

Autozone on different occasions and didn't really notice much of

a difference.

Okay, so a few more questions. I know most people say replace the timingn belt idlers and stuff, but they feel real tight, and the bearings are very smooth. Should I sill do it anyway? And the water pump feels really tight too. Also, I got the cam sprocket off(that was real fun without the tool). Do I really need to take the cams out? I plan on having the heads machined, but would like to leave them in If I can. Thanks

I'd replace them just to be safe. It's your call but if any of them fail down the road you'll have to do your timing again. The engine is out so they are a snap to replace and fairly inexpensive. Plus the idlers and pulleys and water pump all come with timing kits. I bought a timing kit off eBay for $115 shipped and it had everything except the thermostat and hydraulic tensioner.

 

You dont need to remove your camshafts for any reason. Did you mean your cam sprockets? If so then you don't have to remove them either. However now is the time to replace your cam cap o rings (aka cam shaft support o rings. About $6-8 each). They will leak so replace them. It is possible to replace the passenger side without removing the cam sprocket but you will have to remove it to replace the driver's side.

 

I would also recommend checking your hydraulic lash adjusters and bleeding them. They keep your valve clearances correct and are easy to bleed. If your engine was ticking a lot then that is what will cause it. When they get old they can collapse.

 

Edit: oops. Didn't catch that you were machining your heads. Even so you can leave your cams in place. But wait to bleed your HLAs until after the heads are machined. Your heads may. Of even need to be machined if they are still within tolerances but still a good idea.

If your idler bearings spin freely and keep spining then the tolerance are greater. They should be tight, if you don't do them now then you'll have to do them when your water pump or oil pump fails. Although they could last another 60,000 miles. Its a budget decision, I replaced everything on my ej20g and now the motor runs quiet and smooth. Never see oil under it either, it feels good knowing everything is new and your investment is protected.

Thanks guys. I guess ill just get new idler bearing. I had already been looking at an oem grade kit on ebay, which was cheaper than just buying the timing belt at the dealership. Regarding the heads: is it needed to have them machined? I was a really small head leak. Also, should I do anything else to the heads. I know its easy to drop a lot of money into those, which I don't have. Thanks again

If your heads didn't overheat too bad they are most likely fine and you could get by without machining them but check them out for warpage. A machine shop will check them for you. They don't cost too much to get decked though, $70 or so. You don't need to do anything else to them but bleeding the HLAs is a good idea.

I dont bother getting new bearings or pulleys

unless they're squealing. They're not super

expensive, but I'm super cheap. It takes me

15-20 minutes to get the radiator fans out,

timing cover off and belt off and be onto the

pulley that I need changed. So for an hour/

hour and a half worth of work you can reinstall

a new idler and throw it all back together if you

need to. It is nice to have new stuff though.

Did that in my RS. I do have one going out in

my red Legacy right now that's freakin annoying.

Like I have said before Legacy Wagon, you are the cheapest guy on this whole site! Respect!