DAM question

Good evening,

 

So I was running a Stage 1 91 map tune from Cobb then decided to switch back to the stock tune. After doing so my DAM is sitting at .6 not the 1 that is heavily recommended. When I was at stage 1 my DAM would sit at 1. Should I switch back my Stage 1 tune or investigate into why my DAM dropped to .6?

 

Thanks,

Subaconfused.

First of all, why are you switching maps willy-nilly? Is there a particular reason for going back to the stock tune, or are you just trying to blow your shit up?

Wasn't just changing was going back to stock for economy reasons. And was running it for about a few weeks. Haven't been religious about checking my AP after the switch but today on my way home I noticed the change in the DAM.

When you re-flash a map the IAM (DAM) will be reset to something like 0.5-0.75 depending on the tuner/tune. It should go back to 1 after a short time provided there aren't any vehicle issues.

 

Drive around for a bit and see if it goes back to 1.

When you re-flash a map the IAM (DAM) will be reset to something like 0.5-0.75 depending on the tuner/tune. It should go back to 1 after a short time provided there aren't any vehicle issues.

 

Drive around for a bit and see if it goes back to 1.

 

This. It doesn't instantly go to 1. (or 16, if you're a 2.0l WRX!)

 

Has the DAM risen to 1 yet, OP?

OP: Is the Stage 1 91 oct map you mentioned, the OTS one supplied by Cobb, or a protuner's map? The 05 LGT Cobb Stage 1 91 oct OTS map has DAM Reset (Default) set to 0.75, so if you're running the OTS map it would seem that your DAM has indeed dropped.

No its still staying at .9 right now. Ever time I go for a drive I am hoping that it will go up but it has not. The knock I was noticing on the stock map from cobb is now gone which I guess is a good thing. Sorry work has been bad. Yes it is the OTS from cobb the 91 map. It started at .7 then went to .9 after a drive.

I am thinking it might be a faulty knock sensor but I made an appointment with Agile Auto in Maryland for this saturday to take a look at it. Trying to square away some issues before I start throwing parts at my car.

Good call. If the IAM doesn't go back up to 1 after about 15-20 minutes of driving you've got other issues to sort out. Hopefully it's as easy as a faulty knock sensor.

DAM/IAM is there to save the motor for a few reasons. One simple reason is differences in gas. The worse thing your ECU can do is stay at 1 or not pull timing at all when it needs to. Air leaks, things rattling in the engine bay or bad gas are things that can affect DAM and are simple fixes. Don't keep resetting your ECU or reflashing and forcing it to be at 1 if it doesn't want to. Timing is supposed to learn that way, much like your fuel trims. Sometimes it changes.

After doing so my DAM is sitting at .6 not the 1 that is heavily recommended

 

Just to clarify this point, a DAM of 1 isn't "heavily recommended". That's the target the car shoots for after everything is accounted for when it comes to knock mitigation. The DAM is one parameter to look at and get a sense of how "happy" the car is with the tune. You may know this already but from the language above I can't really tell.

Just to clarify this point, a DAM of 1 isn't "heavily recommended". That's the target the car shoots for after everything is accounted for when it comes to knock mitigation. The DAM is one parameter to look at and get a sense of how "happy" the car is with the tune. You may know this already but from the language above I can't really tell.

 

To expand on this, DAM isn't exactly a param you can tune in as a static variable -- it's a dynamic indicator of what's going on inside the engine. There's no 'heavily recommended' about it -- if it's 1, then everything's all good. If it's <1, it's not.

Yea so quick update. Took it to the shop, found some leaks from my turbo inlet and my Throttle body hose also has a hole in it. So I am going to purchase a perrin most likely and a avo TB hose. Oh and my oem TMIC is separting after inspection. Cant wait for that tax refund

To expand on this, DAM isn't exactly a param you can tune in as a static variable -- it's a dynamic indicator of what's going on inside the engine. There's no 'heavily recommended' about it -- if it's 1, then everything's all good. If it's <1, it's not.

 

That is what my assumption was regarding the DAM. From reading everyone said that if its at 1 its good anything else its not. But when I went to the shop they said that my .9 currently isnt bad but I need to fix the issue and stay out of boost.