DIY: Walkthrough of clutch replacement of 2005 LGT w/pictures

I started to hear a noise coming and going from the transmission. This happened especially in the cold mornings. Sometimes it goes away when I press on the clutch pedal, so I suspected that the noise came from my TOB.

After some research on the forum I decided to switch to the SMFW setup so I purchased all the parts, including the Exedy clutch kit (FJK1001), OEM SWFW part number# , and 8 flywheel bolts.

Here are my notes and pictures.

Tools

Transmission jack

floor jack

Jack stands

3/8 and ½ socket wrench, 10,12,14,15,17 mm long and short socket, socket extension and some open end wrenches

Clutch kit

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0672.jpg

3.7 quart gear oil

 

Here the walkthrough begins

(Before jacking up the car)

Remove negative terminal of battery

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/valve%20cover/DSC_0586.jpg

Remove intercooler

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0746.jpg

Remove clutch cylinder, two bolts

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0747.jpg

Remove starter, two bolts, remove the negative (grounding ) cable from upper bolt

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0748.jpg

There are three sets of harnesses, unplug them

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0759.jpg

There is one ground wire on transmission, disconnect it. (I missed this cable.)

Remove pitch stop, nut at front, a bolt at the rear

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0751.jpg

Remove six bolts holding the heat shield of turbo

Remove/loosen five bolts/nuts that connect downpipe and turbo

Remove the upper three bolts that connect the bell housing and engine, there are two at passenger side, one at driver side

Now jack up the car, at least 18” height, higher the better

Remove front tires

Remove under tray of engine

Remove the nuts on the support bracket between downpipe and turbo

Remove the spring loaded nuts/bolts connect downpipe and mid pipe

Unplug the downpipe oxygen sensor. The connector is located on the transmission.

Complete remove the bolt/nuts on turbo, now the downpipe is only secured by the bolt on the bracket, undo the bolt, remove downpipe

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0760.jpg

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0761.jpg

Remove four bolts that hold the dust cover under the car

Remove/disconnect shift linkage, bolts and nuts。

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0766.jpg

Now that the propeller shaft is exposed, remove the four 12mm nuts that hold the shaft to the rear diff. Release the E-brake to turn the propeller shaft, then engage the E-brake again to hold it still. Remove two nuts/bolts at a time, the repeat the process to remove the other two bolts/nuts.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0762.jpg

Remove two bolts that hold the center support of propeller shaft

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0764.jpg

Once the last bolt of the support is removed, hold the propeller shaft with the other hand, because it is heavy and it is going to fall onto you. Slowly slide it rearward from the transmission and lay it aside. Be careful not to damage the seal on the transmission while sliding out the propeller shaft. Use a plastic bag to wrap around the transmission to prevent any gear oil from gushing out after the propeller shaft has been removed.

Remove endlinks from the front sway bars

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0755.jpg

Remove bolts of ball joints

Separate ball joint and knuckle. I used a pry bar to accomplish this.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0754.jpg

The purpose of the previous steps is to remove both front CV axles from transmission

Now drain the gear oil from the transmission.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0768.jpg

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0769.jpg

“Pop-out” the CV axle by “swing out” the knuckle.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0776.jpg

Remove the bottom bolts and nuts of bellhousing.

Now no bolt/nuts are holding transmission and engine together, only by two dowel pins on each side.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0817.jpg

Move the transmission jack under the transmission, and support it firmly.

Get ready to remove crossmember. The rear support of transmission.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0786.jpg

Now get to the front of engine and place some 2x4 to keep the engine from tilting forward. The reason is to keep the engine “level” after removing the transmission. You need to keep engine level.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0869.jpg

Now “officially” remove crossmember。

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0773.jpg

 

There are two big bolts holding the front of crossmember, four small bolts on the rear.

 

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0783.jpg

 

I marked all the bolts/nuts with notes, so later I know where to put them back.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0779.jpg

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0787.jpg

After crossmember is removed, the only support for transmission is on the transmission jack.

Now start separating the transmission from the engine.

I pulled the transmission toward the rear of car, wiggle and pull, wiggle and pull.

After seeing a small gap between transmission and engine, I used a big screw driver to pry it open. Do this evenly.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0794.jpg

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0796.jpg

Now I encountered the first problem: I forgot to take into account the grounding cable on the transmission, so when I started lowering down the transmission, the transmission got caught by that cable and started (slowly) to turn sideways, and was about to slide out from the transmission jack. Luckily I was able to catch the transmission using my creeper. So the transmission was able to slide out of the car smoothly.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0797.jpg

Clean the bell housing, clean the fork and replace the release bearing (throw out bearing)

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0798.jpg

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0811.jpg

Applied some high-temp grease on to the contact parts. (Pivot ball where fork sits and input shaft housing)

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0832.jpg

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0833.jpg

Remove the old pressure plate and clutch disc from the engine.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0822.jpg

I used this tool to hold the crank shaft from turning. There are six bolts to hold the pressure plate.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/timingbelt/DSC_0113-001.jpg

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0826.jpg

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0827.jpg

Now I encountered my second issue: these eight Torx 50 plus bolts that holds the dual mass flywheel do not want to be removed.

Those Torx bolts are so easy to strip, I don’t think I stripped any of them, but they are just not moving at all.

Well, since I cannot remove my dual mass flywheel, and as this car is my DD, I need to get the new OEM clutch disc and pressure plate from the dealer. I don’t have much time to explore and I am not prepared to use any “violent” measures to remove those stupid Torx bolts.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0845.jpg

Well, on the positive side, I think my old flywheel is still in okay shape. The pilot bearing is still turning smoothly.

New VS old.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0834.jpg

Old clutch disc.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0836.jpg

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0837.jpg

Use the alignment tool to install the clutch disc and pressure plate. Use star pattern to torque the pressure plate down. Six bolts and the torque is 11.8 foot/pound.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0849.jpg

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0846.jpg

Remove the alignment tool, and prepare to mate the transmission back onto engine.

I don’t like the slick surface of the transmission jack, so I modified it a bit first. I built some support to help better secure the transmission on the jack (Those 2x4 were too tall. They were trimmed later).

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0830.jpg

Another issue is the clearance: it’s too high to have the transmission sitting on the jack and slide it under the car. So I designed a transmission hoist.

The plan is to use the creeper to slide the transmission back under the car, use my homemade hoist and the tie down cable (1000 pound capacity) to lift it up, then use transmission jack to support the transmission once it is high enough.

The transmission hoist is supported on both sides of engine bay.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0812.jpg

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0855.jpg

It works!

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0851.jpg

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0852.jpg

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0861.jpg

I lifted the transmission up and used the transmission jack and a bottle jack to align the bellhousing to the two lower bolts on the engine.

From what I have found on the Internet, many people seemed to struggle a lot here. I was prepared to spend hours mating engine and transmission together.

To my surprise, mine is done in 30 minutes!

After the bottom two bolts are inside the bell housing, I tried to level the transmission with the engine. Once both parties were perfectly leveled/aligned, all I needed was a gentle push to put the input shaft back into clutch disc. Not much force was needed. Also, I did not experience the “turbo clearance” issue.

I guess the hoist made the transmission “free float” in the air. It helped a lot, as it automatically leveled the transmission and allowed only minor adjustments and supports to aim for the perfect alignment.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0859.jpg

After the transmission is back to the engine, just install everything back in the reverse order.

Don’t forget to add the gear oil.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0864.jpg

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0870.jpg

Test drive went well! So happy! The clutch pedal engages at a higher point, will adjust.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/10655355_10152492419849755_1081105534874927043_o.jpg

Oh by the way, the Exedy clutch kit is for sale now, minus the throw out bearing, of course.

Getting ready to do this, thanks for the pics and steps!

How many miles on your LGT?

subscribed for future funsies.

Nice walk-through OP. Although I would have still gotten rid of that dual mass flywheel. One of our cars still has it and I hate the feel of it!

How many miles on your LGT?

A bit over than one hundred thousand miles when TOB started to make noise.

Replace the clutch like two month later.

Nice walk-through OP. Although I would have still gotten rid of that dual mass flywheel. One of our cars still has it and I hate the feel of it!

Thanks!

Believe me, I wanted to get rid of that DMFW. Maybe next time when I have another car for my daily commute...

Thanks!

Believe me, I wanted to get rid of that DMFW. Maybe next time when I have another car for my daily commute...

 

You were right there. An OEM SMFW surely was not that expensive and has no bearing on whether or not the car is a daily driver. It's a direct swap OEM for OEM, and driveability is stock, not like a LWFW.

You were right there. An OEM SMFW surely was not that expensive and has no bearing on whether or not the car is a daily driver. It's a direct swap OEM for OEM, and driveability is stock, not like a LWFW.

Sorry I think I confused you.

When I did this replacement, (last year) I just did not have much time/tool/skill to handle those stubborn Torx bolts.

If I have another car that I can use, then I don't have to worry about the downtime.

Really awesome write up! Sorry to hear about the struggles with the Torx bolts but sounds like you made the smart decision to not mess with it. I would have and then been like shit, why did I do that. Though I have had other vehicles to choose from for DD duties.

Really awesome write up! Sorry to hear about the struggles with the Torx bolts but sounds like you made the smart decision to not mess with it. I would have and then been like shit, why did I do that. Though I have had other vehicles to choose from for DD duties.

Thank you for the nice words!

Yes, I am glad I did not mess with them, they are eight chances to fail. even if I managed to take 7 off. Still in deep dog poo...

Salute to those who can do take them down!

After installing the new clutch, the clutch pedal engaged higher than before. Here is the walk-through of how I adjusted the engagement point of the clutch pedal.

The push rod is right above the gas pedal, and even though the clutch pedal is located to the far left, it uses a “push and turn” mechanism to transfer that pressing motion of the clutch pedal to a push rod right above the gas pedal.

That push rod pushes through the fire wall to activate the hydraulic system, triggering the system to push the cylinder. The cylinder pushes the fork, and the fork pushes the TOB. The TOB moves forward to the pressure plate….

This is the diagram of the pedals

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/push%20rod.jpg

Tools needed:

12 mm open wrench.

A sharpie.

Anti-dizziness medication (You need to get into a tight space and work upside down. I get dizzy).

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0901.jpg

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0882.jpg

Loosen that 12mm nut

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0884.jpg

Turn that push rod.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0894.jpg

Mark that push rod face with a sharpie, so you know how much you have turned.

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll51/LMT16/15%20clutch/DSC_0893.jpg

I turned about 3 quarters and went out to test drive.

It is close to the engagement point before the clutch replacement.

Done!

Just to add to this sorry if i missed it but for those with a SpecB do not forget about these steps which are taken from the wsti website.

 

16. Remove slave cylinder and set aside. (14mm socket) Fig 18

17. Remove clutch fork shaft access plug. (14mm hex) Fig 19

18. Remove clutch fork shaft by installing a 6mm bolt and pulling outward. Fig 20

19. Release the fork from the bearing by lifting and pushing back simultaneously. Fig 21

 

This will disengage your throwout bearing making it possible to split the transmission from the engine. The 6mt transmission throw out bearing is attached to the pressure plate while the 5mt is not.