bman Posted May 21, 2011 Share Posted May 21, 2011 The Driver's window rolled up for the last time last night. It was working fine and then it wouldn't roll down. I checked all of the other windows and they work fine. I took the master switch apart today and cleaned up all of the contacts and put it back together. I reinstalled it and nothing changed. Did the switch burn out? I'm debating whether to buy a used switch off ebay (~$50) or buy a new one (~$150). My wife thinks I should buy a new one if they're prone to burning out. What should I do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HCF Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 My switch gets slightly stuck in the up position from time to time. When it is like this, you have to play with it a bit to get the window to go down. I feel the driver switch is not the greatest master switch ever created, it depends on if you are keeping the car. If you're going to trade within the year, id grab a used one. Do you hear a click in the fuse panel when you push the switch? It is possible the window motor died. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 Had mine replaced under warranty years ago. It did the same thing as yours. I just bought a new rear hatch mechanism for the wagon, it should be here later this week. It would lock but not unlock. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bman Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share Posted May 23, 2011 I wiggled, jiggled, flipped, smacked, and swore at the switch and it never moved the window. I just ordered a new switch from Fred Beans. $130 shipped. With the key on "Acc" I don't hear anything when I move the switch (other than the switch). I hope it's not the motor. I thought the motor had an overheat sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 I'm sure it's the switch, there's has been a few of us with the issue. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bman Posted May 30, 2011 Author Share Posted May 30, 2011 I got a new switch from Fred Beans. I replaced it and the driver's window still doesn't go down. I double checked the motor connection too. It doesn't sound like the motor is even working when I move the switch. ARGH! What's next? Do I replace the window motor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 Wow, then it must be the motor. I hope you saved the old door switch, can you check voltage to see if the motors getting power. You should be able to find a local mechanic that can check voltage and tell you what is wrong before you spend more money. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 What you should have done, was not jump to the conclusion that the switch was faulty. Now you are out $130 you might not have had to spend. Pull the door card off, check to see if the motor is getting power. Continue diagnosis. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bman Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 Yeah. I would love to get that money back. I was hoping to do a quick swap. I don't have a lot of time now that my kid is teething (he's a fussy mess). I've got a multimeter. I can check the voltage at the leads to the motor. It looks like RockAuto got reman'd motors for $100. If it's the motor how much do you think I can get for this new switch? Anyone have a diagram of the window assembly? I didn't get a good look since it's all mounted(hidden) inside the door frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 Sent you a PM with some nice "vacation pic's" that will have the complete diagram. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bman Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 Max, thanks for the diagrams! It makes me wonder if replacing the window motor is something I can do? I've done brake jobs but, this seems completely different. I looks like the glass needs to be removed and there's a possibility that the window will be out of alignment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 Hopefully one of the smarter guy's will pick up on this thread soon and be able to give you some tips... Have you posted this in the Tech forum ? I hate to keep using him, but BAC5.2 has been a big help to me. May be PM him. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bman Posted June 4, 2011 Author Share Posted June 4, 2011 I just checked the leads to the window motor and they're definitely getting power (+\- 12V). Both the new and the old switch work (bummer - I didn't need the new switch afterall). I'll post to Tech and see if anyone's ever changed the window motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyrojones Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 I just fell into this trap... its driving me crazy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 I have replaced several motors/regulators in different cars, luckly I haven't had the pleasure of doing the LGT. Most importantly and before you purchase a new motor, check the regulator and make sure it's not broken anywhere. Disconnect the motor and see if the glass will move freely up/down within the frame. I have found a few times if the regulator is broken, it could cause the glass to stick/freeze in it's location. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheerio Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Can I buy ur old switch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheerio Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Mines is actually broke and I know it's not the motor. the switch get stuck so I have to stop it myself and it's getting annoying Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leviman Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 You can actually take apart your switch and lube it up again so it doesn't stick. I've done it. All that happens is the lube they put on there from the factory gets worn off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drodda Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 I just replaced the driver side switch on my Subaru and it took care of a few issues I was having with rolling down the passenger windows but the driver side is not working. The wires seem fine, no fuses blown. Is the motor the last thing to look at or is there more to it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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