my boost situation

i currently have a cobb intake, IPR tmic, AVO throttle body hose, perrin spacer with o ring gasket on both sides, catles cnt down and sti up and a act hd clutch with wrx flywheel. also a recirculated hks v2. i recently started hitting ten pounds of boost which was weird because im tuned for 18 tapering to 15 by redline. i figured the boost solenoid was shot because i checked and checked again for boost leaks around the turbo as well as a possible exhaust leak at the down nd up pipes and found none. Soo i put in a Hallman manual boost controller, and plugged the line that runs to the solenoid thus eliminating the solenoid all together. the car seems to run well with the MBC holding a steady 15 psi straight to redline. i have the MBC basically closed until i can get it to my tuner. ive been messing around and noticed that i cant turn the boost up. i know its dangerous but ive been messing around trying to dial in a little more boost. is my wastegate stuck or am i "overboosting" according to my ecu and being denied as a fail safe. i guess by switching to mbc without the apropriate tune that my car is wondering why im not getting a signal to the solenoid nd also has to compensate for the quicker and more steady boost. keep in mind i was tuned for my mods prior to switching to MBC. advice or experience with this situation would be aprreciated guys. sorry for the story but i want u guys to know what im working with for diagnosis.

Post logs or LV please, or go to your tuner before you do any real damage.

yeah...my samsung tablet with RR on it crapoed the bed..or it is just super slow and not really good for logging. i plan on going to my tuner this week. dont u think that boost from the wastegate spring or a touch over (12-14 psi) should be safe until then? i mean it still smells like a chevelle hahah and it was tuned to spike 20 and taper to 17 by red. i have had some small fuel mods done but stok turbo.

Without seeing some data I wouldn't like to speculate on how safe it is to drive the car.

True. I need to get tuned and have a look this week.

You need to make getting LV running your FIRST priority if you want to keep driving that car.

im teaching my self how to log with RR right now. i got a look at my af through the rpms while holding 15 and its dips to 11.1 so im going to stay clear of boost until i can get it to my tuner. should i search "learning view"?

learning view is a helpful tool. google "learning view download romraider"

While learning view does not offer the options and parameters of RR, it is also a different tool and very useful. Firstly, its useful at a standstill in front of your house and tells you about knock and afr.

 

If you are able to RR you can LV. Its easier to get working and super simple to use. My wife can take a LV if I ask her to and she has no interest in learning about cars. Its that easy.

i got the ebay cable and learning view and RR loaded on my old ass samsung Q1 tablet. i will try to connect and get a look and post ASAP

I'm having a similiar problem, unable to get over 10psi, with a Cobb stage 2 tune,upipe,down,midpipe,had it checked for leaks okay,changed out pill for another one,still the same. Going to a tuner in Pittsburgh before going stage 3.

what pill did u look at? i also got a tiny boost leak cleared up at my turbo/TMIC gasket causing low boost OBV.

finaly advice and not flaming! yeah i get learning view. im a mac guy and got this slow little pc tablet with rr and LV on it. i downloaded the drivers etc but cant connect. or it doesnt show the cable. i need a pro to sit with me just once or maybe walk me thru it on the phone. it keeps saying i need car definitions and i download "them" but it doesnt do anything. please guys....bear with me

So...anything OP? If you've installed the drivers for the cable, LV is as simple as double clicking an icon and hitting connect. The reason people are asking you to post it is that your IAM is probably almost 0 from excessive knock causing the ecu to disable boost and keeping you at spring pressure. In other words, the ecu is trying not to assplode (BMX) your engine.

 

are u saying that possible knock could be the reason for low boost? this makes perfect sense as the car would pull and timing if the knock were detected...also a CEL would trigger. ive looked at the paramaters of the car using my torque app tool and the car is running fine. what do u think could cause knock in this situation

ive just looked at af, enginge load, intake temp, manifold pressure, checked the accuracy of my boost gauge, checked for all boost leaks anywhere and found none. ive looked at my timing and knock if there were any which there isnt. atmospheric temp, has changed slightly but nothing crazy. i think that my car needs a tune. my clutch was done a month ago. the batterry was taken out and the whole intercooler and TB hose were removed and installed by someone other than myself. i think the problem is that I didnt do it as nobody knows my car like me and there may have been leaks somewhere. i do not see knocking or any misfire codes at all. my scanner says my car has no codes etc

i used to work at subaru as a tech and i wish i had access to some of their gear right about now!

put up an lv

my F'N tablet wont let learning view work...gotta look into getting windows on my

macbook