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1991 Fuse Box Diagram


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Found the info I was looking for (diagram) but I have a few fuse-related questions, please:

 

Is it okay to have a fuse with a smaller number than what's listed on the case? One is a 15 but I see that it's supposed to be a 20. Not sure how that all works.

 

If I check a fuse with the test light and it doesn't work, and then I replace it with one that did work (in another spot, same number) why won't it work in the second location? Lastly, what do I use for a ground inside the car when I'm trying to check the fuses on the driver's side.

 

Thank you.

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Yeah, but if it's supposed to be a 20 go ahead. I believe a fuse is there so in the case where the power runs too high through that circuit it will pop the fuse instead of cooking the wiring or something like that.

 

Was the old fuse blown? Does it pop the new fuse?

I'm pretty sure you can use any bolt that goes straight

into the body (metal) of the car as your ground.

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I used the test light on all of the fuses (hood area). The ones that didn't work appeared fine..the filament/metal part was intact, no melting or anything that stood out.. They just wouldn't light up. I also figured out about "spares".. lol.. So much of this new info will stick in my brain better because I have made so many mistakes and had to laugh at myself.

 

ie: Test lights do not work if you don't remove red plastic tip.. lol

 

I must be doing something wrong while I check the cabin fuses. I have tried different areas of the door for ground and cannot get any of the fuses to light up. The car isn't running but it's set to the "on" position. The light worked well with the hood fuses.

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Found the info I was looking for (diagram) but I have a few fuse-related questions, please:

 

where can i too get the diagram, normally under the fuse cover, mine is written in Japanese which I dont understand and whenever something goes wrong I check the whole fuse box- next to drivers foot.

 

For the fuses use the correct ratings only to avoid smoke and fire.

I do use the ignition key hole as ground, for my meter, whenever i cant get open metal for ground on drivers area.

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Gilbert, this is what my fuse box cover looks like (under the hood). I also have a photo of the one in the left kick area (driver's side), if you want that.

 

http://s1116.photobucket.com/albums/k577/runnerbud/?action=view&current=FUSEHoodLID.jpg

 

@ Liberty10,

Thanks for the welcome,

Thanks very much for everything, would & actually need the one on the drivers kick panel, and appreciate the one posted.

best regards.

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Oh, yours didnt have any English on it at all? Was it shipped straight from Japan?

 

The fuse cover on drivers leg area, has no English at all,

I think it was shipped straight, though am a second owner, not a first owner.

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Dang, that's rough. Did your car come with an owners manual? It may tell it in there.

 

not that either, orig owner couldnt trace it.

the net has become my user manual LOL, downloaded or

read about most areas of great interest, like the legacy owners assn. plus other forums have been of great help for the dont's and do's.

Had a glf before this.

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Man...that sucks. I guess this is as reliable a source as any. I have an owners booklet from a 92 just lying around in my room if you want it though. It's for the US model, but it'd still probably be more useful than nothing.
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Man...that sucks. I guess this is as reliable a source as any. I have an owners booklet from a 92 just lying around in my room if you want it though. It's for the US model, but it'd still probably be more useful than nothing.

That would be great as it would be better compared to what I have copied on the net. If you would let me know whwat it would cost to post normal airmail, for fedex or dhl are farely expensive - would compensate you.

thanks for your kindness, may He reward you more.

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Most of this new knowledge felt like it was in Japanese to me, too - or Greek!

 

But I have translators with patience, methinks :) That's a generous offer, LW.. How come I don't receive any presents? Huh? Huh? lol

 

@L10,

 

Its great for the diagrams you posted and someone must have done the same to you B4, to get that helping hand, whatever you need and Iam in position - I will assure you get. :)

Still looking for fusercover by drivers legs - in english, you can please upload for me what you have.

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Hi Gilbert

 

I was just teasing LW - it's what I do best. lol

 

Here's the fuse box cover from down by the driver's left leg, in English! :) I hope it's the same as what you need. Remember that mine is a '91 (Sedan)

 

As requested:

 

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k577/runnerbud/InteriorFUSE2.jpg

 

http://i1116.photobucket.com/albums/k577/runnerbud/LEFTFuseBox1.jpg

 

Hope it helps!

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Thanks Liberti 10,

good to know you were just at your best, makes a happy day for me. :)

 

Thats what I needed in the language I can read & understand,

will check with my cover in the evening and get back the report, for now

it looks exactly that.

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Found the info I was looking for (diagram) but I have a few fuse-related questions, please:

 

Is it okay to have a fuse with a smaller number than what's listed on the case? One is a 15 but I see that it's supposed to be a 20. Not sure how that all works.

 

When working with fuses, it is ok to go DOWN but never go up, the fuses are rated in amps and are designed to be the weakest link in the circuit, if a fuse is rated for 20 Amps the wiring in that circuit is not thick enough to handle 25 and if there is a malfunction in the circuit the wire could not handle the higher amperage which equates to heat which could equate to fire. By changing to a lower rated fuse, the only problem that could occur is the fuse could blow even though the circuit is operating properly.

 

If I check a fuse with the test light and it doesn't work, and then I replace it with one that did work (in another spot, same number) why won't it work in the second location? Lastly, what do I use for a ground inside the car when I'm trying to check the fuses on the driver's side.

 

Thank you.

 

Now when you say you checked the fuse with the test light and it does not work, do you mean one side glows and the other side doesnt? if neither side lights that means the circuit is not being energized at the time of the test, for example if your ignition is turned off, certain circuits are powered off, when you turn the ignition on they may be powered on, but in other instances they wont it all depends on the design of the circuit and how its switched on etc...

As for what ground to use, it does not much matter, any piece of bare metal inside the vehicle will work, I like to use the hinges, or any bolt that is screwed into the vehicle. make certain to test your test light first.

 

Now lets talk a little bit about why fuses blow. A blown fuse is blown for a reason, in the 20 some years I have worked on cars I have only replaced a bad fuse a couple once or twice that I could not find a reason for the amperage to be high, and I still cannot explain the reasoning in those situations. The only things that are going to cause a fuse to blow are listed below.

1. a direct short between power and ground,

2. a defective component (with an internal short between power and ground)

3. someone modified a circuit. ie adding an aftermarket device to an existing circuit. I have seen some really crazy stuff here.

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Thanks ShopTeacher for that clarification it helps to understand,

& Liberty10 will be smiling to the fusebox :)

 

Man...you guys need to post up pictures of your cars.

i did on avatar, but it became wee tiny :lol: where else?

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Good morning, Gilbert (oh so far away)

 

I can't imagine having to figure out Japanese features while I was trying to figure out what a fuse IS.. lol Sure hope it works out for you.

 

Howdy, ShopTeacher

 

When I tested the fuse box under the hood I made sure the ignition key was turned to "on" but I didn't have the car running. Yes, I'd make sure that the fuse would light up from side-to-side. Then I moved onto learning that there are spares and that they wouldn't be lighting up. The relays threw me, of course, as I had no idea how to test those. (I'd only been shown how to test the regular fuses).

 

That's as far as my comfort level goes with electricity. I don't mind frustration, getting dirty, or anything else about working on my vehicle, but the electrical stuff scares me to the point of holding my breath and thinking, "Please don't blow up". I won't add an "lol" because I'm not joking.

 

I print forum information and add it to my manual. You've been published :)

 

@LW - Oh yes, I've been lusting for a throttle position sensor whatever-the-heck-that-is, for such a long time! lol What do you mean, "post pics"? You don't believe that my large Kermit rides shotgun? He does.

 

My car doesn't really have a good side to photograph. Maybe at night. lol

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Yeah, it did turn out pretty tiny haha

I think we had a thread on here about posting pictures of your cars.

 

Oh, I bet you are!

 

Neither does mine. The driver is scraped up and the front fender is rusting off behind the wheel and the passenger side has a big dent in the fender that I tried to pop out...didnt work out all that well haha

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Thanks Liberti 10,

good to know you were just at your best, makes a happy day for me. :)

 

Thats what I needed in the language I can read & understand,

will check with my cover in the evening and get back the report, for now

it looks exactly that.

 

Haha,

just have a peek and the covers are different, but I thought one might just read them out when I post photo.

DSC01301.JPG.6458e322e9fece0cc2832000e153d126.JPG

DSC01302.JPG.a8fe5d5fe1594fc7da3c89ec071f3612.JPG

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Oh wow, that really IS Japanese.. lol

 

Good morning, Gilbert (or maybe it's night time over there).

 

So, you're just going to compare my cover info with yours, or are you needing anything else from my end? I'll phone our auto wrecker and see if one of the cars up there match yours. Then I can scoop the information from the fuse box cover. Have to wait until they open the shop though.

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