What'd you do to your FIRST Gen. Subaru today?

Wow man, those are some great prices for those motors...I just spent 900 in december to get my ej22 for my bd, Damn. What is the Japanese motor code for the turbocharhed ej20 Dohc?

 

Most likely its an open deck ej20g, I was lucky to get a closed deck ej20g, the jdm importer didn't know the difference. It really doesn't make a difference until you've really built the motor. The ej20k has better flowing heads than the 20g series here's a good post for engine codes. http://www.subyclub.com/index.php/topic/3500-subaru-model-engine-codes-explained/

they have 3 settings. intermittent without adjustability, slow, fast.

 

Right. I upgraded to the better version that has what...5 intermittent settings? Plus slow and fast.

Put in a new CV axle today. The old one about disintegrated when I pulled the hub out. No more clickety-clacking.

I've been fighting mysterious oil levels, since this is the first time I've used synthetic on the 1st Gen. The motor is rebuilt and has about 700 miles on it now (chassis is at 187K). I changed it a few days ago and trying to get a good reading is just stupid. I never had this problem with conventional oil, that takes into account about 100 oil changes. Low, off the dipstick when cold in the morning, when hot it appears very overfull. Whatever. It purrs like a kitten, except with the A/C on.... it is surging at red lights so I need to look into whichever gadget runs on electrons that is causing a problem.

 

Oh, what did I do with the car today... I took the hurt B25 heads to the machine shop so they can be re-worked. Now time to buy/make a shortblock and source the other bits and pieces, and get this 06 LGT on the road and on the selling block.

Can someone give me a feelgood that i am lining this up right. I read the fsm but the pictures are not clear. It's the crank sprocket mark and the oil pump. Want to make sure i understand it.

 

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You got it right. Just get the cam sprockets lined up right and get the belt on - count your teeth hopefully the new belt has marks for ease (44 teeth to the passenger side cam, 40.5 to the drivers side). I found it 1000x easier to leave the tensioner OUT (I mean the old style single piston one) until you have the belt fully on and lined up properly. Then you can squeeze the tensioner in there and get it bolted up, triple check it all, pry it and bolt it in and then pull the pin on your tensioner.

 

Do you need an idler? I have a bunch sitting around, used but OK. But if the budget allows of course the best thing is all new idlers and a new belt. And water pump if able.

I did buy the whole timing belt kit with all new idlers and belt. I can't afford a water pump right now but i did get the oil pump seal.

You can find the GMB 160-1120 water pump for about $30 shipped on ebay

Ripped the MSD coil off!!!! What a waste of money. Only had it on for about 3 weeks and noticed a very minor loss in power and was causing a slight miss on accel. Put the stock back on and runs much better.......

Ripped the MSD coil off!!!! What a waste of money. Only had it on for about 3 weeks and noticed a very minor loss in power and was causing a slight miss on accel. Put the stock back on and runs much better.......

 

What a coincidence, I was just thinking about asking people their reviews on the msd coil on our engines, now I'm having second thoughts. Thank you!

How does that msd work? Is it one coil or two? I was having issues with my standalone ems and the factory 20g coil on plug packs. I swapped to the AEM coilpacks and haven't had an issue yet, one issue was the dwell time(time coil takes to charge) of the ecu and the dwell of the coils not matching. The aem coilpacks can accept a wide range of dwell time. I run sequential firing, They can be ran in wasted spark also, but at 80$ a piece they're not cheap. For me, I needed them cuz I kept frying factory C.O.Ps

What a coincidence, I was just thinking about asking people their reviews on the msd coil on our engines, now I'm having second thoughts. Thank you!

 

 

just stick to oem style...... no need to mess around and install something not designed for another engine.

Started my roadtrip/ vacation. Drove about 400 miles today from az to ca, averaged 28mpg. Only fun part was when I pulled up next to a subaru brz, pontiac soltice and Hyundai veloster turbo on the I-10 thru palm springs, All at the same time. The brz and veloster were being playful for about 15 minutes of hound and hare through traffic. I threw the thumbs up and peace sign to the brz driver but he just looked at me like I was mistaken. People are so rude here in so-Cali, remembered why I moved away. I returned the favor by pulling hard on him, twice from about 65-90. He should have known it was a subie after that. Edited June 2, 2013 by USLiberty

New front struts installed. What a difference! Now just got to find the time for the rears.

I lost my drivers side turn signal assembly. The plastic tabs that hold the bolts broke and it popped out on the freeway. It flopped around for a minute and then disconnected and smashed on the road. hopefully I can make it to the junkyard tomorrow after work before it closes.

I lost my drivers side turn signal assembly. The plastic tabs that hold the bolts broke and it popped out on the freeway

 

You too? Mine did that a while ago, so I checker flag duct taped it back into place.

 

She's not pretty, but she's certainly silly.

I picked up a used wrx pedal set/clutch cylinder/shifter assembly/knob and boot for 111$ on ebay. I'm stoked cuz my legacy ss pedals were worn and shifter bushings were going bad. I think the wrx has a different clutch pedal assembly because my ss clutch feels much different than my buddies 06 wrx despite having the same clutch. I was thinking it had a different leverage point or something, either way the aluminum pedals are way better than my bare steel, not to mention how slick it is when its wet out. Anyone know where to get aftermarket lower control arm bushings? I've already determined that whiteline doesn't make SS sway bar bushings anymore so those will have to be replaced with oem spec. :-( Edited June 24, 2013 by USLiberty

Well, it wasn't today, but it was yesterday, and for the past few weeks... Been continuing my work on the many dents and poor paintwork of my '93 L But its getting there, and will look pretty darn good when I'm done.

 

Also, on a separate note, I went RWD yesterday. It is shockingly easy to do so with a 4EAT as well, and from what I've heard if you know how to weld, or have a buddy that does its easy in a 5-speed too.

 

Anywho, I had already wired in a center diff-lock switch for 50/50 on-demand which is covered very well on rs25.com and I picked up a set of used front CVs from the junkyard for cheap. I proceeded to remove the outside splined hubs of the CV shafts by removing the boot and just knocking the ends off with a hammer, they are just held on with a circlip which allows them to just pop on and off. I pulled my CV shafts, (took about 25 mins), and then bolted in the outer splined end of the CV shafts into the cars hubs to keep the wheel bearings in place. Bolted the wheels back on, made sure my 4x4 button was depressed and went for a spin!

 

I can say that despite some peoples beliefs, the center clutch pack is completely strong enough when the duty C is applying full lock to run in RWD and do whatever you want. I was able to spin the rear tires on dry pavement easily, get the back end to rotate around with just a goose of the throttle, and it just generally made the car a whole lot more fun to drive.

 

I cant say how long the rear diff or rear CV shafts will last, but right now I'm running 2.2L NA power through a 4EAT so I'm not too worried, eventually I'll be manual-swapping and turbo-ing, so that will be the real test.

 

And for pics, heres one fo the non-existant CV shaft and a little test in the garage. Disclaimer: I was being careful and just applied the brakes and gently applied more and more throttle to test and see if the center clutch pack was going to slip, it didn't and the tires did, and I was ok with that.

 

P.P.S: My center clutch pack was working exactly as it should before this, AWD functioned normally, FWD functioned when fuse was inserted, no binding etc.

Edited June 25, 2013 by Kookookachew

Driver's side door handle is all jacked. It sticks up and won't go down unless you smack it hrd. Ill have to investigate when I'm not working.

The cheapo ball joint I installed a year and a half ago was about to fail. Replaced it with an OEM. I had the AC system checked out at the dealership. The O-rings are leaking so I ordered new ones. I was hoping they could recharge the system with the old type of refrigerant but it looks like Ill have to get it converted which is going to run about $200.

 

I guess the car fund is going towards maintenance instead of mods, . But with 100 degree temps the AC will be nice to have. When I pulled the engine to do the HGs I disconnected the AC and have since learned that you can supposedly just push it aside.

I had the AC system checked out at the dealership. The O-rings are leaking so I ordered new ones. I was hoping they could recharge the system with the old type of refrigerant but it looks like Ill have to get it converted which is going to run about $200.

 

I'm having my a/c compressor replaced today, there are few things I really need in my dd but a/c is definitely one of them. My mechanic gave me the option between R-12 and converting to 134. I opted to go with the old R-12.

Got the o-rings and new valves installed and a flush and recharge. AC works great! Handling is much better with the new ball joint. Got to test it out on some nice canyon twisties.

 

I wish I could have gone with the old r-12 as it is supposed to blow colder but I got cold with the new stuff, lol.

Got my A/C done yesterday as well, mechanic went ahead and converted it to 134a said it didn't take anything, plus the 134a will be cheaper in the future. Love that A/C.

Yeah the conversion to 134a is really easy on the 1st Gen Leggies.

 

But, R12 can be colder, however it is more expensive and fewer shops still have it nowadays. Most want $60-80 just to wheel out their R12 rigs and hook it up, let alone the cost of the 'fridge itself.

 

My 93 had IIICE cold AC on all original parts, last summer when I fixed the car up and got it running again.

 

My 94 has ICE cold AC still also, all original. Knocking on wood for both as I type.

I went out on an excursion to find a place to rebuild my motor, or to find a new long block. The trip started off poorly and ended on a good note. The first guy wanted 2,000 to rebuild the motor. I literally laughed.

 

The second guy said he's never done one and wasn't about to start. I stopped at several "Japanese Engine" shops one said there aren't anymore 22s lying around again I laughed. The second guy said he'd give me a price on monday.

 

Now I'm sourcing all the odds and ends for the parts I need as I've decided to rebuild it myself. I found a place to deck the block and heads. And now I just need to buy the rest of the things I need hopefully I can get into this next month.

Alright guys wondering if you could render an opinion for me again. I put the timing belt on the cruck today but it looks like i'm off on the pass camshaft and the crank mark. I just decided to give it up for today and will probably readjust tomorrow, but what do you guys think from the pictures. pictures 2 and 3 are the drivers side which i think is right the bottom two pics are the pass side which looks off but moving it a whole tooth might make it worse.

Edited July 14, 2013 by scoobydoo73