Installed gauges, lot a pics and question?

Ok guys, got the Cobalts installed and I must say I am freakin pretty good. The scariest part was tapping a bung into my down pipe to install the EGT sensor. Put it under the downpipe about 2" from the exhaust port for the most accurate readings.

 

Now the boost gauge to be the most accurate needs to attach into the intake manifold right before the air disperses to the individual cylinders. Subaru took care of that for us by installing a small bung and vacuum tube right in the front of the intake manifold, right where the pressure makes it to each cyclinder. Just have to cut one hose and put the T in, easy man!

 

Ran the wiring into the passenger side gaint grommet for the heater up to the dash vent pocket. The light in that pocket is perfect for the 12V connection for the lighting.

 

I am thinking of running a reostate to control the brightness of the gauges. I found that when you remove the center vent, the dash lights will not dimm down when turning on the headlights, so the actual dimmer control is in that piece that has the temperature gauge and mileage gauge. The little switch that dims the lights on the left side of the steering wheel still work, but the dash lights are still too brite, until I plugged the connection back in. I do not know enough about wiring to figure out how to connect the light to the dimmer switch at this point.

 

Unless someone else knows, is there a way to tap into that for dimming adjustment besides what I am going to do?

 

Last thing, I know the color does not exactly match, but I think it looks freakin sweet, and am real happy with my install. The gauges seem to be very accurate. If done again, I would get gauges that have a control unit for the adjustability.

Hodgeee,

 

Nice....

 

Can you post pic for the bung "Subaru took care of that for us by installing a small bung and vacuum tube right in the front of the intake manifold, right where the pressure makes it to each cyclinder. Just have to cut one hose and put the T in". Are they 52mm gauges? Thanks.

is the backround a piece of Folder (like u buy at office depot)? Cuz if it is, it looks good

what size gayges are those and how much hacking did it take ..i have mine set up in my cup holder area

They are 52’s. Hodgeee do you think 60’s would fit. I want Defi gauges and like the cubby install!! Looks great!

Ok, 52 mm gauges, fit just right in the cubby hole. If you want to run 60mm gauges you will not be able to close the door. The 52's are about as tight as you can get, and only enought room for 2 in the pocket. If you remove the door and cover the whole panel, and remove the whole pocket together, you can get 3 52mm gauges side by side with no gap between them to fit flush in there. The backing plate is 1/4" thick high density particle board, regular particle board is not strong enough in my taste, covered with texured thick black vinyl. The gauges are then secured with clear silicone caulking in the back where you see I cut the back out of the pocket. They are all glued in there. There is a nice little lip in the pocket that my backing plate is just pushed up against and glued there. It is solidly mounted, and fits flush with the interior pocket as you can see in the picture.

 

The new pic shows the vacuum hookup, removed one hose so that you can see the T, and then to the sender unit. It is important that vacuum line comes straight down out the sender unit to prevent any condensation which can give you false readings.

 

Then finally you can see where I cut into the factory gromet to run the lines.

nice job !!! Almost looks factory. Anyone make red backlit guages?

looks good

Looks good.... How did you mount the mounting plate in the cubby?

Whoa- that Perrin dp is pretty damn close to the firewall!

Whoa- that Perrin dp is pretty damn close to the firewall!

 

Dang brother! You're right!

 

Perrin should run a package price for solid motor mounts with their downpipes!

 

Makes me think twice.

 

Excellent guage install ... how much are the guages?

 

I am definitely looking into doing the same thing with my car. Very useful location.

Perrin pipe is close, but there is no heat soke yet, and never touches, also that picture is a little decieving, the pic was at a funny angle, and it has about 1/2" of clearance. The gauges were $120 for the Bost Vac, and $160 for the Pyrometer. The backing plate is just glued to the lip in the box, and the gauges are silicone glued in the box, and to the backing plate. I think that red or white lit gauges would look better myself also. May change out the gauges later to other autometer gauges if the electric connections are the same. The contrasting blue looks pretty damn good at night, but I am a little bothered it doesn't really match at all. Omorimeter guages from J-spec tunning are the best looking gauges that match the best for the dash gauge color. I just don't know after spending $400 if I am willing to change them again!

What does it look like at night with the door shut? Can you see the blue light?

What does it look like at night with the door shut? Can you see the blue light?

hodgeee

Yes, I just put a resistor on it two days ago to dimm it down, it was too bright and my cabin glowed cobalt blue. The blue is not as easy to see as say indiglo, or white back lighting, but easy enough once you know the gauge, and with three colors in the cabin now, it is pretty cool. Plus now the lighting looks all about the same intensity.

Sorry to bring this old thing up again, but can someone answer me a few questions? When installing the vacuum lines for a boost gauge are there any rules that should be followed? For example, min/max length of tubing, different sized tubing ok/not ok, degree of angles...etc.

 

The reason I ask is I just got done installing mine, and it seemed to spike pretty hard the first time it went into boost. Since that time, it seems to be normal but I don't know as this is my first install. The gauge seems to be pretty jumpy, but that could be the quality of the gauge....megan racing.

 

Take a look at these pics and tell me if you see any problems or potential problems:

 

pic1

pic2

pic3

pic4

pic5

pic6

pic7

pic8

pic9

 

Also, after the tee, I go from vacuum tube to the nylon tube provided by the gauge.

 

Thanks for any input.

+1 ^^^^

 

I just installed the Apexi EL Mechanical boost gauge

- the "T" was small and so was the hose, luckily, my installer found a bigger T fit, but one side is very tight and other is just right (so 2 different size hoses)

 

- now (in Parked position, ya...I got the 5EAT) when I step on the throttle, the boost shoots up before the tach does??!!!...is this normal?

- when I "punch it" while the car is in motion, the needle almost reaches 1.0 bar but it is NOT a consistant hold, the needle FLICKERS really quick...is this normal or does the different size hoses have something to do with it?

 

thanks for any help too

 

(I'll take some pics later)

Looks good.... How did you mount the mounting plate in the cubby?

 

any possible way this could be a 2din

about the size of a single din inside, too much plastic moulding everywhere for the pocket, but the pocket size is just a little narrower than a single din opening

Hodgeee, when you cut the particle board for the mounting plate for the two gauges, did you take any dimensions? If so, could you post them or pictures, etc. The bottom of the cubby is bowing when I insert the gauges (they are 52mm).

 

It looks like your plate keeps everything square while fitting well.

 

I am at this point in my install and am trying to figure out how to make the plate. Any help would be appriciated!

 

PS - here is a picture of my setup thus far.....

Hodgeee, when you cut the particle board for the mounting plate for the two gauges, did you take any dimensions? If so, could you post them or pictures, etc. The bottom of the cubby is bowing when I insert the gauges (they are 52mm).

 

It looks like your plate keeps everything square while fitting well.

 

I am at this point in my install and am trying to figure out how to make the plate. Any help would be appriciated!

 

PS - here is a picture of my setup thus far.....

 

Is it just my perspective or are the gauge housings too large for the vertical spacing available in the cubby?

 

SBT

It is definately a little tight, Subietonic. Will probably have to open things up a little with a dremel. Just don't want to go grinding and cutting until I get a faceplate mocked up to make sure it will work.

mccorry,

 

Lookin' good.

 

Bro, where are you tapping your boost line from? Jedi's method, or the other? I'm wondering which one would give a more accurate reading.

 

Thanks!

 

-A

+1....

 

Where to tap your boost gauge to get more accurate reading?

 

This from Jedimaster:

http://premium.uploadit.org/cultofthejedi/boost-gauge-002.jpg

 

and this from AVO's instructions:

http://www.sevenphotos.com/avo_guides/data/boost_gauge_guide.data/size_2/_MG_5868.JPG

 

 

 

Thanks!

The closer to the manifold, the better, IMHO....