Key won't go in rear hatch lock

My key won't go in the hatch's lock cylinder. At all. Won't even start. Nope, instant denied. So what causes this? Do I need to replace the cylinder? Thankfully its stuck unlocked so I can still use the hatch, but I can't leave anything in it for fear of being jacked! TIA, fellers.

I've had locks freeze on me before, how cold is it?

I've had locks freeze on me before, how cold is it?

Regardless of temperature

Its done it since I got it in December. The key is pretty worn, I tried to have a copy made at ACE and they couldn't get it to work. But it doesn't even attempt to go in. Never seen that before...

have you used wd40 and shot it into the lock? Also have you gone from the backside of the lock as well, from the inside and see if you can even get it to turn?

have you used wd40 and shot it into the lock? Also have you gone from the backside of the lock as well, from the inside and see if you can even get it to turn?

I sprayed wd40 ON the lock, but not in it. Nothing will go in it. And I have not messed with it from the inside but I will try it now that you mention it.

remove the lock cylinder.

then either replace it or take it to a locksmith.

replacing is probably cheaper.

 

does the brighton have electric locks?

does the electric lock button on the door work?

No electric locks, John.

My suggestions:

1: get a new key made at the subaru dealer cut from vin number. These are the best keys you could have made and not that expensive. Dealer by me only charges $7 per key, but this can change with location. Also bring proof of ownership with you.

 

2: if this does still not work remove the lock cylinder and bring it to a locksmith if you would like to keep the same key for the whole car, if not you could buy a relacement cylinder for cheap.

 

3: if you are up to it try and fix the lock yourself, pull it out soak it in wd40 and also see if theres anything jammed in there.

I got the lock cylinder removed... Is it supposed to look this this?

I've got it soaking in a borax solution right now.

Well the borax solution didn't help. The key still won't budge the lock. I'll leave it soaking in wd40 overnight. I also discovered that my hatch won't open now...

I went through the same thing with my Legacy. My key would go in, mostly, but no luck on turning.

 

After soaking the lock cylinder, brush with a brass or plastic brush (old toothbrush). This will help work in WD and get rid of the road grime. Repeat and see if the lock frees up. Assuming no one has physically damaged the tumbler previously, I bet you'll get it to work.

Well the scrubbing and wd40 didn't help. Guess I'll just leave it alone for now.

Try soaking it in Coca Cola regular stuff The phosphoric acid gently dissolves corrosion from metals. Might get Lucky. Will take a few days

Mine looked the same. I used gun oil and a wire brush, also used a flat edge to scrape a lot of that buildup off. I also took my lock apart to dig the key tip out of the cylinder, after it snapped off one super cold night.

I've given up hope on getting this cylinder to work.

 

Now my hatch won't open.... I've studied the mechanism and can't tell what I'm missing. The handle moves the arm but the gold looking piece that actually holds it shut doesn't move. I can move it over manually with a screwdriver but it resets every time I shut the hatch again. Any suggestions?

There should be a plastic bracket on the latch mechanism that holds the arm in place. Is that plastic bracket broken? There are two bolts that hold the mechanism in place at the bottom of the hatch. If they're loose, then the hook won't work.

 

It honestly sounds like you might want to hit a junkyard up and take the works out of another Legacy, and mate it to your lock cylinder.

Sorry to resurrect this thread but I still can't figure out why the hatch won't open by the handle... I don't care about the lock, I just wanna be able to put stuff in the back of my Suby

 

Its like there's a piece somewhere I can't see thats keeping the hook from moving, but I can't identify any missing parts.

 

Any advice besides just replacing the entire hatch?

considering how much work you have done to this thing,

is there a chance the ''arm'' going to the lock cylinder is in the locked position?

 

i would go to a pull-a-part and get the whole mechanism,

and start over, cylinder and all.

some one with a parts car has one sitting around.

 

 

take pics as you pull it apart.

considering how much work you have done to this thing,

is there a chance the ''arm'' going to the lock cylinder is in the locked position?

 

i would go to a pull-a-part and get the whole mechanism,

and start over, cylinder and all.

some one with a parts car has one sitting around.

 

 

take pics as you pull it apart.

John, the lock cylinder is currently removed from the hatch. Everything else is still there. I've sat inside the hatch with the panel off and manipulated everything I could see but nothing I do would make the "hook" unlatch. The arm that is moved by the key turning the cylinder is still there but nothing changes when I move it. Hope I'm making some kind of sense...

i had a parts car with no key for the hatch.

so i tied a string to the ''arm'' from the cylinder and ran it up front to the front passenger? door.

when i pulled the string,

the hatch would unlock.

 

there is also a common situation where the hatch release handle outside,

the part your fingers press to release the hatch,

the handle will get stuck, partly pressed, it does not return home when you let go.

in this situation,

the lock cylinder arm will not fully operate, not move enough to unlock even if the key / cylinder works.

and therefore hatch release will not activate, to open the hatch.

 

the solution is to manually move the release handle outside back to the proper position,

then move the lock cylinder arm to the unlock position, toward the key cylinder i think,

then press the release handle outside.

 

its a long shot but try it.

release handle outside to proper position,

lock arm to unlock,

activate release handle outside.

 

if you get this to work,

replace the lock cylinder.

for a fee you can have a lock smith re-key it to your ignition key.

i had a parts car with no key for the hatch.

so i tied a string to the ''arm'' from the cylinder and ran it up front to the front passenger? door.

when i pulled the string,

the hatch would unlock.

 

there is also a common situation where the hatch release handle outside,

the part your fingers press to release the hatch,

the handle will get stuck, partly pressed, it does not return home when you let go.

in this situation,

the lock cylinder arm will not fully operate, not move enough to unlock even if the key / cylinder works.

and therefore hatch release will not activate, to open the hatch.

 

the solution is to manually move the release handle outside back to the proper position,

then move the lock cylinder arm to the unlock position, toward the key cylinder i think,

then press the release handle outside.

 

its a long shot but try it.

release handle outside to proper position,

lock arm to unlock,

activate release handle outside.

 

if you get this to work,

replace the lock cylinder.

for a fee you can have a lock smith re-key it to your ignition key.

 

Thanks John, I'll give that a try and report back here. On a somewhat related note you've just made me realize I'm missing a key. I thought the ignition key was for all the locks, since it works in the door. I couldn't get it to go in the hatch lock cylinder at all! The whole reason I took the cylinder out was to clean it thoroughly thinking thats why the key wouldn't go in!

The key is pretty worn, I tried to have a copy made at ACE and they couldn't get it to work..

I'd recommend going to a locksmith and getting a key cut. With your vin, they should be able to cut you a factory key. I know I'd be able to. Assuming you have legit locksmiths in your area, they will too. When it comes to keys and locks, I'd avoid the dealer because locksmiths can do the exact same thing at a much cheaper price.

I was in the back of the Suby today, taking some pictures of the mechanism and I think i found why my hatch wouldn't open. I've attached some pictures below. John, I think this is what you were trying to tell me to do! You're a genius and a savior sir. I kept thinking a piece was missing from the mechanism, not that everything was out of whack.

 

Also, my handle sticks so you have to push it back in to make the hatch catch shut but as long as it actually opens and closes again I'm happy!