Info on OB to GT suspension geometry. (Removing spacer)

Does it have to come from a gt wagon or the gt sedan parts are the same ?

 

ill be running the obxt stuff on my gt sedan.

 

i think the rear springs in the wagons are a little stiffer than the sedans.

if thats right, then im hoping that it'll help with the sag every car has

Im in the middle of doing this swap. I got the rear done and went to check out the transmission cross members. I have an automatic outback xt and i bought the cross members from a manual legacy b spec. As it turns out they are not the same. The automatic looks completely different. I need to know if anyone knows about the cross members on the automatics. I assume they are different but I cannot find any info on part numbers or anything.

 

I will continue looking but im hoping someone here can give me an answer. If worse comes to worse can I leave the rear how it is and finish it later you think? I dont want to have to reverse the work ive done so far.

Automatic Trans Crossmembers:

 

'05-'09 LGT 5AT - 41011AG02A

'05-'09 OBXT 5AT - 41011AG03A

 

Cushion Rubber is the same for both (41022AG10A).

Automatic Trans Crossmembers:

 

'05-'09 LGT 5AT - 41011AG02A

'05-'09 OBXT 5AT - 41011AG03A

 

Cushion Rubber is the same for both (41022AG10A).

 

Thank you so much! I found a site with part numbers in their exploded views but I couldnt find one with that piece in it. Now to find that cross member and have it speedy shipped here!

Ask this guy parting out an '05 AT LGT.

Ask this guy parting out an '05 AT LGT.

 

Wish I could. Im strapped for time so I had one over nighted to my local stealership. Was just under $90 total with next day delivery.

I still need all the obxt spacers/parts to lift this turd.

Pm sent to you rootbeer

 

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I still need all the obxt spacers/parts to lift this turd.

 

We can work that out.

 

 

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I've been in talks with "Scooby 2.5" for a while. Just waiting for him to pull his parts.

 

I'll let y'all know if I still need them.

I actually found a few (still damaged/totaled)salvage title outbacks near me that I might be able to grab cheap. And just use all I need from there.

 

Too bad for me they arent obxt's

I can still make the trade if you want to save the money.

 

 

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Reviving this old thread. For those who have changed OBXT to LGT suspension geometry (not so much the spacers or steering rack stuff, just the trailing arms, brackets, bumpstops, and rear UCA's), please comment on the change. We've already seen from the images that the LGT UCA's should provide more travel to the rear suspension. Can anyone confirm that this is an actual improvement?

Reviving this old thread. For those who have changed OBXT to LGT suspension geometry (not so much the spacers or steering rack stuff, just the trailing arms, brackets, bumpstops, and rear UCA's), please comment on the change. We've already seen from the images that the LGT UCA's should provide more travel to the rear suspension. Can anyone confirm that this is an actual improvement?

 

I am not really sure what you are looking for. Changing out bump stops and UCAs will give you more travel. If you don't like riding on the bump stops it's an improvement.

 

However, depending on how much you are lowered...it might not be a noticeable improvement.

 

I have Legacy UCAs and bump stops, I have more travel now.

 

Edit: I installed the Legacy bump stops when I lowered my car and the UCAs a few months ago. Day to day driving with an empty hatch I don't really notice an advantage.

 

Recently however, my rear springs don't seem to be up to the task (they are JDM Spec B wagon springs and I am replacing them with stiffer king springs).

 

If I had Pinks, I probably would not need to replace my rear springs.

Edited September 22, 2014 by Rhitter

I am not really sure what you are looking for. Changing out bump stops and UCAs will give you more travel. If you don't like riding on the bump stops it's an improvement.

 

However, depending on how much you are lowered...it might not be a noticeable improvement.

 

I have Legacy UCAs and bump stops, I have more travel now.

 

Edit: I installed the Legacy bump stops when I lowered my car and the UCAs a few months ago. Day to day driving with an empty hatch I don't really notice an advantage.

 

Recently however, my rear springs don't seem to be up to the task (they are JDM Spec B wagon springs and I am replacing them with stiffer king springs).

 

If I had Pinks, I probably would not need to replace my rear springs.

 

It seems like you understood me perfectly.

 

On CA roads, my OBXT did well, but with occasional bottoming out in the rear. Then I moved to DC/MD, where the roads are shiit. I bottom out all the time. Then my rear started sagging more. I've added a .5" spacer. I have less rear sag. That doesn't have much to do with the bottoming out. So I'm thinking about the trailing arms and rear UCA's. While reading through the post, no one really commented whether it had noticeably improved the ride. That's all.

 

Thanks.

 

Anyone else?

Made a huge difference in the ride quality! Sitting on the bump stops was not very comfortable.

Does anyone know if the trans mounts and driveshafts are different between a 06 2.5i auto (mine) and a 05 LGT sedan (donor)?

the drive shaft is different. the mounts are the same if it's auto to auto. or 5spd to 5spd.

Just to confirm: IF YOU ARE LOWERING YOUR OBXT ON LGT SUSPENSION, DO NO SKIMP OUT ON REAR UCA'S AND REAR TRAILING ARM BRACKETS.

 

Got mine back today from IAG. It is beautiful and breathtaking and lovely and I couldn't be happier. No more rear sag, no more bottoming out.

 

More details:

 

One

 

Two

Just to confirm: IF YOU ARE LOWERING YOUR OBXT ON LGT SUSPENSION, DO NO SKIMP OUT ON REAR UCA'S AND REAR TRAILING ARM BRACKETS.

 

Got mine back today from IAG. It is beautiful and breathtaking and lovely and I couldn't be happier. No more rear sag, no more bottoming out.

 

More details:

 

One

 

Two

 

Looking at the rear trailing arm brackets I am not sure what the difference is between the two.

 

Does it effect the geometry without raising the subframe?

It's actually gets the mounting location closer to the body and also re centers the wheel in the wheel well. Not a major differece but when lowered the wheel as a tendency of being pulled forward because where the mounting point are so even a modded bracket would be benificial.

So I did this swap a LONG time ago and noticed something weird that I have kinda forgot about until now.

 

When I did the swap and replaced the transmission cross member I noticed I had extra space between part 41020F and the cross member. This was on an 09 Outback XT I converted to legacy spec suspension. The nut 0238S*A was ran down as far as it would do onto the shoulder of the bolt.

http://parts.subaru.com/images/parts/subaru/fullsize/B13_41001239.png

I just did some research and found that the transmissions in the outback and legacy 2008 have the same part number but the 2009 outback has a different part number. Is Does anyone have any experience with this? I am worried that something is not right with my transmission mounting.

http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2008_Legacy25L-TURBO-5AT-4WD25GT-LIMITEDOUTBACKXT-WAGON/AUTOMATIC-TRANSMISSION-ASSEMBLY----------TG5D7CWEAA/49239582/31000AH210.html

http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2008_Outback25L-TURBO-5AT25XT-LIMITED/AUTOMATIC-TRANSMISSION-ASSEMBLY----------TG5D7CWEBA/49239583/31000AH220.html

Does the polarity of the right vs left upper control arm assembly come from the bushings or are the arms themselves different?

Not sure, check opposedforces.com for part numbers, see if they match.

Is there a difference between the automatic LGT transmission cross member and manual LGT transmission cross member?