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I've got an 05 lgt mt, looking to eventually get a catless up, catted down, and an AP. Problem is I have to get each piece one at a time due to financial restrictions. I was thinking AP first...since I can use it without the others. Thoughts?
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I agree about the up pipe first for safety reasons, but why would you go with a dp and then ap. I would say just save your money and get em all at once, you have to dissconnect the DP to get the UP off anyway, and you need a tune to make the DP work right. If you need to get one first, get an AP, that will at least give you a bit of bang for your buck while you save to get the exhaust hardware to install all at one time.
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i say go up first cuz u don't need to modify tuning

 

then i'd get a vag-com cable (for open source tuning) instead of AP. save you some money

A Vag-com cable cost 15 bucks on ebay/amazon. if u want to have more features and log without a laptop then a tactrix openPort 2.0 cable is 169.99

That's still WAY cheaper than an AP v1... once your maps are stable there is really no benefit to switching your maps out back to stock. and if u do need it (say for going to the dealer or whatever, then use your laptop to flash back the stock map again)

 

the OTS maps are much better for OpenSource tuning, search for MickeyD's Stage 1

MickeyD's stage 1 maps are more aggressive than AP's stage 1 map.

 

Now after you get that, then get dp.

A CNT catted downpipe is the best bang for your buck.

After u get the dp then talk to Infamous to get a tune for $150.

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I did the catless up first. mostly because i was having issues with the cat in that pipe, it would have gotten switched anyway eventually. did not need a tune but you will not to do the "resistor mod" if you have a EGT sensor

2006 Legacy GT 5EAT Perrin UP, SPT CAI, OBXR CBE, Catless DP, Perrin TMIC, Stage 2 AP tune

Soon after BNR 16G, Infamous Tune

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The resistor mod if cost about $1.25 from radio shack for a package of 5 each 2.2K ohm resistors.

 

You should buy the up/dp and install both at the same time. Along with removing the banjo filter.

 

If you buy a AP V1 make sure you don't pay to much for it. You can then trade it in for V2, Cobb has the form on thier web site.

 

V2 is much better.

 

Or if your good with a lap top buy the cables on go that way.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Again, what ColdBore said. Especially sing you are financially restricted. Buy can buy a used $15 VAGCOM cable to hook up to your computer. and between a $100-$200 opensource tune customized to your car.

 

Read the complete beginner to tuning guide the the Tuning Forum, that tell you everything you need to know about how to write maps on your ECU, and how to Log Data for revision. I'm a noob to all this stuff too, and I figured it out no problem.

 

Good call on at least doing the UP before anything. If you go with the Opensource tune route, which you should especially being financially restricted, BUY YOUR OPENSOURCE TUNE BEFORE INSTALLING STAGE 2 PARTS (days in advance). You will be given a stage 2 base map by your tuner that you will need to load on to your car. Most tuners take a couple of days to get back to you with this after you make your payment. Get familiar with the software you need to use (look the the tuner guide) before installing parts as well. You do not want to drive around with a new downpipe on your car without a proper tune.

 

Go to Infamous, they Opensource tune and provide the correct software (free) and VAGCOM cables that will work for you.

 

Hope this helps, I had a lot of support so I like to give it back! GL

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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Thanks for all the info guys. Would you say an UP and DP is doable in a day with standard garage tools?

 

Yes very doable. FYI - Just make sure to have a hand full of exhaust bolts ready, they are known to break when removing. I had 3 snap on me when I did it. Spray some penatrating oil on the bolts first to prevent some of the bolts from breaking.

My wife's balls are delicious.
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Also use anti-sieze compound on all the nut's and bolts when you back together.

 

Also my Invidia DP did not need the adaptor, it bolted directly to my oem mid pipe, may be a little more money, but one less piece to mess with and have leak...

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I needed an adapter for my Invida dp.

 

I think Cobb is the only one that doesn't need one because it tapers to 2.5.

 

 

Mine is catless, I wonder if that's the difference. I bought it. Aug 2010.

 

The flange has slotted bolt holes.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Mine was catless too, but the adapter makes for a smooth transition between the DP and the mid pipe with a tight seal between the two. There are slotted bolt holes on the flange, but that doesnt make 3" taper down to 2.5"
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