Jackal's 20g to 18g e85 Soap Opera

Id say if you put the car up on jackstands then turn various wheel combinations by hand you should feel any problems.

 

For example. Car in gear, you should be able to turn each of the rear wheels by hand and the opposite will spin the other way. The same in the front. Now if you get someone to help you turn wheels in pairs both rears, both front, both front with the park brake applied, all of the above both in gear and out of gear. In g rear with the park brake applied, you won' be able to turn both fronts in the same direction.

 

If something isn't right it should become obvious. Binding would make it very hard to turn, and breakages or disconnections will lead to a lack of torque transfer across the diff. Front and rear diffs are open, center is viscous coupling LSD.

Didn't get to finish the TGVs yesterday so that will be continuing today, but they seemed sticky and certainly didn't move freely. Has anyone been close enough to these things to know if that resistance is normal or should the open and close pretty freely?

With the motors attached or removed?

With the motors attached or removed?

 

Removed.

They should operate quite easily.

 

 

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Do you know how powerful the motors are? Obviously there is a level of resistance that the motors wouldn't be able to overcome but I don't know what that is. Would there be any way that the motors could still be putting out a 'good' open signal and the valves were possibly not fully open?

Sounds like you have found the culprit! So I guess tgv deletes should be considered a maintenance item as well...the list grows!

Sounds like you have found the culprit! So I guess tgv deletes should be considered a maintenance item as well...the list grows!

 

Definitely crossing my fingers on this. If time allows, I should be able to update (for better or worse) by tomorrow.

We are all praying for you, good luck!!!

Oh crap, I just read this whole thread, beginning to here! It was liking watching a drama-mystery series on Netflix and having no last episode with the resolution of all the drama!! ie: sub'd.

^^^LOL

 

There is a TSB for a seized TGV actuator. Not sure if that's your problem.

 

SB.02.02.13

Introduction

If coming across a seized actuator for the right hand side Tumble Generator Valve (TGV), a

revised actuator with an updated part number is now available.

A rubber cap has been added to block the air passage from any water intrusion, which could

lead to corrosion and seizing of the actuator. Please note, only the right-hand side TGV

actuator is affected.

Applicability

The actuator (new PN 14120AA051) cannot be disassembled on the following models and

would require replacement of the intake manifold. Please refer to Parts Catalogue for updated

part numbers.

 2007-2012MY Legacy GT (incl. 2007 – 2009MYOutback)

 2008-2012 Impreza WRX

 2007-2012 STI

 2009 – 2012 Forester XT

Warranty/ Claim Information

For vehicles within the Major Components Limited Warranty period, refer to Subaru Warranty

Wizard for claim submission information.

Okay friends, TGVs have been deleted. I am putting everything back together now and should be able to report back tomorrow at some point, likely afternoon.

Well, I took it for a spin this morning before work and of course I forget my AP so I didn't get a datalog to substantiate my feelings, but I don't think TGVs were the main issue . The car does feel more peppy and it is pulling harder than it did but still not like it used to. Boost is still hitting a bit over 21 PSI tapering to ~20 by redline and AFRs are holding at about 11.0 across the RPM band.

 

While I think it is extremely unlikely since the car is my DD and is parked in our garage every night, I want to rule out any blockage or restrictions in the exhaust so I will be tackling that next. As a refresher, I've got the Invidia catless DP and Borla with a 3" Vibrant resonator in the midpipe. Everything in that system is pass-through so I'm not expecting anything but with the exception of some of the drivetrain tricks that have been mentioned, I'm out of ideas.

 

Thus, the saga continues....

So this probably should have occurred to me sooner, but since I'm about out of e85, I'm going to refill with 93 and switch maps. Of course, the 93 tune is not as aggressive as my e85 tune, but with the way the car is performing right now, it should be pretty noticeable if the power is back.

So this probably should have occurred to me sooner, but since I'm about out of e85, I'm going to refill with 93 and switch maps. Of course, the 93 tune is not as aggressive as my e85 tune, but with the way the car is performing right now, it should be pretty noticeable if the power is back.

 

 

Friend of mine with a sti on e85 said he has noticed they have switched to the winter blend here and has noticed his car is running different. Can't remember if you tested that yet.

 

 

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I have been using an ethanol content tester and my last tank was still summer blend at ~83% ethanol content. Thanks for the thought though!

Have you considered doing a warm/hot engine compression test to confirm that you get higher compression numbers?

Have you considered doing a warm/hot engine compression test to confirm that you get higher compression numbers?

 

Thanks GT. I did and I will be. I just have to pick up the equipment again from my friend. I figured this would be one more thing I could test since I needed to fill up again anyway. I really am stumped though as I don't think the issue lies in the driveline and as of yet, it doesn't seem to be due to restricted airflow in either the inlet or the exhaust.

It would only take 15 minutes to put the car on a lift or jackstands and do some ruling-out. Seems like a small time investment compared with the work you've already done under the hood!

Drop the exhaust aft of the downpipe? Or just remove the center section?

Go the whole way and drop the midpipe.

 

 

Sent from a device using some software.

Yup, that was the plan.

 

Also, reflashing the 93 octane map didn't change anything. The car is pretty gutless so it's not a fuel or tune-related issue.

 

Will continue with the suggestions that have been mentioned thus far but if anyone things of anything else, please post!

I am pretty much all out of suggestions. Other than a giant dent in your exhaust somewhere I am unfortunately going back to GT's suggestion. Ensure you still have good compression.

Maybe you have an inner ear infection and cant feel acceleration anymore.

 

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Maybe you have an inner ear infection and cant feel acceleration anymore.

 

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I would tend to believe that but unfortunately, I found myself almost in awe of the sheer power exhibited by my current vehicle, a 2011 Taurus SE

 

In other news, I'm actually going to get a leakdown test performed. My tuner drove the car last night and his immediate observation was something I don't think I've noted on here before. The car has almost no power at idle and really requires some major throttle and boost to get up to speed. He did some datalogging and determined the OCVs for intake and exhaust cams were working properly. His thought was that it may be as simple as a valve lash adjustment. Of course there are much less pleasant causes that could be present as well, but we will start with the leakdown test and go from there.

 

Has anyone else performed a lash adjustment on the DOHC engine? I've found some threads on the SOHC. It doesn't seem that this is common or maybe it isn't even done for our engines?

Edited November 20, 2015 by jackal8788