Scooby2.5 Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 So i take it then as I can get legacy spec coilovers and be fine with an alignment? Yes, it will be low but yes. I chose to get the BC/BR coils with the outback specific cartridges. That way if you want to go up or down you can. Josh Nahum from Import Image can help you if you call him. I would just put the coils on and not mess with the Outback "lift" I am only doing it to get rid of all the spacers and have a bit more travel in the rear with the control arms that are shaped differently. I would NOT do part of the spacer removal as you will affect the transmission, driveshaft, rear diff alignment. The shifter and the cross member is not a problem at all with the coil overs as you are not changing the body lift, you are only changing the suspension ride height. If you remove the body lift spacers for example in the cross member you are actually moving the transmission up closer to the body tunnel. Totally different than the susupension at the corners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruisemobile2 Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Sounds good! Checking out the BC/BR coilovers, they look like a great deal! I was originally planning on going with the Tein Flex. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chromes Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Yes, it will be low but yes. I chose to get the BC/BR coils with the outback specific cartridges. That way if you want to go up or down you can. Josh Nahum from Import Image can help you if you call him. I would just put the coils on and not mess with the Outback "lift" I am only doing it to get rid of all the spacers and have a bit more travel in the rear with the control arms that are shaped differently. I would NOT do part of the spacer removal as you will affect the transmission, driveshaft, rear diff alignment. The shifter and the cross member is not a problem at all with the coil overs as you are not changing the body lift, you are only changing the suspension ride height. If you remove the body lift spacers for example in the cross member you are actually moving the transmission up closer to the body tunnel. Totally different than the susupension at the corners. So you are telling me i could juste lower my outback xt with legacy gt spec coil-overs get alignement and i'm done with it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 yes, you will be slightly higher due to the outback bodylift spacers. But the car will be fine. A lot of us are on a legacy GT suspension with the bodylift spacers still in. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chromes Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 yes, you will be slightly higher due to the outback bodylift spacers. But the car will be fine. A lot of us are on a legacy GT suspension with the bodylift spacers still in. cool thanks :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 I am only doing it to get rid of all the spacers and have a bit more travel in the rear with the control arms that are shaped differently. Scooby couldn't you just replace the UCA's to get more travel? From the pictures it looks like an inch or so. JDMG3 How does the car feel with the new steering rack around town and on the freeway? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 thread revival. great write up. i just want to do the reverse of everything you did "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 Scooby couldn't you just replace the UCA's to get more travel? From the pictures it looks like an inch or so. Yea I have thought about that it might work. Anyone tried this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 thread revival. great write up. i just want to do the reverse of everything you did I may soon have all the parts from an outback if you want to go up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 KC...shipping might suck a bit, but i need to looking what all ill need to change, i'd love to run some bigger tires "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 Just let me know if you decide to do it, Not sure when Ill get mine changed out but probably will be soon. Just hold on to my user name and PM me if you decide you want it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danteneon Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 (edited) Scooby couldn't you just replace the UCA's to get more travel? From the pictures it looks like an inch or so. Yea I have thought about that it might work. Anyone tried this? I have the specB upper arms on mine. Even with the stock OBK bumpers I have yet to bottom out the suspension. Edited August 19, 2013 by Danteneon typo I like to cook my pets and my family. Use commas. Don't be a psycho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted August 19, 2013 Moderators Share Posted August 19, 2013 I have the specB lower arms on mine. Even with the stock OBK bumpers I have yet to bottom out the suspension. ^different part than they are reffering to, I believe. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danteneon Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Ah, I thought they were referring to the stock bits. Ignore the Dante behind the curtain. I like to cook my pets and my family. Use commas. Don't be a psycho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted August 19, 2013 Moderators Share Posted August 19, 2013 Ah, I thought they were referring to the stock bits. Ignore the Dante behind the curtain. Just FYI, there are in fact spec.b rear upper control arms, but they are no different than stock LGT bits aside from being aluminum. LGT/spec.b rear UCAs do in fact differ quite a bit from OBXT rear UCAs (the latter being much bulkier and causing clearance issues with stock bumpstops on lowered cars. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danteneon Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Looking back, my post was a typo. I meant to type UCA. So yeah, more travel with those. I just went with the specB for the aluminum goodness. I like to cook my pets and my family. Use commas. Don't be a psycho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Dante so you just changed the UCA and nothing else with the spec B aluminum arm. What about the lowers? The other reason to do this is moving the transmission, engine cradle etc more tucked up under the car for better handling Also gets rid of that huge spacer where the front LCA mounts to the frame rail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danteneon Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 In the rear, I did the specB uppers (along with the specB shocks and LGT wagon springs of course) only. Everything else, including the jounce bumpers, is stock OBK. The front is all specB and spacers removed. I am trying an experiment though...I have removed the subframe spacers in the front only. I know, I know..."your sh*t is going to blow!" I don't think it will have any real effect on the drivetrain, but I'm willing to risk it and see what happens on the long haul. By keeping the spacers in the rear, I don't have the pronounced saggy butt others do when using specB front upper strut mounts. I like to cook my pets and my family. Use commas. Don't be a psycho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silentsnow31802 Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 Does the suspension need to be from a legacy gt wagon turbo or can it be a non turbo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danteneon Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 The parts can come from a Legacy sedan or wagon, any trim. The only thing that you want to get from the GT wagon would be the rear springs if you are going with stock-type struts. I like to cook my pets and my family. Use commas. Don't be a psycho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rester5350 Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 In the rear, I did the specB uppers (along with the specB shocks and LGT wagon springs of course) only. Everything else, including the jounce bumpers, is stock OBK. The front is all specB and spacers removed. I am trying an experiment though...I have removed the subframe spacers in the front only. I know, I know..."your sh*t is going to blow!" I don't think it will have any real effect on the drivetrain, but I'm willing to risk it and see what happens on the long haul. By keeping the spacers in the rear, I don't have the pronounced saggy butt others do when using specB front upper strut mounts. Wouldn't spacers be a much safer choice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTBeeR Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 (edited) waiting on a pm back about picking up OBXT suspension/brackets and . never mind, saw the pm after i posted this Edited October 12, 2013 by RooTBeeR i dont pay enogh attention "Build" Thread <--Link (OLD) '05 EJ255 now a '13 EJ257 Bottom End w/D25 heads (NEW) Forever Slow [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danteneon Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 Wouldn't spacers be a much safer choice? Safer? Maybe. But I want to see if the slight difference in subframe heights really makes a difference. the only thing that changes in the way I did my setup is the driveshaft angle, and if it doesn't present a long term problem it may give us more options when lowering these cars. Then again, I could just be crazy I like to cook my pets and my family. Use commas. Don't be a psycho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rester5350 Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 Just to be clear, I was referring to saggy butt spacers. Why not remove all of the subframe spacers and install saggy butts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danteneon Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 I figured that's what you meant. Because leaving the spacers in is free (as long as it doesn't damage anything) and saggy butts cost money. That, and truth be told, I really want to see what happens. I know, it sounds like quite the gamble, but I'm not worried. I like to cook my pets and my family. Use commas. Don't be a psycho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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