Need help replacing my 2008 LGT motor

I've decided to replace my 08 LGT Lim motor. I've never done anything like this and the guy who is doing the heavy lifting on this project has swapped/rebuilt 10 honda motors so he isn't well versed in Subaru.

 

This is the motor I plan on buying (Spec option)

http://pacificpowertraininc.com/subaru-engines/subaru-ej255/

 

this should work with all the sensors/computers in my car right? I just really need everything to go right.

 

Has anyone done this before and if so any tips, estimated time, any special tools, or should i pack it in and go to the subaru dealer ( quoted me 4500 for the motor and 1500-2000 for labor...i dont wanna do this.)

Why are you replacing it, exactly?

 

We can help point you in the right direction, we just need context.

I bought it a few weeks ago for 9 g's because of a motor noise, drove 10 miles and spun the rod bearing. It has 105*** miles and I figure it was the easier route.

I don't understand Lim motor ?

 

Just make sure your getting a EJ255 that is turboed, NA engine are different.

 

PM'ed you some vacation pic's.

You can rebuild it most likely with new bearings (will need to tear down and inspect).

 

Additionally, another option that may be cost-effective is to buy a brand new OEM EJ257 shortblock (sti), arp head studs, new oem head gaskets, new oem oil cooler, new timing kit and water pump, possibly new oil pump, and inspect and reuse your heads.

LIM being a part of the car title Max ( 2008 legacy gt limited)

 

if i go the build route with the 257, will i need a ecu reflash or anything else besides putting the parts together and putting them in

no reflash, simply has different shaped pistons.

 

and you will need the cam sprocket tools

 

all you would need is a 10, 12, and 14mm sockets.

And a good torque wrench, floor jack, jack stands, engine hoist, engine stand would help.

Oil, coolant, oil filters, assemble lube, drain pans, etc.

If, for any reason, you remove the plastic cam pulleys, REPLACE them. Too many people have had them explode after a rebuild to make it worth saving the $80 for them.

 

 

Q for forum: should the oil pickup tube get replaced as well?

and coolant. Make sure you have 2 oil filters and crush washers, as well as enough cheap oil to do an oil change as soon as the car is at operating temperature when you first fire it up

 

and cold beers.

 

 

Q for forum: should the oil pickup tube get replaced as well?

 

I did, i went with the Covert Performance one.

08, I would "not" think so. If you going to be pushing high HP the killer B is nice piece of mind, along with a new oil pump.

 

Q, Is the STi pump a higher volume pump ?

There is an STi pump that is higher flow, but this has been argued as to whether it is a good or bad thing. I think any OEM pump will give sufficient flow. I think quantity of oil is more important than how fast it flows through the system in these motors.

higher volume pump=greater quantity of oil

rate x flow = volume

Also a thicker impeller will push more oil.

I was more referring to the quantity of oil in the pan than the pump capacity (having oil is more important than flowing no oil ). The size of the pump has no bearing on volume of oil. Only flow capacity.

 

The STi pump is apparently 11mm and OEM is 10mm.

the more the better for these god damn bearings

^^ LOL. Let's dig up the 11qt oil in motor photos. Those damn bearings will be shown no mercy to the healing powers of 5w-30.

 

 

 

Annnddd we should prob get back on topic at some point. OP let us know the results of the teardown.

I'm talking about the pump, not the capacity

Okay, I just purchased a ej257 with forged pistons for $2150.

It should be here by the 28th

 

So i get everything at once for this option I need a

new head gasket

new oil cooler

water pump

timing belt

arp head studs

 

( should i look for these under ej257[part name] or.. )

 

thats it right? and if i need a oil pump i should go with a 12mm highflow?

forget new head gaskets, get an entire OEM engine gasket kit. Since you will be rebuilding the motor, why not have new gaskets everywhere. New water pump may not be necessary, depending on your mileage. I got new OEM head bolts instead of the ARP, I had a big discussion with my trusty subaru mechanic about the ARP studs needing a retorque after a heat cycle. We went back and forth so I just ended up going with the OEM ones. If you opt for the gates timing kit, it comes with a water pump.

 

As far as looking for EJ257[PN], thing from a 255 will fit as well. The only difference between a 257 and a 255 is the shape of the pistons.

 

BTW where did u get a 257 short block with forged pistons for 2150?? is it an 05 build?

I'm putting ARP head studs in for a headgasket job. Any information to back up the retorque procedure after a heat cycle? Want to make sure it's done right.

 

+1 on the gates "complete" timing kit. They are on sale now by several of the forum vendors.

 

+1 on where you got a good price for that shortblock with forged pistons. What brand pistons will be in it?

I'm putting ARP head studs in for a headgasket job. Any information to back up the retorque procedure after a heat cycle? Want to make sure it's done right.

 

Import Image told me no, my mechanic friend who is on here told me yes. I figured id rather be safe than sorry, so i went with OEM bolts. I mean, it makes sense- bolts heat up, torque is not the same anymore, your heads are under torqued. If a retorque is necessary, you pretty much have to do two engine builds

I'm also thinking your better off with OEM head bolts, unless your building a high boost race engine. Your'll be fine with OEM.

 

I also think its a good idea to get a OEM geasket set, couple of hundred bucks and you get everything.

+1 on the gasket set. I am working on my brother's engine and wish he had gotten the complete set since we'll be tearing into the engine a little bit more than just head gaskets. Now I'm worried the valve cover gaskets can't be reused.