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Koni Shock question


Pete1122

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I worked on mine today. If you're going to it yourself, make sure you have a good breaker bar or really high torque impact wrench to get the upper and lower strut bolts off. Those things were a pain even after soaking them with a ton of PB blaster. After getting the strut housing out and playing around with it a bunch, I figured out that I need a pass thru ratchet/socket for the nut on the top of the strut so that was the end of my fun for today. So I didn't really get very far so I'll have to try and find some time tomorrow. Also, I got the spring compressor tool from O'Reilly's through their tool loaner program. They require that you return it within 48 hours but I'm sure if you need it longer you can just take it back and then check it right back out for another 48 hours. Anyway, it doesn't seem like there's anything too scary about the job (granted, I'm not all that far in to it yet) but seems pretty doable. I had checked Solid Autoworks' website for their pricing and it shows they charge $199 for springs but I'm assuming that doesn't include the inserts so I'm guessing it would would be quite a bit more for the whole job. Even if it was only $199 total, that's still a bit more than I'd be willing to pay for the job so hopefully it will turn out ok doing it myself. Here's a pic of my mess with the strut housing out:

IMG_1200.thumb.jpg.f58d9b73835f574caa778f5dd59e45cd.jpg

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Fred Beans did an excellent writeup for the procedure - and really, it's a very easy job to do yourself. A couple of tools that REALLY helped me along:

 

 

 

- Digital caliper. Bought one from Harbor Freight for about $15.

 

- A set of pass-thru sockets from Lowe's (for tightening the upper strut nut... had one that wouldn't sit still even with the car's weight on it) for about $15.

 

- A pipe cutter. Also bought this from Lowe's... paid about $30 for it. Well worth the investment... the cut was clean, fast, and accurate. (Remember... measure twice, cut once.)

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Decided to have Solid Auto Works do the job along with some Whiteline LCA bushings and anti-lift kit. I should have everything done next week.

 

Paring my Cobb springs with the Koni struts should give me the ride I'm looking for.

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mind if i can get a ride/test drive nothing to wild just want to fill the stiffness.

 

Sure thing, it may be a week or so. Waiting for the parts to arrive then after the install I'll need an alignment and wheel balance.

 

I'll PM you when it gets wrapped up.

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your doing koni inserts legit if so i want a ride to see how they feel. same thing in anyone wants to give me a ride with kws or rce tarmac1s please.

 

You're always welcome to check out my KWs... The ride is amazing. Some people get the Tarmacs for the pillow-ball top hats, but we just put BC BRs (pillow-ball) on my girlfriend's Legacy and the KWs ride ten times better still. I'll never buy another coilover!

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I've had the koni/Cobb setup. You won't be disappointed. Just keep access to the rear dampening adjustment knobs free for a while to get your setup dialed in. Just switched to bc/br an they're not as terrible as I would have thought. If you've got a set of cobbs that have any rake in them I'd suggest putting some whitline etc. part in to adjust the camber in the rear.
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I've had the koni/Cobb setup. You won't be disappointed. Just keep access to the rear dampening adjustment knobs free for a while to get your setup dialed in. Just switched to bc/br an they're not as terrible as I would have thought. If you've got a set of cobbs that have any rake in them I'd suggest putting some whitline etc. part in to adjust the camber in the rear.

 

Good to hear! I am also having the Whiteline LCA bushing and Anti-Lift kit installed at the same time. That matched with the Cobb rear swaybar should be a nice set up.

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Good to hear! I am also having the Whiteline LCA bushing and Anti-Lift kit installed at the same time. That matched with the Cobb rear swaybar should be a nice set up.

 

You still may need to sort out something for camber in the rear- the anti lift kit and LCA bushings aren't going to solve the rear camber issue.

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Nah- when cars get 'raked' it tend to send the rear into

Positive camber land. Cobb springs (some) have the tendency to do that. It very well may not happen to the OP. it happened to me and another car I saw- just putting it out there.

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Nah- when cars get 'raked' it tend to send the rear into

Positive camber land. Cobb springs (some) have the tendency to do that. It very well may not happen to the OP. it happened to me and another car I saw- just putting it out there.

 

You are dead on, when I first had my Cobb springs installed on my stock struts and had an alignment I was running very slight positive camber that they could not correct.

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