BulletProof-TMIC Mod - LGT, 08+ WRX

Countersinking into material that thin is less than ideal. I've found metric BHCS to 80mm long, but only in plain steel. Stainless or Zinc plated would be preferred.

Wow...lol....people sure make this mod harder than it really is.....

^^ WOW? Just looking to make it better than it really is

There's always room for improvement, for everything. Isn't that why we are all here?

 

sorry, I thought some discusion would be productive. Thanks to seeeeya for the pioneering efforts -a very good idea and easy to execute as it stands.

 

 

 

BiggTDogg - you're right - counter sinking could be problematic in the relatively thin channel material. Even for (what I believe to be) a low force application like this.

 

Have you seen these binding barrels? what we called "sex-bolts" in the old skater days... this would leave a nice clean button head on top of the rail (10-24 or 1/4" thread)

http://www.mcmaster.com/#binding-posts/=g5xusu

GO TO "Medium duty" - in 316, 18-8 or zinc platted

 

then you can come from underneath with any style screw you'd like (sized or trimmed to terminate inside the barrel... such as

http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=g5xwnc

again, 316, 18-8, or zinc.

not sure what length is required, but the 10-24/ 18-8SS socket head goes to at least 4"

 

 

 

I'm leaning toward banding around the rails, which could also allow for rails on the short faces (side) of the IC. just a thought... not sure it would add any benefit.

 

anywho - - To each his own!

Edited February 9, 2012 by Farfrumwork

^^ WOW? Just looking to make it better than it really is

There's always room for improvement, for everything. Isn't that why we are all here?

 

sorry, I thought some discusion would be productive. Thanks to seeeeya for the pioneering efforts -a very good idea and easy to execute as it stands.

 

 

 

BiggTDogg - you're right - counter sinking could be problematic in the relatively thin channel material. Even for (what I believe to be) a low force application like this.

 

Have you seen these binding barrels? what we called "sex-bolts" in the old skater days... this would leave a nice clean button head on top of the rail (10-24 or 1/4" thread)

http://www.mcmaster.com/#binding-posts/=g5xusu

GO TO "Medium duty" - in 316, 18-8 or zinc platted

 

then you can come from underneath with any style screw you'd like (sized or trimmed to terminate inside the barrel... such as

http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=g5xwnc

again, 316, 18-8, or zinc.

not sure what length is required, but the 10-24/ 18-8SS socket head goes to at least 4"

 

 

 

I'm leaning toward banding around the rails, which could also allow for rails on the short faces (side) of the IC. just a thought... not sure it would add any benefit.

 

anywho - - To each his own!

 

As always, if you can make a BP TMIC Mod that works as well, but is cheaper, easier to make, and more aesthetically appealing... everyone would welcome it. It is called progress.

 

The key is... making it, providing photos and details. Talk doesn't count too much, unfortunately, or ideas long since exposed that address improvements in these areas would have long been implemented.

 

Good luck with your ideas.

BiggTDogg - you're right - counter sinking could be problematic in the relatively thin channel material. Even for (what I believe to be) a low force application like this.

 

Have you seen these binding barrels? what we called "sex-bolts" in the old skater days... this would leave a nice clean button head on top of the rail (10-24 or 1/4" thread)

http://www.mcmaster.com/#binding-posts/=g5xusu

GO TO "Medium duty" - in 316, 18-8 or zinc platted

 

Now you're thinking with your dipstick Jimmy!!

 

Wish I had thought of those before I hacked up my cover. No biggie, but yes, I think those would be the best way to go for a low profile mount.

I'm leaning toward banding around the rails, which could also allow for rails on the short faces (side) of the IC. just a thought... not sure it would add any benefit.

 

anywho - - To each his own!

 

If you put the bolt holes in the right locations, the bolts will hold in side rails as a "side" benefit

 

I already prototyped that with my own, similar design (done independently, possibly before/just after the BulletProof mod was invented). The bolts held the sides just fine..

As always, if you can make a BP TMIC Mod that works as well, but is cheaper, easier to make, and more aesthetically appealing... everyone would welcome it. It is called progress.

 

The key is... making it, providing photos and details. Talk doesn't count too much, unfortunately, or ideas long since exposed that address improvements in these areas would have long been implemented.

 

Good luck with your ideas.

 

Yes, progress.

Well it most likely will not be cheaper, but it is already a stupid cheap mod. If it goes from $15 to $30, I wouldn't consider that unacceptable. It may not be easier to make either, but it may just "fit" better and look better as well.

 

But who knows, I haven't even pulled the IC off yet . This car has only been mine for 4months (but I've had modified Legacy's for >10yrs now)

I will make something, and maybe I'll even submit it for your approval

 

It's not just "talk", it's idea generation. Even if all ideas are not good.

 

thanks for the well wishes!

Now you're thinking with your dipstick Jimmy!!

 

Wish I had thought of those before I hacked up my cover. No biggie, but yes, I think those would be the best way to go for a low profile mount.

 

yeah, they are cool. only an 1/8" head profile too! nice!

 

they could be purchased in bulk too....

^ Homebrew vendor? ^

 

Plenty of people PM him about it...

bumpity bump

bump from the dead, can someone pm the instructions, parts for this, I PM'd seeeya but no luck yet, thanks in advance

bump from the dead, can someone pm the instructions, parts for this, I PM'd seeeya but no luck yet, thanks in advance

 

I guess I'm confused... as you requested, via email, I returned an email with the instructions attached. You also emailed me later and quoted that very email, saying you hadn't seen this thread...

 

However, I have never received a PM from you... only that email, which is the medium through which the instructions must be transferred. I wondered how you came by my email address since I hadn't given it to you.

 

Either this is a BIG misunderstanding, or someone is playing with your emails.

^ got it, your email went to my junk folder so I didnt see it at first, thanks

I wondered how you came by my email address since I hadn't given it to you.

 

when you click on the username, you can send PM or send email

Bump for the people who don't know this is here, but need it.

Farfrumwork's metal zip-tie method (THE original metal zip-tied BPTMIC). No interference with BPV tube or engine cover.

 

~$30 total (with 3 SS ties and a bunch of AL channel left over...)

 

Nevermind the very-cool-but-now-gone heat shield... it came off on it's own in <1 week. Oh well, back to the drawing board there. The end tank must flex much more than I thought.

 

Those are stainless cable ties. 33" length, trimmed up after install. I have PN's and new channel dimensions I can add later in an edit (papers out in the car). I ran a ~.015" deep, 3/16" wide slot down the length of each rail to capture the SS tie.

 

The locking feature on the SS ties allows for some slack, so I had to tension and then "set" the ball (read, hit with a hammer to deform housing and lock in-place). You have to feed and form the SS tie around the rails to get a snug fit; it doesn't have to apply force to the rails, it just has to hold them on - any movement of the rails will only tighten the SS ties hold.

 

I did JB the rails to the IC, but that's not necessary or required, the ties will not fail (100lb load rated). If anything goes wrong in the future I will let everyone know. I'm not too proud to admit failure, but it doesn't happen too often (again, nevermind the heatshield )

 

 

I was going to mock up a binding post method as well, but ran out of motivation. I did come up with a design though, which would use 1 binding post and 1 screw per end (4 total)- which I think would be cleaner and fit better than the threaded rod/washer/acorn nuts. #8-32 binding posts have a 1/8" head profile!! I''l post some PN's for that in an update as well.

 

 

-Chad

OTS stg2 - protune ASAP!!

 

And they said, why overthink it?

Edited September 18, 2012 by Farfrumwork

Great thinking! Excellent work!

 

One more variation on a theme, another door opens.

 

Concept critical mass has been achieved.

Everyone who has ever done this mod should check in now and again to report on how they feel about their TMIC now.

Everyone who has ever done this mod should check in now and again to report on how they feel about their TMIC now.

 

Crapton more trackdays at 20psi. Holding like a champ. Nuff said!

Here is my variation on this Mod!

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/BradleyTLohman/BPTMIC2.jpg

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/BradleyTLohman/BPTMIC1-2.jpg

Edited April 23, 2012 by Blow

VERY clever! Turnbuckle... standard screws and improves top clearance, but may present a clearance issue at BOV Recirc Hose? Still, one more variation, one more new idea.

 

Most importantly, one more BulletProofed TMIC.

 

Bring on the power. Intercooler is ready.

Crapton more trackdays at 20psi. Holding like a champ. Nuff said!

 

That's what I'm talking about.

 

Here is my variation on this Mod!

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/BradleyTLohman/BPTMIC2.jpg

http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c37/BradleyTLohman/BPTMIC1.jpg

 

Hold on, let me get my binoculars

Man I am not very good at this photo stuff plus those were with my phone so I am going to blame the phone! Anyway I used screws on top and bottom and then screwed them into the tube thing. The first screws I got were to short so when I went back and got longer ones they were to long. So what I ended up doing is using a short one and then cut the long one a little to make them fit. The little trouble I did have was you have to get the tubes in the right spot or they bow out to much and you can't screw in the the screws. After test fitting the alum channel has been trimed down to be pretty close to the screws and at an angle to keep it away from the hoses. I do like the band idea posted earlier, can those be removed without having to get new ones?

^^ nope, banding would need to be re-installed.

Don't know why one would remove them, but you'd have 3 left over bands from the 5-pack if you wished to do so.

 

 

and yes, I still need to post PN's and whatnot. I have 1 PM to respond to as well.

 

will get to it, just busy at work... gotta make the moneys