Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

5EAT Ask your Questions!?!


Recommended Posts

^ yea a lot of people dont understand how the torque converter works.

 

Come to complete stop. And go full throttle in auto mode does it go ?

 

Then Use manual mode and go full throttle in each gear.

 

If a gear is slipping it will shoot to revlimiter.

 

Usually the gear chanhes get mushy before full on slipping

 

At a complete stop it goes through all gears but once it once it hits into 5th gear it will get past 3000 Rpms then it will surge all the way to the limiter. It does the same in full auto and manual mode.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dip stick is possibly bent in a way that its out of the oil. But its odd the auto trans mission the dipstick goes pretty much strait in .

 

In auto trans its better lower oil level then over full.

 

As it has pump and sucks from the bottom and that oil is pressure fed throught the trans.

 

To low oil you would gear the trans pump cavatate ( wining noise )

 

Thanks for the reply. The dipstick isnt bent at all.

 

thank you for the advise too. is it ok if it was a little bit over full mark?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With engine on, the fluid is moving in a way where the fluid rides up on one side and gets pulled down on the the other side of the. Your supposed the take the average of both sides but it really wouldn't vary more than like a 5mm between the readings of highs sides.

 

Thanks for your reply. so this is normal in all our 5EATs? difference on both side of dipstick readings?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At a complete stop it goes through all gears but once it once it hits into 5th gear it will get past 3000 Rpms then it will surge all the way to the limiter. It does the same in full auto and manual mode.

 

if it shoots to rev limiter then your 5th gear is slipping.

 

try to only go to 5th gear when you're in high speeds (70mph+) as to not over load the transmission. but, to be honest, you either have to rebuild 5th or get a new trans

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if it shoots to rev limiter then your 5th gear is slipping.

 

try to only go to 5th gear when you're in high speeds (70mph+) as to not over load the transmission. but, to be honest, you either have to rebuild 5th or get a new trans

 

Darn it. I was hopping I was missing something else but I know its going to need to be done.

 

Thanks for the reply

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I am getting a pretty loud metal on metal sounding clunk noise when the car shifts from second to first when I'm slowing to a stop. I have the upgraded valve body installed with about 1500 to 2000 miles on it. Is this a bushing problem or gearing slamming into each other?

 

Sent from my C6916 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In an auto trans there is no gears coming in and out of mesh,

 

It could be your trans mount is rotten and with the harsh engine breakingg the trans is moving and there may be metal on metal contact somewhere

Now that's thinking out of the boxer!:lol:

fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In an auto trans there is no gears coming in and out of mesh,

 

It could be your trans mount is rotten and with the harsh engine breakingg the trans is moving and there may be metal on metal contact somewhere

I'll have a look at the transmission mounts. Thank you for this. I asked in the valve body upgrade thread when I had the valve body installed if there were bushings I had to keep an eye out for and nobody seemed to have an answer for me.

 

Sent from my C6916 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

 

two questions :

 

#1 when I'm close to a stop for example ( in manual mode ) i have a shake when I downshift ( 3>2 or 2>1 ) even if I'm around 1000 rpms and a little lower rpms too but if I wait the auto downshift ( in manual mode ) I have no shake so is it normal to have a shake in manual mode and I have to use the auto downshift or is it a sign of ATF need to be changed ?

 

#2 when I'm in SPORT if I turn on CRUISE the SPORT logo disappear but the gear shifts seems different than D ( looks similar to SPORT ) and I can see the number of the gear used like MANUAL; have you ever note this ?

there is no indication in the owner manual ...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you are in Sport or Manual mode, the line pressure is bumped up, which will make shifting stiffer. That might be the answer you are looking for. Yes, a bump may mean that the fluid needs to be changed (lost viscosity), and you don't feel it in Drive mode because it is masked by the softer downshifts.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

in DRIVE I'm wondering if the gearbox is in neutral during the "latest downshifts" ( 2>1 and maybe 3>2 ) because I'm lower than 1000 rpms and don't feel there is an engine brake

 

If I'm wrong do you mean there two levels of shifting one stiff ( SPORT and DRIVE ) and another very smooth ?

Does the Torque Converter produce these levels and how ? a TC is sealed and have no electric or hydrolic parts inside if I'm not wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my 5EAT shifts hard from 2 to 3.........onlythats the only shift thats pretty rough..........

 

wat is the problem?

 

wat can i do?

 

Is this when you first start your car, when the transmission isnt warmed up?

Myn used to do this when the car was cold but would go away when it ran for a bit.

I bought an auto be more involved in my uninvolvedness . 200k+ Club

If you can't blind them with brilliance, baffle them with bullshit.

My high mileage turd.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pic of 5 eat dipstick

 

Realy shouldnt matter witch direction you stick the dipstick in .

As the full value is still inside the tube .

image.thumb.jpg.1e8f9ad263b45ea5fe557cdc97fe1a2f.jpg

Now that's thinking out of the boxer!:lol:

fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
How much power and torque can the tranny handle? Assume at the wheels on a mustang dyno please

 

 

We're at 403whp and 50kgm SAE on a Dynapack on our 2013 5EAT BR9. Tuning Requested Torque and Calculated Torque are crucial here, as is adequate fluid cooling.

 

 

Sent from a device using some software.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use