I Donated bucko3the7man Posted August 3, 2015 I Donated Share Posted August 3, 2015 Do you have someone to hold pressure on the breaker bar while you hit it with a BFH? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drogos Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 so I have everythign apart ....hub bolts are out but hub won't budge.....PB blasted the shit out of it. Hub bolts are back in and now trying tap it out but little hesitant ....not sure how much beating it can take before I mess up threads on those bolts ...not exactly best access to 2 of them so hitting with equal force is not easy either Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 Time to bring the heat. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
just_phil Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 so I have everythign apart ....hub bolts are out but hub won't budge.....PB blasted the shit out of it. Hub bolts are back in and now trying tap it out but little hesitant ....not sure how much beating it can take before I mess up threads on those bolts ...not exactly best access to 2 of them so hitting with equal force is not easy either I've done both of my rears. On one side I screwed the bolts in half way and hit them with a brass punch, one the other side I used the same punch directly on the hub from behind. You have to hit quite a few times, and you have to re-position the punch after a few hits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 Can you put the rotor on inside out and get more leverage by hitting it using a wood 2x4 ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artard Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 anyone try these? "AM-91638625" (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Wheel-Hub-Bearing-Pair-Set-for-05-11-Legacy-Outback-/311392435992?hash=item48806f7f18:g:WFkAAOSwjVVVkWsb&vxp=mtr). They're supposedly a direct fit to the oem 28373AG01A wheel bearings. Or these? "92-00569 AN" (pair 92-90021 2H) (http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAIR-NEW-FRONT-LEFT-RIGHT-WHEEL-HUB-BEARING-ASSEMBLY-FOR-SUBARU-LEGACY-OUTBACK-/301109099650?hash=item461b803c82:g:FA4AAOSwfcVUKvKu&vxp=mtr) tried searching these part numbers through the forums, but didnt catch anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artard Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 nvm, found some threads talking about these. was just discussed w/o the part#s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 29, 2015 Share Posted October 29, 2015 anyone try these? "AM-91638625" (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Wheel-Hub-Bearing-Pair-Set-for-05-11-Legacy-Outback-/311392435992?hash=item48806f7f18:g:WFkAAOSwjVVVkWsb&vxp=mtr). They're supposedly a direct fit to the oem 28373AG01A wheel bearings. Or these? "92-00569 AN" (pair 92-90021 2H) (http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAIR-NEW-FRONT-LEFT-RIGHT-WHEEL-HUB-BEARING-ASSEMBLY-FOR-SUBARU-LEGACY-OUTBACK-/301109099650?hash=item461b803c82:g:FA4AAOSwfcVUKvKu&vxp=mtr) tried searching these part numbers through the forums, but didnt catch anything. nvm, found some threads talking about these. was just discussed w/o the part#s I'm just saying...why take the risk of it not working. We know the Timkens work. They are just a few dollars more. Granted you can replace one if you have to in under 30 minutes, but why take the chance. See post 162 here, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238p5.html 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artard Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 (edited) I'm just saying...why take the risk of it not working. We know the Timkens work. They are just a few dollars more. Granted you can replace one if you have to in under 30 minutes, but why take the chance. See post 162 here, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238p5.html i got a pair of front ones from detroit axle for $67, gonna play the lottery and try em... Decided that getting those am-autoparts were probably not gonna end well. Timken ones I found were at least $80 each. Edited October 31, 2015 by artard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxBLOOD88SHOTxx Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 I have Detroit Axles on both fronts, only 2k on them though. I bought Timkens for the rear but haven't installed them yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artard Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 I have Detroit Axles on both fronts, only 2k on them though. I bought Timkens for the rear but haven't installed them yet. straight forward install? any issues so far? thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxBLOOD88SHOTxx Posted November 1, 2015 Share Posted November 1, 2015 No issues with them so far. Pretty straightforward install I can probably do them in 30mins now. Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artard Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 it's been a couple of weeks since DA hubs were put on my fronts. so far so good. Got them on ebay for a good price. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-of-2-NEW-Front-Driver-and-Passenger-Wheel-Hub-and-Bearing-Assembly-w-ABS-/160563687214?hash=item2562576f2e:g:vO8AAOSwq7JTz6Gk&vxp=mtr Now, to wait till a rear pair is priced similarly... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xAgyex Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 (edited) derffred, thank you for posting this. I actually used your post here to help me replace my front driver HBA yesterday. Thanks a bunch. TIP: Get slide hammer to pull out the HBA if it is stuck or rusted over. PB Blaster is your best friend. ***Fix for: 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited 2.5 Turbo front wheel bearing*** Purchased: 1. Genuine Subaru Front Wheel Hub and Bearing Assembly for 2005-2013 Legacy and Outback - $180.24 [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008XLICYO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00]Amazon.com: Genuine Subaru Front Wheel Hub and Bearing Assembly for 2005-2013 Legacy and Outback: Automotive[/ame] 2. Subaru 902170049 Axle Nut - $7.64 [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Subaru-902170049-Axle-Nut/dp/B00I7996N8/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=07ABR9TN857M6SBMJ8G8]Amazon.com: Subaru 902170049 Axle Nut: Automotive[/ame] Edited November 23, 2015 by xAgyex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgould7 Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 Getting ready to knock this repair out this weekend (bad front driver side pretty sure). Have a friend that has a wide assortment of tools to help get this thing off. I got my torch ready if need be. Car is from N/E. New York exactly. What a pain right? Question though before I order. Gonna get the Timken + nut off amazon. Should I just order two and do the passenger side too while it's fresh in my mind? I know the driver side is bad (sound goes away when I turn left) but it's gotta be dragging too right? 104 k on the car. Thanks for the help guys. This forum was a life saver when I did the timing belt in June. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 At least have the other one, it will need to be replaced sooner or later. PB Blaster is your best friend, let it do its job. Put anti-seize compound on all the threads going back together. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgould7 Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Fml. This is already turning into a pain in the ass. So my damn axle is stuck in that hub. Hit it with a weak hammer chisel, nothing. Used a little two pound sledge and a chisel in the pit on the axle. Been smacking it pretty good nothing. Guess I go get a slide hammer and hub puller and go to town. The video I watch on YouTube... The dude just pushed that axle back into the tranny with ease. Some one lend some mind here? PB blaster soaking on a pizza break right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TiagoSantos Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Yeah, mine was frozen solid in there too. When I did mine, it was too late to go buy a hub puller, so I had to fab something up.. I used a plate of aluminum (1/8 or 3/16" steel would have been better), drilled three holes to go over the studs (had to countersink them to have enough clearance.. argh). Then drilled and tapped a 1/2"-13 hole in the middle - bolted the plate to the hub with the three lug nuts, then threaded a long 1/2" bolt and pushed the axle out. Worked perfectly, and only took an hour and a half to make........ GRRRRR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dgould7 Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Just to update since I didn't see anything about it on here. Ended up going to Sears and bought a 7 ton two jaw gear puller (50 bucks). Really cranked on that thing. Hit it with my propane torch for a while first. 700 degrees is the target temperature when you're doing tha stuff. Don't know if I was over or under. But it broke free. Cleaning rust up and slapping the new one on tonight.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shik Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 (edited) Sorry if I overlooked the info, but what are the differences between the two different Timken numbers? : HA590315 http://www.rockauto.com/info/118/HA590315-A.jpg HA590118 http://www.rockauto.com/info/118/HA590118-A.jpg Both listed for the Legacy GT. Edited December 29, 2015 by Shik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iaacek Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Yesterday I did both front wheel bearings on my 2008 Legacy 2.5i. I used TIMKEN HA590315. The car is my daily driver in Alberta and everything had some rust on it. On my first try I did use WD-40, 24" breaker bar and 30" cheater pipe = the breaker bar snapped. Yesterday I borrowed my neighbors impact gun, boughts 32mm impact socket at Napa and used liquid wrench penetrating oil after reading this: http://forum.miata.net/vb/archive/index.php/t-453091.html, the axle nut was down in 10s, I was so happy. The hub was frozen on the knuckle. Chisel and hammer for 15 minutes fixed that. I've put anti-sieze on all mating surfaces and assembled everything back together. Torqued to spec (162lb-ft), tested on the road and works great. Noise is gone (passenger side had the bad one), cruise control works, no abs light. I am very happy with the timken bearing quality, it was made in US, looked exactly the same as the oem one and everything was tight and smooth. Rear ones will be next =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Sorry if I overlooked the info, but what are the differences between the two different Timken numbers? : HA590315 http://www.rockauto.com/info/118/HA590315-A.jpg HA590118 http://www.rockauto.com/info/118/HA590118-A.jpg Both listed for the Legacy GT. One is for the front the other is for the rear. they are different. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iaacek Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 That is actually not true. HA590315 and HA590118 are both front bearings (HA590119 is the rear one). I don't remember where I read it but the HA590118 is the older design. HA590315 has less material on the hub and more on the flange. On my 2008 (2.5i though) the OEM one looked exactly like the HA590315. I just looked on rockauto.com and for GT (05 and 08) they only list HA590315 for front and HA590119 for rear. I would go with HA590315. You can always take the front wheel and rotor off and check what you have there now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 I seem to recall the flanges are different front to rear. I recall them looking like those in the picture when I replaced mine. I also remember telling the parts guy at the dealership he gave me the wrong one just by looking at it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iaacek Posted February 26, 2016 Share Posted February 26, 2016 Yes, they are different. They differ in the hole layout, this is a picture of the rear one, HA5900119: http://www.rockauto.com/info/118/HA590119-A__ra_p.jpg The holes are evenly spaced on both sides. On the front ones, on one side the holes are further apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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