Stuck during speaker installation :(

So I've got my speaker set, tweeters fit fine after removing the plastic pins which is great. But I can't figure out how to go about mounting the speakers?

 

I've removed the old speaker which is all one piece (As you can see my destruction attempt):

http://iforce.co.nz/i/nlhpkj2u.zhk.jpg

 

But when sitting the new speaker in place while it fits there obviously is no predrilled way to screw it in:

http://iforce.co.nz/i/ziukxxpi.trm.jpg

 

Did you guys drill your door out to suit holding the new speaker, use some sort of adapter or get a spacer?

 

Any help is appreciated

I always used #8, 1/2" wafer head stingers with a #2 phillips. (they are very sharp self-piercing screws) Using a cordless drill with a #2 phillips bit you just drive them into the sheet metal. For the ones on the rear deck I would use the same screws but would use a "Skewdriver" (right angle driver) attachment to the drill/driver setup.

"He is talking about self tapping screws like I was"

 

Stingers are a little different than self-tapping screws in that their design does not remove any metal. Stingers pierce it with their sharpness as opposed to removing material with a drill bit on it's tip. I quit using self-tapping screws after discovering they had a tendency to loosen over time, since their threads had little to hold on to.

[ATTACH]Stinger

[ATTACH]Self-Tapping

[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]

Yeah I know what self tapping screws are lol except all the ones I have are stainless steel and are square 2's.

 

I made decent progress last night, despite having to run out and grab a screw box from my old work lol had enough time to finish one door off completely and that includes doing the fur pads!

 

Speakers in the door, I did remove and reinstall over the plastic sheet if anyone is wondering. This was my test to see how well it held and sat but i'm pleased with it.

http://iforce.co.nz/i/ti4mx4qm.ia0.jpg

 

The tweeter was a tight fit but it does fit and sounds so much better than the stock tweeter.

 

Here's a picture of the freq splitter that came with the speaker kits, not too large but not exactly small either

http://iforce.co.nz/i/pmf0kmmb.aa5.jpg

 

If anyone is wondering what I did wiring wise, what I did was used a kebab stick to feed a single wire through the door jam hose (which involved some rage) and then I moused the actual cables through using that one so all cables are hidden away. The factory door speaker cables I have left untouched, I did the cable soldering on the other side of the plug in cabin so it's all tidy and easily reversed.

 

I hid the splitter just by the passenger feet area where the cables from the door connect inside, there was enough space in there to hold the splitter easily and I wrapped the splitter in a cut up tshirt to stop the rattle. I had to laugh at the OEM sponge that was squeezed into the space, I wonder if it has a part number

http://iforce.co.nz/i/avksuf2w.i13.jpg

 

After getting this sorted I decided while the door was apart to change the fur on the window pads as mine has just started getting to that scratchy stage. All of my doors only have 4 pads instead of the 5 in the tutorial thread so jdm must be different >_<

 

Most of the old pads in the door were solid or furless lol:

http://iforce.co.nz/i/p4xt52ml.uuq.jpg

 

After glueing up the new pads and giving the a hair cut as the faux fur I got was far too long fur wise lol:

http://iforce.co.nz/i/qnqrz2pi.nel.jpg

 

And door back together xD:

http://iforce.co.nz/i/j5qjmw2m.bud.jpg

 

3 doors to go! The rears will be a challenge as I have 0 idea how the rear tweeters are wiring and where the wires for them go seems to be a mystery >_> might leave that one for the weekend

Oh man, Justin Bieber is going to sound soooo good in your leggy now.

Oh man, Justin Bieber is going to sound soooo good in your leggy now.

 

Haha bastard

 

Second door done, was an... interesting experience. I see my wiring has been tampered with truly. Theres a clear thin box wired in, part goes to a switch and part has a cut wire. It has a screw switch that goes from 1-5. No clue what it is or if its apart of my crap alarm or not lol will throw up some pics tomorrow.

 

I had completely forgotten that every damn wire in the car met right infront of where I wanted to put freq filter, but I damn well got it in there and that bastards never coming out hahaha

 

I took a quick look at the rear tweeters and looks like it's going to be a right pain in my backside to try and change those over ;___________;

 

Having fun though

 

Also, the driver side window pads were all worn down to the plastic, glad I caught that lol

Haha bastard

 

Second door done, was an... interesting experience. I see my wiring has been tampered with truly. Theres a clear thin box wired in, part goes to a switch and part has a cut wire. It has a screw switch that goes from 1-5. No clue what it is or if its apart of my crap alarm or not lol will throw up some pics tomorrow.

 

I had completely forgotten that every damn wire in the car met right infront of where I wanted to put freq filter, but I damn well got it in there and that bastards never coming out hahaha

 

I took a quick look at the rear tweeters and looks like it's going to be a right pain in my backside to try and change those over ;___________;

 

Having fun though

 

Also, the driver side window pads were all worn down to the plastic, glad I caught that lol

 

If it's part of the alarm system sounds like a shock sensor. My old BMW had a cheap alarm with a componet just as you discribed. Except mine had a little light in it that lit up when shocks were detected.

On a hunch before I went to sleep last night I did look up the uniden shock and glass sensor and you're absolutely right, it is a sensor

Job's all finished!

 

The rear door speakers were quite rooted, no wonder they sounded like they were farting:

http://iforce.co.nz/i/jpwfbqw5.nqf.jpg

The rear door holes are slightly smaller than the fronts, a 6 inch rear speaker would have fit much better than the 6.5 inch for future reference.

 

Old speaker out, moused the new speaker cable through using my trusty old cat5 and a kebab stick again ;D

http://iforce.co.nz/i/wwg3x1ix.p0i.jpg

The rear door jam hoses were far FAR easier to mouse cables through, not such a tight fit ;D

 

Got the rear splitter installed and soldered up to the rear left output :>

http://iforce.co.nz/i/s55ihnqy.jym.jpg

 

Since my speakers were slightly too big for the rear door holes I decided to use the plastic bracket from the stock speakers as a spacer to make them easier to mount, I cut the tabs off of the back and then glued to the speaker mount:

http://iforce.co.nz/i/a3nz0inl.drb.jpg

 

With the seat belt base unbolted (top bolt 10mm bottom 14mm, just hung it around instead on unplugging) I could slide the splitter box up above where the seatbelt base sits, I made sure that it was stuck in a way that it would not touch the seatbelt itself just in case.

http://iforce.co.nz/i/rx2yrkwx.nox.jpg

It only went up to the middle space which has a cover over it which was more than enough. The tweeter cable run down to the carpet as I would soon discover the nightmare subaru had bestowed upon me.

 

I made a mistake, a mistake that I normally wouldn't. This mistake was going in to do something with the predetermined idea that it must have been done this way:

http://iforce.co.nz/i/v4u5ivwl.onk.jpg

This is the set of cables that runs down the left hand side of the car to the boot space, which is where I though the rear left tweeter cable must run. WROOOONG. Instead I cut a pair of cables that I thought must be the right cables due to their thickness and the colours I was expecting not being in the bunch at all, small zap to myself later I was soon to learn that I was an idiot. I did get some gel filled special cable bridging tab things off of a friend that works in telco that fixed it up, huge thanks to him as he also loaned me this amazing tool:

http://iforce.co.nz/i/ppjerg1e.qdz.jpg

With this you attach the red pair onto cables and use the left hand wand to follow the signal to trace the cable. I chucked it on the tweeter cable to discover that.... the rear left tweeter cable ran down with the right hand side of the boots cabling

http://iforce.co.nz/i/2avl3cwr.jb2.jpg

 

The rear left and rear right tweeter cabling:

http://iforce.co.nz/i/ow40kgro.rtj.jpg

I'm holding the rear right, rear left is under my middle finger. I ran the rear lefts cabling under the the carpet (thanks to the suggestion from telco friend xD) back to the left rear splitter. How I did this part was cut the direct output to the rear left and rear right and re soldered to feed directly from the splitters as intended.

 

Onto the tweeter replacement now, trim removed (two screws, rest is clips.) Screwed the tweeter on that way so that it would hold still while I soldered the cable up:

http://iforce.co.nz/i/vkkovdrc.3f4.jpg

 

The tweeter had to sit on the same angle as the trim to fit, flat like the original and there was no show of that fitting in. Rear left and right installed now:

http://iforce.co.nz/i/kqfl5mea.g3k.jpg

 

The covers fit over the tweeters JUST although forgot to get a photo lol

 

Either way the setup sounds really really great, really happy with the result

That's a lot of work you did there! Did you replace the sub under the driver's seat?

That's a lot of work you did there! Did you replace the sub under the driver's seat?

Thanks xD was definitely worth it! I didn't know that you could even get one for our generation until someone here posted a pic lol never seen it before in NZ

 

Although I am looking at this for an under seat solution:

http://www.hyper.co.nz/drive/audio/bass-packs/SOUNDSTREAM-SUB-8-INCH-ACTIVE-USB-8A-BUILT-IN-AMP/id/13322/product

 

I'd rather not have the sub visible in the boot >_>