driver's side door lock doesn't work with power lock button

The drivers side door lock on my 97LGT does not do anything when I lock/unlock the doors using the interior power lock switch. Is this normal, or is there an issue with the lock accuator? I can still lock/unlock the door manually with the button on the inner door handle and from outside with the key.

 

If it's relevant, I think this car had keyless at one point. when I got the car the module was found in the trunk(not connected) and there was a broken fob under the drivers seat.

i have had a car , 98 obw with this symptom. i associated it with the missing remote start unit.

 

some wiring is altered when remote entry is added to a car. when it is then removed the ''lock'' button on the drivers door does not lock the driver door.

 

i would be temped to reinstall the unit from the trunk. chances are they removed when the remote failed. the systems can be problematic if you do not have a remote. especially when you install a new battery.

 

i would reinstall the unoit and get a new remote, ~$30 on ebay. chances are pretty good that the unit works and that all will be fine .

 

the unit had 1 0r 2 wire connectors that hook it up. both are used if you have an alarm horn under the hood on the passenger strut tower. or only one if you just have remote entry.

 

good luck.

Thanks. A couple questions:

 

1. The keyless module is just plug and play? Would I need to program a new remote, if so, how?

 

2. Is there a work around to make the lock work with the power lock button any other way?

1. The keyless module is just plug and play? Would I need to program a new remote, if so, how?

all keyfob remotes have to be programmed to the unit to operate.

 

see link.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html

 

2. Is there a work around to make the lock work with the power lock button any other way?

just a guess, but if you restore the original wiring under the dash then the door lock button should lock the driver door. but my guess finding the correct wiring diagram and restoring it is going to be more work than reinstalling the entry unit.

 

of course the remote entry unit could be bad, but i don't remember anyone replacing one because it was bad. lots of complaints about ''help, i just replaced my battery and my lights are going bonkers....''

I figured wiring it back in might be easier, but when I looked under my dash I can't quite see where its supposed to be mounted and where the harnesses might be. I was looking for the programing button as a reference point, and I can't find a harness with anything that looks like that attatched to it.

Before trying to wire in the module that you found in your trunk, I would check the lock motor and see what's happening there.

 

Pull your door panel and locate two wires that control the lock motor. They should be light green and red w/ a green stripe and you should find them running together at the rear of the door, leading to the actuator. Grab your multimeter (go buy one if you don't have one already, they are essential if you are doing any of your own wiring) and make sure that both wires rest at ground. If they don't rest at ground, you have a wiring issue somewhere else in the car. If they do, let's move on.

 

Plug your door lock switch back in and check your lock wire, the light green one. It should switch to 12V when you press the lock button. Now try the unlock wire, it's the red with green stripe. It should switch to 12V when you press the unlock button.

 

You now should have the info you need to determine if it is a wiring issue or a bad door lock actuator. If both wires rest at ground a switch to 12V when pressing the respective button, you have a bad actuator. If one of the wires doesn't do what it is supposed to do, you have a wiring issue somewhere in the vehicle and you are in for a real treat.

it sounds more like that car wasnt wired for remote and the PO tried to add it in, finding there was no actuator for the drivers door. my car is the same, the lock by the handle is all manual for the driver door but triggers the actuators on the other doors and the hatch. if i go remote ill have to add in an actuator for the driver door. not a huge deal, most shops should charge about 50-60 bucks to add one in.

1998 Legacy GT Wagon.

Drivers door lock switch does nothing. Keyfob works as does the passenger door lock switch. Stock wireless entry. After market radio.

 

Tested switch - it is good.

Works on passenger side and passenger sides doesnt work on drivers side.

I tried to look at the connections to the remote entry controller and also the timer box. They all look AOK.

 

So has anyone ever actually FIXED this issue?