kingtaco Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 I spent quite some time searchbaring this topic so please forgive me if its been posted a million times. I have the typical serious rust action going on with my rear fenders. I did a little bondo action and it lasted for about a year but the rust is really bad again. This time I want to do it right, cut out the rusted metal, and weld in a new piece. I know you can buy the pieces to weld in but I cant seem to find what im looking for online. The piece im referring to is in this video at about 1:15 [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rQhG6dyX_AI]Proper automotive rust repair - YouTube[/ame] ALso, I dont own any welding equipment so what am I gonna need to buy in order to do this project successfully? Thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiyo1990 Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 That is one of the spots I am waiting to go out on me. I would suggest getting the piece, and if you know anyone in a body shop have then seam weld it back in for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 That's a quarter panel sectioned for the dog leg, he must know somebody if he got that for 50 bucks, the full quarter panel is around $400, look up LKQ on the internet, they may have links to get new aftermarket quarter panels for half of what am oem part costs, but be warned about aftermarket bodyparts, they may not have the perfect fit up or the lines might not match completely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 To do auto body rust repair you'll need a good wire feed MIG welder. Preferably a Miller Hobart or Lincoln mig but I have a Northern Tool 135 mig and she does the job great. Reason being is the adjustability of the voltage. With thin sheet metal its very easy to burn right through what your trying to weld. Also when your installing the patch panel work around the panel with spot welds don't try to lay down a full bead, you will burn through. Basically you need a welder, weldable primer, seam sealer and cutting and shaping tools and the very important spot weld bit. This allows you to cut out the factory spot welds as well as create new ones. You could try your local junk yards for panels if no rust free ones can be found the aftermarket quarters will work just find but some finesse might be needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PorkchopSandwiches Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 To kind of hijack this thread - what can be done to prevent that spot from getting rusty? My car is completely rust free but I noticed there was a lot of dirt and sand packed in part of a front fender and figured there are other parts that could potentially have corrosive materials behind them. I don't live near salt water or drive on salted roads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underground Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 POR 15 is a great thing for rust prevention and stopping rust that has started. I just tackled the rear 1/4 panel rust on my wagon a few weeks back. I used that on the bare metal, then patched it. Did that juuust in case there was any slight rust left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 Yes por 15 is great. But rust never sleeps! I sandblasted my rust spots before treating them. For the most part the rust has been kept at bay. But the salty Utah roads have helped the rust come back in my rear wheel well. Eventually I'll have to weld on a new section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 To prevent rust in our rear quarters here's what I suggest. Keep those rubber mouldings but when take them off four times a year and clean them and the lip. Crap does build up in there so cleaning the area will help tons. When people remove those rubber mouldings they will get rust unless they seal the lip where the quarter and wheel wells meet. From the factory they don't do a good job using seam sealer and painting the lip. So when you remove the rubbers its open to the elements. On my old 96 L my quarters were rust free when I first bought it and like a dummy I took off the rubber mouldings and sure shit a little over a year, or two winters in WI, I started to get rust on the lip and by the time I sold the car 3 years after I removed the rubbers I had rust on the quarter panel about a 2" surface area. This is the same on Honda's, if you remove or don't take them off to clean them and the area you will get rust. I detailed my 99 LGT three weeks ago and when I took off the mouldings there was a lot of crap bring there. Cleaned it up and I'll be good for another 2-3 month's. Once trusts starts there's no stopping it without welding in fresh metal. No chemical or steps will stop it just slow it down. Por-15 is a really great product but shouldn't be used to stop rust, it's mainly for bare metal and preventing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dead Mr. Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 Cut it out and flare it! Thats what I did... Build Thread to my 3.0R Build Thread to my Super Crazy MR2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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